Hi All,

Doing a bit of work on my sons HQ ute. It has a Red 202 with manual throttle linkage (not cable) with a standard Stromberg carbie. I noticed that between the pedal and the carbie there is only one spring return (at the carbie). Years ago on karts we used to have two, one at the pedal and at the carbie.

Is this normal that a single frail little spring returns the pedal and linkages - or are we missing one somewhere at the pedal ?

Thanks for the help

Matt

Have a problem with my HX Premier, The brake light on the dash is always lit up, have checked the master brake cylinder for leaks and none found, the brake fluid level is at full, i have also changed the brake light switch on the brake pedal. But still the brake light remains on. Need help with this problem

thanx
Simjan

hi guys im having a weird isse with my 179. when im at the lights its like the motor is pulling, trying to go.. my foots on the brakes but it trys to jump. any ideas? for some reason i think it might be transmisson related. its a column shift trimatic.

cheers.

Hi i am new to the site and couldnt find the bit where you can find answers to questions that have already been asked, so sorry if this is a repeat. the brakes on my HJ are playing up. everytime i hold the brake pedal down whether the car is running or not after about 2 minutes it goes to the floor and i lose my brakes untill i take my foot off the pedal and then repeat step one.

I checked the nipples and lines for leaks, to my limited experience it seems good

I bled the brakes

checked the suction hose (or whatever that hose is called)

still the same problem. if you have any ideas please let me know, as this is my daily driver and i dont like the thought of dodgy brakes.

Tool Score for the week. Timing Light and Compression tester.

G day All!
I've got a problem with the steering in my car at low revs say parking or going round the corner the car will make a 'grrrr nawwwww grrrrr' noise. Now the belt is tight, and the pump is less than a year old. The rack is about 5 years old now. But I can't see any noticeable leaks. However I did notice that the fluid was a bit low... Say 150mls. But it seems to have tiny air bubbles in it. So... Is that the problem air? How do you bleed the air out of it? Also a general question in the steering racks, after 5 years do they just fail? Like a seal goes in them? I was told that every 5 years a guy I know would have to replace his whole rack. You could set your watch to it so to speak. Is there any truth to that?

Any help would be greatly appreciated,

Cheers guys

Hi... I've got a VK 308 with a power steering squeal that won't go away. It has a brand new power steering pump on with Gilmer drives and the belt's been replaced a couple of times. A bit of belt grip seems to do the trick for a while, but when you're going towards full lock the squeal is back after a week or so. This is driving me crazy! Should I get a shorter belt and clean the pulleys with metho? I'm pretty sure the alignment is fine.

Also... There's a strange knocking/rattle type noise from somewhere at the front (i think) of the car that only seems to happen on deceleration and braking. When i've got my foot on the gas it's fine. Any ideas? U-joint?

Had a problem last night where the wife was trying to come home from work and her headlights wouldn't work. Then they did work, then they didn't work. I got her to follow me home and I watched as her headlights went out then came back on and stayed on the rest of the way home. I thought it was the dimmer switch so this morning I turned them on (working) turned them off and put a brand new dimmer switch in, now they aren't working at all, unless I hold the dimmer switch on. I know this is an issue I've had before with cars and I'll be damned if I can remember what the issue was.

So I accidently hit a pothole on the way home from work this avo.. Only a little one but when I drove up the driveway I hear a big clunk. I had a quick look underneath and noticed the shock is dangling loosely below the wishbone!!!! I didnt investigate much more cos it was pissing down rain but I'll be havin a good tinker tomorrow. It looks like the 2 bolts that go through the lower mounting pin have either snapped or loosened off. Anyone know the size of these 2 bolts? Or any advice if ya think I've got it wrong?

Hi 5 years ago I built my trimatic up and manualised it all that upgrade stuff it started leaking oil when it was parked overnight out of the torque converter seal so I just resealed the outer seals of the box but it still leaks oil out of the front torque converter seal when I had it out I checked the shaft of the torque converter no bad wear marks, did my oil level when the car was hot after running through the gears when the car is turned off the level gets really really high I also noticed when I mount my torque converter to the flywheel it has to be pulled out a fair way to mount would that be a problem?

Well, a thorough search of all posts regarding ball joints and tie rods has left me in great doubt. Did we ever decide / agree on which brand were worthy of our money? We're talking a stock HR front end here, no lowerage, disc brakes, bags, low profile tyres, 93-inch rims, nothing.

What I'm chasing is for folks to say "yes Matt, you handsome devil. I use this brand of balljoint. Purchase, install and be happy with your larger-than-average penis size."

What's not going to help anyone are any of the following:

"BJ54 and BJ55 are the best, but they've been unobtainable since 1883"
"I bought 400 NOS balljoints in 1976, that's all I use, and no you can't have any"
"WASP are really crappy but they used to be good, but they're not now but they were"

Hey everyone, havin a couple of problems with my brakes and clutch in the HG. Brakes are working really well all the time but every now and then, after I push the brakes on, the pedal stays in for a while before it eventually springs back out. Tricky sometimes when I'm using them on and off, sometimes I have to sneak my foot under the pedal and pull it back out just to take off without the brakes on.
The other thing is the clutch, same deal it seems to be working fine, no problems changing gears etc but the pedal is pretty much pushing into the floor when you use it. Any way of tightening it up a bit or something. Any advice or links to past posts would be appreciated.

The wifes VN has orto trans issues, it will lurch forwards a coupla inches on a cold start... in park. At takeoff it will wind out to 2500-3000rpm in first (light throttle) and goes into 2nd quite harshly, and I think it's getting worse. Any clues as to what might be the problem? I serviced it bout 2 years ago, new filter and oil but no difference. Series 1 3.8, Calais (Aussie model).
Cheers heaps for any useful info before a tranny expert bulldusts me.

Please help me with my car. It's blowing No28 fuse (engine fuse) when it starts and runs for a couple of minutes, then blows it again. I have recently replaced alternator, starter motor, coil pack and am out of ideas.

Having a problem with my HG's steering column. The steering shaft is pulling in and out of the steering column and the only thing that is keeping it from yanking all the way out is the coupling that connects to the steering box.

Is there meant to be something that stops the bearing in the top of the switch assembly from being able to pull out???

Hello, so after owning a few different old holdens in my time (25)haha my latest fixer upper is a HG wagon.
MY question is..
WHat should i do?? stock as a rock 186/trimatic: coul it be gearbox? seems to slip when goin around corners occasionally under accelaration.. also doesnt seem to like reverse very much as it jumps/hops on the slightest incline and under a touch of pedal. very embarrssing out front of cafe with girls laughing.. could it be the box ie reverse clutch or uni's or diff?
Also..

Any one have any deep dish stock rims to suit my wagon? want to go low and fat stance. rat rod styles... white walls mexican blankets.. ye budddyyy...

Lowering?? whats the best bet? new springs? reset old ones? someone mentioned flipping rear leafs? is that doable???

Hi Folks, I cannot figure this out. Have a HZ 6 cyl Kingswood owned it pass 6 years or so, never had any problems with the factory power steering. A mounting bolt broke of in the pump behind the pulley ,in the meanwhile I put another pump on it, (Didn't work I assumed the spare pump was u/s) had a local mechanic fix the original pump , (refitted this pump back, on same thing, I assumed, from being knocked around on the vice, it was u/s)
Purchased a reconditioned power steering pump, now better, but seems to be working intermittently, steering goes from easy to hard off and on all the time.
Fluid Level is correct
Belt tension is correct, its not slipping/squealing.
Tyre pressure is 32 psi.
No leaks anywhere, including power steering box.

Hey guys, Im having a bit of a head scratching exercise with my 9 inch in my HK Prem. Now where the fill point use to be at the rear of the diff the fill point has been welded up. Now I still have the breather tube at the top of the diff but my question is how do I know when I have enough in it? Is it ok to fill it nilly to the top of the breather pipe? Or should I just guestimate how much to put in there?
Thanks

Hey guys,

just wondering who here has rebuilt the door hinges with the rare spare hinge kit (pin & bushes)?

I've removed the pins on one of my hinges and the bushes are brass - whereas the replacement ones are plastic (I think -havn't ordered them yet)

Also, anyone know how the bonnet hinges bolt - as far as washer etc.? I just used washers and the bolt kept tightening themselves when I opened and shut the bonnet....

Any help appreciated. Thanks

Anyone got some detailed info on exactly how the horn is set up and works inside the steering column? I've tampered with it a few times and it runs for a little while but it just keeps stopping eventually.