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tips on repairing the worst section of rust i have found in my car so far

Hi

Took some photos of my bad rust spot im not sure how to approach it i dont want to really take the whole front bit off the car (i know it has a name but i forgets)

I just bit lost as to how i should proceed with out using bog to repair it especially being a race car it needs to be strong

Also does anyone know if this is structural part of the car

Any tips that anyone can share especially those who have repaired this section before would be great help

Cheeers
Mark

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hi mate it is a pin on front or k frmae as it looks like a k,these are detachable on all models hk ht hg, broughams and monaros included,they come in single and double headlight..
un attach it by taking the 5 or 6 bolts on the firewall of each side then throw a jack under to use the weight of the car and pump it up to break it away from the wall,come back down and throw a bolt either side so u can then safely be under the car so it wont fold on u..
after this is done jack up and get under you will see two bolts either side (4 all up) that are usually a pain to get out thats why you do the first step to try loosen them mainly..these bolts are stepped so only go in how they come out..
get them out and undo the bolts you reattached on the firewall and it all comes apart..i just did this to my hg pano as it was the only thing rusty,i paid 400 for a near perfect front pin on..these models go here alot and is not uncommon see an old holden specialist...yours is rotted i would not repair as its structural and should be strong..hope this can be understood as i type slower than i think..pete

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Hi Mark, I wouldn't bog that up ! Can you weld ? Even if you can it would probably easier to change the whole subframe (that's what there called) and quicker than fabricating up patch panels ? I don't know how dear HT ones are but you can pick up HQ-WB ones from $20-$300 ? Depends how lucky you are, cheers and good luck Glenn

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That will need to come off IMHO, for blasting and repairs. You will need to do it properly.Maybe leave it on for the repairs that are away from the subframe mounting cups to minimise heat distortion. The other side OK? Also, make sure the legs arent carrying any fat BOGGY BITS, as they usually rust there first.

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She was just a whiskey maker, but I loved her still.

[http://gallery.oldho...|toybox]

Yeah right sides perfect seems to be only the left side i knew it had little rust there when i took the idler arm off just didn't realize it went that far up

luckily the legs are good as well its just that one section which is why i would rather fix it

i want to avoid removing it if possible due to lack of space

Whats the round bit with bolt in it

Cheers
Mark

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As I said above they are the mounting cups. Including the bolts in those there should be 5 bolts each side to undo, then also a small slotted screw which tells you when everythings aligned right it will go in.
Yeah thanks for the rear view mirror off EBAY too mate, I hope I left FB as was super busy at the time and dont allow ebay reminders to my email.

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She was just a whiskey maker, but I loved her still.

[http://gallery.oldho...|toybox]

Lol my eyes reed it but the old brain didn't absorb it

Glad you got it i got no idea about feedback as long as it says 100% im happy

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some repro "ears" welded to a decent in other areas subframe before, but never asked the guy where he got them, damn it. But they are out there....

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She was just a whiskey maker, but I loved her still.

[http://gallery.oldho...|toybox]

Mark, firstly run the sander/wire brush/grinder over the area to see just how good or bad it is, then from there it is a simple process of cut out the bad bits and weld back in some good metal of the same thickness.

Try to keep the outer edges of the sub frame as it is and just replace the inner area, that way you keep the original shape.

You may have to unspot the inner guards to get easier access but if you want it done right, them's the breaks.

It's not major but it is time consuming.

You will need to support the car carefully so you do not get any movement when you are cutting and welding, also take measurements before and after, because, as you would know being a boiley/fabricator, steel moves with heat from the welding process.

It is often wise to weld braces in place to stop movement.

These can be removed when the work is finished.

You know how to weld, the rest is easy.

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Yeah welding is the easy bit for me luckily

cool it dont sound to hard i think its one of those things that looks harder than it really is but as its my first cut weld and repair job i think i got little spooked

Car is still sitting on all four wheels so might leave it like that and brace it etc and see what its like after wire wheel and cutting disc

wish i found it before painting the engine bay oh well good excuse to paint whole car i guess maybe budget flat black seems to go good on track cars lately

Cheers

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I think you will find that once you have removed the Y frames, there will be more rust on the firewall recess, trying to weld it on the car is useless as they are packed with sealer between the Y feames and the body and it will contaminate your welds,melting the sealer with smoke and dripping flaming sealer everywhere. Have a look on the inside of the car, where the bolts go thrugh and you will see a big reinforcing channel, these are usually very pitted or rusted right through in such situations.
If you come and see me ill show you some photos of one we did here a while back, Im literally a stone throw from you, on Hogarth Rd.
Cheers
Adam
Resto Rod Race
0411 431 405

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Assumtion is the mother of all stuff ups.

I think you will find that once you have removed the Y frames, there will be more rust on the firewall recess, trying to weld it on the car is useless as they are packed with sealer between the Y feames and the body and it will contaminate your welds,melting the sealer with smoke and dripping flaming sealer everywhere. Have a look on the inside of the car, where the bolts go thrugh and you will see a big reinforcing channel, these are usually very pitted or rusted right through in such situations.
If you come and see me ill show you some photos of one we did here a while back, Im literally a stone throw from you, on Hogarth Rd.
Cheers
Adam
Resto Rod Race
0411 431 405

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Assumtion is the mother of all stuff ups.

i agree. pull the front clip off it. my sons hg monaro we did as a father son project 10 years or so ago was in the same area. everything was good. no visible rust from the outside with the guards removed. we puled the dash and glovebox out of it and saw small amounts of bubbly rust. we pulled the subframe and we were shocked at the rust repairs required. save you time and money. pull the subframe. kel

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have seen those pretty rusted, hope they are OK b4 you spend coin on the ears?

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She was just a whiskey maker, but I loved her still.

[http://gallery.oldho...|toybox]

Go see Adam mate, worx close enough ay? you will see what needs to be done to your car.It has to come apart.
some here will say there could be another way, but there isnt
'.

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She was just a whiskey maker, but I loved her still.

[http://gallery.oldho...|toybox]

yeah i will go see him i checked all behind dash and wire wheeled it and checked metal thickness and metals 2.5mm thick still and no surface rust or flacks when i took paint off
paint was still shiny under dash in that corner area even floor pans pretty good i checked all that before i started today as well

but at the end of the day its just race car and i will just do what i can as i said taken front clip off not an option for me

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