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Manual Steering box removal

Gday,
Removing my old steering box to put in power steering.
got the bolts nicely loosened. where the steering shaft connects to the box removed but i cant get the pits arm (i think its called) off the steering rods.
I hope this makes sence
Thanks in advance for your help
Ravin22

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To remove the pitman arm off you can either apply pressure from the top of the steering rods and hit either side of the arm with a hammer or, what i did was left the steering box bolted to the chassis and got a long rod of steal and belted it until eventually it started to move, once it starts to move you'll be right.
If you need to remove the arm from the steering box itself you will need a puller.

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so from underneeth, where the pittsman arm joins onto the steering jinkage/assembally, hold the steering rods up to sturdy them then hit at the arm untill it comes off?

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the end of the pitman arm connects to the drag link on a taper. you have to break the taper (Like when removing a ball joint/tie rod end)

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Cheers, Daniel

Alrighty, i havent done either before. how do i go about doing it and where do i get a replacement?
Cheers

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Why do you want to remove the Pitman Arm from your old steering box? It will not fit the Power Steer box... So long as you have it separated from the Drag Link (the bit that goes across and bolts to the LHS wheel through the tie-rods) just leave it attached to the box.

If your power steer box doesn't have a Pitman Arm on it, you'll need to buy one in any case.

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Cheers...Dave

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Dave, I dont want it seperated from the box. just trying to remove from drag link, Cheers

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Ah, that's alright. It read to me that you were trying to get it off the box...

One of those balljoint separating forks can help as does the big hammer behind the bit where the pitman arm goes through and belt the front of it. Someone putting some pressure on the drag link away from the pitman arm at the same time that you hit the drag link can also help.

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Thanks dave, so belting the drag arm wont damage / bend it?

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No, as long as you only belt it on the point where the pitman arm end goes through it.

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front end work separating tapered joints requires a little skill when parts are on the car and difficult to get to. understanding the taper has to be "shocked off" without damaging the socket joint or hitting the threads helps when weilding heavy mallets in a confined space. while the securing nut is loose but protecting the thread hit either side of the taper joint as hard as you accurately can. this helps to send shocks through to the taper from varying angles, and slightly distorts the taper for a second to help free up the spindle part. you can also turn the steering into different positions to allow a good hit onto as many different areas of the outer taper component. next apply a heavy force in opposite directions to the taper to load up the taper to come apart as forcibly as you can but without possibly damaging the joint. while it is loaded again hit the outside of the taper as hard as you accurately can and hopefully you will hear and see a separation. while loaded you may not be able to hit the oter taper of the joint in numerous places but the previous hits may have helped. loading up can involve levers, crowbars, jack handles and extra mates. remember they won't be your mates antmore if you hit em with the mallet. a cut down sledge hammer is a good mallet as sometimes you dont have a big swing but the extra weight can give a good shock over a short distance. the hit has to be a short sharp hit to exert a shockwave into the joint. hope some of this helps.

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