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Can someone please provide me with the torque setting for correct pinion preload on my 10 bolt salisbury diff? I've googled a lot but can't come up with any figure for this.
do you mean the rotating preload, as opposed to a torque setting for the pinion nut? Are you rebuilding the diff or just reinstalling the yoke?
You may know this but pinion bearing preload is technically measured using a spring scale like the ones you weight fish with. Its attached to the pinion yoke and you measure the tension needed to rotate the yoke. I've never rebuilt a 10 bolt, just heaps of borg warners, but I imagine there's a setting for this out there.
Most people in the trade just do the nut up a bit at a time and go by how tight it feels to turn the yoke (without the centre carrier fitted to the diff). Its the sort of wisdom that just gets handed down from mechanic to apprentice as to how tight the tension should be, but the ideal is just tight enough that the bearings feel under a reasonable amount of tension, not sloppy as they get loose when the bearings wear in, and not too tight like the guys in the Borg Warner factory seemed to do when they make 'em for Commodores and Falcons.
Hope that enlightens you in some way!
I've ripped it all out as my seals are shot all round so i'm going to change bearings while i'm there(may aswell).
I'm meaning the rotating preload, i thought perhaps there is a torque setting for the nut that would give desired rotating preload?
This is the first time i'm attempting this, so wasn't aware of the spring scale you mentioned but it makes a lot of sense now.
Thanks a lot for the help Dave,
At least now i know what i need to know- What is the tension setting for the spring scale for correct rotating preload :)
Another thing to consider is the crush tube that sits between the pinion bearings. The reason you cant just torque up the nut to a specified setting is because you're supposed to replace, shim up or stretch in a 20 ton press this tube during rebuild. As you tighten the nut it crushes this tube which takes the play out of the bearings. The torque to crush the tube is hundreds of ft/lbs, conpared to 20 or so INCH/lbs for the bearing rolling resistance!
You cant just use the old crush tube as it was when it came out. I prefer to stretch the old tubes rather than replace as the new ones are pretty long and take a bit of doing up. Some have to be replaced as they're too short to stretch but I've never seen a 10 bolt one so I cant comment.
This page has some good info about preload for pinion bearings. I'm not sure if the 10 bolt in a Firebird is the same, but good for general info.
There used to be a diff and trans place just across from the Sandringham Hotel (Great Eastern Hwy?). If the housing is out of the car you could even take the whole thing there and get them to set the preload for you if you have any doubts.
Dave 0412 777 546
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