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Idler arm/ pitman arm thingy

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Hey guys

After reading up on old holdens biting the dust because of there ball joints crapping out, I decided to go have a look at the ute.

Lucky for me, I found all the ball joints to be nice and tight with no movement.

Than I found freeplay in the passenger front wheel, It is able to turn side to side slightly. I narrowed it down to object A having movement where it connects to object B (Idler arm??)

To correct this do I need to replace Object A or B.
Is it difficult to crack them apart? I seem to recall seeing them done with a big fork sort of thing.

Also please feel free to educate me as to what their bloody names are ;)

Regards

Comments

is your idler arm. Item B is the idler arm support and it is this that you need to replace. The industry part number is SX1132. It is an easy home mechanic job..No special tools needed as the NUT that works as the pivot point is easily screwed into the idler arm with a large spanner.

Here's the current ebay listings. Interestingly you will see that everyone calls the support bracket the "idler arm" when it is not. The idler arm, item A, in your pic is not generally replaced unless it is damaged in an accident

http://shop.ebay.com...

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Just remember to only screw it in about ½ way (assuming it is the same as an HQ).

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Qute's Shed

If you have slop in the pivot point close to the body and marked B then the idler arm bush is stuffed. Wriggle the left wheel left and right and the idler arm marked A will jiggle up and down before the wheel begins to move causin slop. The idler arm bush comes with the body mounting bracket B and the bush "nut". Ideally removing the idler arm off the steering link you then unscrew the old mounting bracket(b) then unscrew the nut out of the idler arm. Screw the new idler arm bush nut into the idler arm and refit to the steering link. Screw the new idler mounting bracket into the nut then back it off 1 turn. then bolt it to the chassis and test turn. The thread in the nut is the swivel point and needs 1 thread of turn to pivot. Hope that makes sense and give it a grease often.
Bad news is if the steering link pivot joint that the end of the idler arm (a)fits to is sloppy you have to replace the whole "drag link". The drag link goes from one side to the other and connects both inner tie rods to the rest. The idler arm won't tighten sloppy steering but will save in tyre wear and improve handling.

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There are 2 parts to fixing this:

1. The Idler Bracket.
2. The Idler Bush.

The Bush is a Left Hand Thread fitted into the Idler Arm (A) and the Idler Bracket (B) is a Right Hand Thread.

It's done that way so they don't undo each other.

First loosen the Idler Bush (where A and B intersect), but don't remove it as yet. It will be quite tight. Let the weight of the Car and other elements make the loosening job easier by holding things in place for you.

Loosen and remove the 2 Bolts that hold the Idler Bracket to the Chassis. The Idler Bracket will then unscrew easily.

Remove the Bush from the Idler Arm.

Fit the new Idler Bush to the Idler Arm all the way in but don't fully tighten it as yet.

Fit the Bracket to the Idler Bush, as Qute says only about half-way. It must be able to freely rotate in either direction from Steering Wheel Centre. You'll know you have it right when the Track Rod is parallel to the Bumper Bar with the Steering Wheel centred.

Bolt the Bracket to the Chassis and tighten the Bolts and Nuts.

Tighten the Idler Bush in the Idler Arm.

Move the Steering Wheel to centre, make sure the Track Rod is parallel to the Bumper, then turn to Right Full-Lock. Make sure the Idler Arm hasn't run out of Thread or fallen off the Bracket.

Move the Steering Wheel to centre, make sure the Track Rod is parallel to the Bumper, then turn to Left Full-Lock. Make sure the Idler Arm hasn't run out of Thread or fallen off the Bracket.

Grease the Nipple in the Idler Arm Bush. You're done.

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T

My Shed

Holdenpaedia, they're the brakes Mate.

Got my new Idler arm today

Upon removing the Nuts that hold Item B (Idler Bracket) to the chassis, The threads stripped out inside the chassis!?!?

What on earth am I suppose to do now?? Being my daily I now have no soarce of getting to work tommorrow...

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If it starts knocking.... Turn the stereo UP!!
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My Shed

I think you will find they are bolts going thru the chassis rail, and if you get a socket the right size(9/16 or 5/8 " from memory) and hold the bolt steady, they will undo. just dont drop them inside the rail. the nuts are shake proof, crimped type, and will be tight going on and off. please tell us where you drive around and give a vehicle description so that I can get myself and my kids out of the way when I see you coming. i understand cash may be an issue, but FFS when it comes to brakes, steering and suspension, if you are not sure, take it to someone who is.

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If your project doesn't work, look for the part you didn't think was important.

One should forgive one's enemies, but not before they are hanged

mckackie

They are bolts as I ended up finding. Only reason I attempted it was because as posted above, Its easy. Only reason I didnt have a clue about it being bolted on was because I couldnt see. Have you ever tried sticking your head under a similar car with a GTS spoiler while its sitting on the ground?
As for me, Id be more concerned about driving towards a car that cant stay in a straight line.

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If it starts knocking.... Turn the stereo UP!!
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My Shed

I didn't need to sound narcky, but in the 23 years I spent on the spanners in a big city, I have just about seen everything by way of epic fails in DIY car repairs. Many a fond memory of fixing pharque ups of some of these weekend warriors, so please forgive my abruptness. yeah I,ve had to work under similar duress spots many a time too. Hope ya got it right, anyway.

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If your project doesn't work, look for the part you didn't think was important.

One should forgive one's enemies, but not before they are hanged

mckackie

Just think how confused you'd be if you didn't know the Bush had a left hand thread.
The Bracket Nuts are recessed as stated. If you were working the other side I'd warn you about the Lower Steering Box Bolt that dissolves and advise you to source a spare one before you start the job.
Always feel free to post up (as you have) if you get stuck on something.
So many of us have been there that we feel compelled to help others out with info and images (as you have done so often).

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T

My Shed

Holdenpaedia, they're the brakes Mate.

I'm creating an H Page for this Chopper and adding your image and your important point about the recessed Bolts, so that it will help others.

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T

My Shed

Holdenpaedia, they're the brakes Mate.

Thats a good Idea "T"

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If it starts knocking.... Turn the stereo UP!!
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My Shed

I forgot about those Recessed Bolt Holes, so your feedabck about them is much appreciated.

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T

My Shed

Holdenpaedia, they're the brakes Mate.

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