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Engine oil flush using diesel

I own a vk commodore wagon black 202 {carby}5 speed manual, have had it since 99,is in not to bad nick for age, have looked after it, do all my own repairs and service.What are your views on using diesel as an engine oil flush,I have heard some good reports and a few bad ones,if its ok ?? how much diesel should be used per litre of sump oil etc, and best way of doing it ???

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diesel oil flush

I think you mean flush it out with diesel oil, not diesel fuel dude.

Campbells Shed
Postcode 3147.

diesel fuel

No, he means diesel fuel. Quite common. I use it all the time. I usually add around a litre to the sump and run immediately prior to changing the oil. Dont subject the engine to any load whilst its in. It doesnt hurt as diesel fuel is essentially oil anyhow with lubricants and detergents added, just a lot thinner than your regular oil.
In your VK i would be careful how much build up there is inside the engine. Problems can occur when the engine has never been cleaned, when you try and clean it the diesel rips all the gunk from inside and clogs the pickup. If using it from new or from a rebuild there will be no problems.

engine oil flush

As far as im aware is still the original engine, is totally stock standard have always done regular oil changes use a penrite oil, car has done a lot of open road country driving very little stop start city stuff,blocking the oil pick up is what im fearful of

how do i clean that part out then

i have a vr commadore n the engine when i bout it wasn't leaking but it hadn't been surviced for 100000 km so i drove it a bit then took it top a mate becasue it started leaking oil out of the the bit that conects the oil filter to the engine. i took it off replaced the gasct anf filter andran diesel, petrol, n the engine cleaner stuff through it and even after all this when i put it all back together it still burst out the gasget n leaked oil... i think the oil gallarys are blocked how doo i clean this out?

oil leak VR

Sounds to me like the oil pressure relief valve is stuck or broken. Pull the pump apart and clean it.

i used to use

i used to use about 1 third,,,neoprene can be damaged though with diesel fuel or kero,,like valve stem seals.

WHAT? no gravy?

diesel flush

Diesel won't damage seals any more than motor oil will.

Engine oil flush

Should I add petrol to change diesel oil???

MR ods

Distillate in engine oil

Is probably the best way to unintentionally completely F@&K a perfectly good engine.


oil flush

Wynns and other companies package it in small containers as engine flush for highly inflated prices. Here's an extract from another site, admittedly its from the Internet, but it shares my opinion.

Engine flush? glorified diesel fuel.?
Are the commercial engine flushes little more than diesel/kerosene mix?
1 year ago

by Hruth Member since:
June 29, 2008
Total points:
4981 (Level 4)
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Best Answer - Chosen by Asker
About three years ago I wanted to flush the engine in my car. So I went and bought a bottle of flusher. $12.50 for 125 mL!!

When I unscrewed the lid to tip it into the engine, I noticed a familiar smell. Just like diesel...

Whilst I was tipping it into the engine, I noticed it was exactly the same colour and viscosity as diesel...

When I read the active ingredients on the back of the bottle, it just said 'Hydrocarbons = 100%'...

That was the most expensive diesel I've ever bought...

These days I just put 50 mL of diesel for every litre of oil in the engine when I flush it. Which is every 15,000 km. I change the oil and filter every 3000 km, but when I flush it, I drain the old oil, put on a new filter and fill with the flush mixture, start and run the engine AT IDLE for 1 minute, then drain the flush mix and refill with fresh oil and a new filter.

I don't waste good expensive synthetic oil when I flush, I just use cheap mineral oil. Still the correct grade and weight, just cheap, because it's only going to be run at idle for 1 minute and then thrown away.
I am a qualified diesel technician.

oil flush

Thanks for your views fjwb,a lot of people I have asked have said bought engine flush is just diesel in a pretty bottle, thats why I was interested in what other holden people thought about using it.The amounts of diesel used,and the time engine left idling varies a lot, but I must say most people think it does the job well. One person told me after running engine doing diesel flush, empty the sump of diesel and oil mix, and then put just diesel back in [would have to be 2-3 litres] DONT run engine just leave it sitting overnight.The theory being it will clean all the crap away from the oil pick up.Whats your opinion on that one bloke ??

oil flush

whilst I am pro flushing the engine with the diesel in the oil. I would certainly not be running the engine with just diesel, whilst the diesel does have lubrication properties its viscosity means that it would not have the surface tension to resist metal to metal contact with the internal engine components. I would also shy away from leaving diesel to sit in the motor for an extended period, unless it was just 1 or 2 litres to clean any deposits from the sump. Bear in mind any diesel poured in without the engine running will just rest in the sump anyhow.
For the record I am also a trade qualified diesel mechanic.

can use Diesel Fuel to flush

can i use Diesel Fuel to flush out a gas motor or not and how can i do it

Im glad you said it Shane cos

Im glad you said it Shane cos i totaly agree with you.


My Shed
Sloth Engineering, I'll do it... When I get around to it.

oil flush

By all means criticise the practice but could you explain your opinions of how and why it will f*&k an engine so that the Holden fan can make an educated judgement from the various points of view?

Why engine flushing is BAD

Ok, without going into to much details, just a few things to consider.
Distalite/Engine flush has less lubriscity then engine oil.
Distalite/Engine flush will wash away oil removing your oil wedge in the berings (the oil wedge priciple is what your engine relies on to keep it lubricated until the oil pump is suplying oil at operating pressure) and thin the oil changing the viscosity value of the engine oil.
Flushing the engine could/most probably will disloge any acumulated debris not neisiarily be filterd out by the filter due to being on the discharge side of the filter. I wont go into any more detail here for now but use your imagination.
Any cleaning fluid put into the sump will most likely losen up any sedimentry crud in the botom of the pan, Your leaving yourself open to having crud go through your oil pump cousing wear and blocking the pickup gauze and oil filter. Again I wont go into any more detail just now but again use your imagination as to what may happen.
These are just a few quick resaons that I dont belive any engine should be flushed. There are other reasons to but these are the ones that come to mind first up.

Hope this makes sence, its been a long day.


My Shed
Sloth Engineering, I'll do it... When I get around to it.

Oil flush

I covered most of that in my original post re crud from an old engine, flushing such an engine would require caution, because you agree that the diesel will clean and strip crud from inside the engine. I stated if used from new or on an already fairly clean engine at every service, there will be no problems in that regard.

As for the lubrication issue. Diesel is only being added to the existing oil in the sump. I do not for one minute entertain the thought of running an engine on just Diesel, the engine will surely sustain damage. There is already oil throughout the internal contact points of the engine from its last run. The diesel will mix with the oil in the system and travel throughout the engine cleaning as it goes. I would not place the engine under any load during this time (Wynns website states that you can drive the car as normal with their product), and the old oil still maintains more than adequate surface tension to keep internal components from making contact. In the normal running of an internal combustion engine, particulary older vehicles, some fuel will enter the crankcase during normal operation, this causes no harm, and in the case of petrol it evaporates or is 'boiled off' when the engine is at operating temp.

If in fact using additives to flush an engine would cause damage do you think the products would still be marketed and sold by numerous companies in Australia? If there had been any such claims they would surely have a plethora of dishonest people knocking on their door for an engine rebuild. They don't because it does'nt happen. Speaking from experience, I previously worked at a dealership for 10 years, we would have used at least ten bottles of engine flush a day in that period and they still use it to this day. No engine was ever damaged nor did any customers complain of such a thing. I personally will not waste my money on the stuff but have used diesel for the last 15 years in various cars, from a new captiva, V2 monaro 5.7l, HZ , WB, FJ's, commodore V6's, a fergi and a diesel ford tractor, never had one problem but they are all nice and clean inside.

I do accept that regular maintainance using quality oil on a well tuned engine will keep the engine clean, switching to LPG will eliminate any carbon in the oil at all. (leaves acids though). However, in the quest to please the customer and sway buyer choice oil change intervals on new cars are being increased with about 15,000k's being the minimum these days. This is pushing the boundaries of what the oil can handle and will result in deposits being left inside the engine. This is where a quick flush with a bit of diesel will work wonders.

Does it have to be done? No. Its one of those personal things that people like or hate. But it certainly will do no damage if you prefer to do it.

Snake oil engine cleaning

To be honest Ive never used or even looked at any of the engine flush treatments so I dont know much about them. I think they are totaly unesisary and a waste of time and money. You obviously sware by the practice and well each to there own but in all honesty its not something that I would encorage others to do. Its one of the things that as a Marine Engineer does not make any engineering sence to me.


My Shed
Sloth Engineering, I'll do it... When I get around to it.

engine flush

I certainly don't swear by it but for $1.20 or so for a litre of diesel its cheap preventive maintenance, which I will continue to use. If I dont have any around then I dont lose any sleep over not doing it. As you say each to their own. I am only responding to the original question asked with my opinion based on my experiences. I was not invloved in the sale of the product to the customers, so there was no advantage to me if I used the commercial product or not.

As a Marine engineer you would appreciate that a 2 stroke engine has a large amount of petrol in comparison to oil constantly in the crankcase, usually between 25
:1 to 50:1. The small amount of oil still manages to suffiecently lubricate the internal engine components without being washed away by the petrol even without an instant, constant or for that matter any high pressure feed, such as in modern motor cars. In fact, the petrol is used to deliver the oil to where it is needed. The environment of the crankcase in this application is constantly being cleaned by the fuel. How many two stroke engines are pulled down with gummy crankcases? None. How many fail because of petrol washing out the bearing surface? None. By your reasoning everytime a 2 stroke engine is started it should suffer main and bigend bearing failure and the gudgeon pin should also sieze.

All I have to say about this

All I have to say about this comment is that a petrol 2 stroke engine is designed to operate with a mixture of fule and oil in what ever ratio and I dare say that the designers of all other engines didnt intend for them to have anything other than lubricating oil of the specified viscosity used in the lubricating system for what ever reason. I dont see how flushing an engine can be seen as preventitive maintanance, preventitive maintanance to me is keeping all things other then the lubricating oil out of the lubrication system and keeping it filterd and changing it when specified.


My Shed
Sloth Engineering, I'll do it... When I get around to it.

Diesel in engine oil as a flush

I have been using 1 quart of diesel in my engine oil before change since 1954. Just pure it in without draining any out. Idle for about 30 minutes and drain completely. No problems ever. Just a very clean engine.

attn Shane (HPEngines) re: engine flush

Shane, whats your suggestion for flushing the engine oil ? My hx has been sitting for 4 years and would like to flush it before it gets re-registered at the start of the year.


The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits - Albert Einstein..


Regular changes

Personally, I would just perform regular changes.



What problem are trying to cure?

It sounds as though the Car is being used properly. If the Oil Change intervals are correct the Engine will be like this internally ...



My Shed

Holdenpaedia, they're the brakes Mate.



Measure once cut twice

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1. (in classical mythology) a unique bird that lived for five or six centuries in the Arabian desert, after this time burning itself on a funeral pyre and rising from the ashes with renewed youth to live through another c

engine oil flush

Diesel breaks down oil.

It reduces it's viscosity, it's corrosion protection abilities, will remove protective films such as zinc and phosphorus (ZDDP)which is what keeps your flat tappet camshaft, valve guides and rocker gear alive.

It will kill oil seals. Place any old rubber oil seal in the front of an injector pump and see how long it lasts.

Ask any Toyota mechanic how many times they have had to wait an hour for the molasses to drain from the sump on a 2H or 3L diesel engine, and to be able to stand a screwdriver in the oil when done.

Why would you intentionally add something to your oil, that will break it down, and remove most of its abilities to do its job?

Will diesel clean the gunk and dislodge sediment, residue or build-up? Of course it will. So will kero.
Because it's diluting the oil.

The diesel can't be totally drained from the sump.

For example, when I build a SBC, I fill it with oil, fill the filter and prime the engine. It takes very close to 6 litres.
Place engine on stand and bed cam in for 20 mins.
Drain oil, replace filter and re-fill with oil ready to hand over to customer. But it only takes 5.5 litres to fill this time. Where is the other half of litre of oil? Still in the engine.

Diesel will dilute the oil. If you feel this is a good thing, then by all means, add it to your engine oil.


OIl flush

So we all agree that additive/diesel/kero will clean your engine. So in that respect the product succeeds in what it purports to do.

The commercial product is available in a 125ml bottle. When added to the average 5 litres of oil, that works out to 25ml per litre, for those into alcohol thats less than half a shot glass. So in the example SBC, after an oil change the engine will retain 12.5ml of additive within the oil galleries and internal components of the engine. After adding a fresh 5 litres of oil there is now 2.5ml of additive per litre (less in the case of the SBC) That amount is just about enough to form a bubble on top of a twenty cent piece. A minuscule amount within the engine, and significantly less than the litres of water and petrol that an engine oil can absorb and dissipate in its life cycle.

Does the engine flush damage an engine? I fail to see how at least five companies would market such a product if it damaged an engine.
Does it work? We all agree that it does clean as stated.
Is it good or bad? Its obviously open to personal opinion whether it is beneficial to clean the inside of the engine with such a product or diesel. There is a distinct lack of evidence to suggest it does anything bad. Even a thorough search of the net, where people love to lie and exaggerate reveals many people asking if they should and many people stating they have, I'm not saying there isn't, but i have not found one direct claim that it stuffed an engine.
The question should be asked has anyone personally seen an engine that is claimed to have failed from such practice? If so, do you have photographs and evidence to change opinions?

In regards to diesel stuffing an 'ordinary rubber seal'. Ordinary rubber has not been used for many years as an engine sealing component for any engine or fuel system. Rubber is made from oil and when saturated in ordinary oil will slowly become oil once again. This is why burnout competitors soak the tyres in diesel or oil for weeks before the competition. This is why rubber was enhanced or replaced with neoprene and other synthetic variables.

Also bear in mind that Diesel fuel is used as the only lubrication inside the fuel system of diesel engines which usually run into the millions of kilometers. Running petrol by mistake in these systems can cause and does cause thousands of $$$ damage because it removes the lubricant (diesel) from the system. This is a common, proven failure with many examples able to found.

If you research ZDDP you will find that it is and will be removed from oil to appease the greenies anyway, in fact any API certified oil already conatins less than a 1/10 of a percent ZDDP, so any fear of washing that away will be short lived as soon it wont be there to wash away! ZDDP additives can already be bought in the US to substitute its removal, this may open another can of worms as its benefits are generally only considered worth while during the 'break in period' and actually increase friction and fuel consumption (also a reason for its removal) The removal of this from oil is one reason most manufacturers now use roller lifters etc.

Perhaps a combination engine flush/ZDDP additive is on the horizon!


No, he means diesel fuel. Quite common. I use it all the time. I usually add around a litre to the sump and run immediately prior to changing the oil.


Maybe time to change oil http://www.penriteoi...


I do add around a litre, i dont waste time measuring it, with no detriment. The paragraph above clearly relates to the 125ml commercial bottles or same quantity of diesel.

I'm guessing you wrote that post quoting one of mine, you may want to fix it as it reads as if you are recommending and using the procedure, which I appreciate you do not.


Sorry to offend.


I'm off to soak some tyres in diesel and oil. Maybe now I'll be able to do a skid.

no offence taken

No offence taken I enjoy a good discussion without people trying to rip heads off etc. Its to the benefit of everyone interested in the topic. I didn't want someone looking up the topic thinking you recommended it, considering your occupation and view.

I actually use and recommend penrite oil, I'm guessing you do too. A quick search of non Australian based oil manufactures appears to indicate that ZDDP is now completely a thing of the past which will be surely follow on here.
A search of the Australian Castrol site led me to this quote;

Question # 2
Q – It would be nice if someone would tell the truth about the new oils being bad for the older flat tappet engines. There are a lot of new and used cam shafts being damaged in the first few hundreds of miles when the new oils with out the Zink etc. in them. What should people use in place of them.

There is a huge discussion going on in the classic car world at the moment about the reduction of ZDDP in modern oils and the effect that is going to have on our flat tappet engines. Nobody seems to have a definitive answer to this question, which oil can I use in my flat tappet engines? I drive Triumphs and MGs, I have used Castrol 20W50 for a couple of decades or more, will this oil still give the protection I have come to expect or does Castrol manufacture an oil suitable for these older engines.

Recently on an online sports car dg there was a thread concerning oils which are not formulated for older flat–tappet engines. As an owner of two pre '67 cars, how can I be sure that the oil I use does not harm the camshafts? I have been using Castrol 20w–50.

A lot of the online forums, pertaining to older collectible 60's/70's muscle cars, have threads concerning the zinc and phosphorus content of modern oils and their impact on premature camshaft wear/failure. Can you comment on this and publish the zinc and phosphorus content of Castrol products. Thanks.

How is the reduction in the amount of zinc in the new motor oils going to effect older vehicles with flat tappet camshafts?
A – Lower levels of zinc are a problem for owners of older vehicles. Technology and change in current production automobiles have created a vacuum in the oil specifications going backwards for older vehicles. As current oils in market today were "improved" for current standards removal of certain additives, zinc among them, was required. This isn't intended to be a jab at the government but I believe the buck stopped there in this case. Changes for emissions levels and systems required changes in oil formulations. Castrol is responding to this problem and after some extensive engineering will be able to offer solutions and information.

At the time I could find nothing about the impending solution.


It has a lot to do with the car manufacturers wanting the phosphorus removed. (I think that's how it went)

Don't quote me on this, (myehholden may be able to answer this), but I believe the phosphorus kills O2 sensors. So, the manufacturers wanted it removed, as it was causing a chain effect down the engine management line. It is my understanding, that the phosphorus is needed to "bond" the zinc to metal ?

I haven't looked into it in great detail, bit I believe there are quite a few diesel engine oils with high ZDDP levels still. This will soon be on the non zinc hit list, as a lot of diesel engines are now running cats and sensors.


Penrite oil the way to go

A search of the US Mobil site
Indicates around an average of 1000ppm of zinc and phosphorus each. I'm no mathematician but that works out to that golden 10th of a percent. Other companies seem to not even record it.
Penrite definitely appears to have the most ZDDP at the current time so is a clear stand out for those of us with older vehicles, especially if fitted with a new cam and lifters.

I think you are right with your assumptions on the reasons to reduce ZDDP. There is no clear answer but all seems to revolve around 'making the pollution control system operate correctly and more efficiently' I read as o2 sensors and cat convertors.

Oil Flush.....

In one of my other threads, a couple of guys said run diesel oil thru my engine. Here:
Should I still do this..? Any recommendation for brands/type..?
Thanks guys....



-_--_--_ _______._
_--_-_ -/___+__|__\__
.,.,.,.,,.,|_O ________O_|

Tim's oil

As Grawberry said, it contains a detergent.


Grey/Red Flushing

In the Grey Motor days Engine flushes were routine because the Oils had no cleansing agent in them.

The recommended Oil was as labelled on the Rocker Cover of this Red Engine ...


Grey Motor owners were advised not to gravitate to MS Oils in case something in the Crankcase worked loose and caused a Bearing failure. Since Grey Motors at best had by-pass Oil Filters the risk was greater.

This may be the circumstance you've been advised about.


My Shed

Holdenpaedia, they're the brakes Mate.

you can use deisel engine

you can use deisel engine oils in petrol engines ,they have more zinc content ,so long as you use the correct grade,and use it from day one ,it could dislodge gunk in an old claggy engine,penrite hpr gas oil also has more zinc and this is the oil i run in my four cylinder jap bike ,have a look on some bike forums and some guys even use deisel oil in their bikes .if a motor really needs to be flushed it must be clagged ,should be stripped and rebuilt ,i think maybe on an old motor that hasnt been run for a long time it could help clear galleries,i wouldnt expect any miracles as claimed on the bottles of stuff you buy .,two strokes mostly have needle roller type bearings in the small and big end and ball roller mains which dont need full oil pressure applied to them ,the oil is a totally diferent type aswell.

WHAT? no gravy?

Zinc in oil

Sorry if I'm repeating someone else, but I haven't read all of the above. I came across this the other day:


It shows the zinc levels in most Penrite oils. I use HPR 30 in my 202, and it seems to have more zinc than their diesel oils.

Cheers, Stu



flushing engine observations ,30 years of diesel fitting

I,ve quite enjoyed this topic and the different points of view that have been presented. I would like to add my own personnnel observations about using diesel as a flushing agent .Diesel is an oil and aas such it has lubricating properties if it did not all diesel injection components would sieze due to friction and the minute tolerences involvled ,much less than engine rebuild clearances. It's defininatly not as good as your recommended oil but a small amount say 100 mls added to the sump and engine run at idle for 10 minutes shouldn't do any harm , what may cause harm is the dislodgement of particulate matter that may block the pickup screen causing the oil system to starve for oil, this would depend on how much crap is in the engine and the how fine the pickup screen is.Whether you flush with diesel or not it comes down to personnal choice and acceptance of there could be consequences of this action.Diesel in the lubricating oil of adiesel engine is a fairly common occurance due to the design of desiel fuel systems ,GM Cummins Caterpillar etc have all suffered from this problem and continue to do so if left untreated too long it will cause damage,diagnosed and repaired, engines can go on and have a normal service life. Examples of this are cummins engines the o-rings on the injectors fail ,which being install in the head leak fuel ito the sump diluting the oil.Replace o-rings change oil and filters and send on it's way. Cat and GM broken injection lines under tappet covers crack with same result,repair change oil and filters. there are numerous other examples Icould quote but you get the Idea,now many cases I have seen have varing levels of dilution from 5% to a massive 60% the fuel oil mix was actually running out the dipstick ,this engine went on to record 16000 hours of service life the manufacturer only reccommends 10000 hours ,none of these engines failed prematurely.Personnally I've used diesel added to oil to flush diesel engines at the rate of 50 mls per litre of sump capacity of the engine. I've also used pure diesel to flush diffs and manual gearboxes after water ingress into the oil.As stated these are personal observations gathered over 30 years, so some will agree and others will disagree ,I don't care either way.

PS. diesel dilution will become a bigger problem now that thae main fuel system is becoming common rail as most components will be internal.


Engine flushing

I suggested those points re lubrication in the diesel fuel system in one of my previous posts.
Again I am totally open to the fact that some people don't like it. I mainly disagree that if you choose to do it that it will stuff an engine. Everyone seems to agree that it will clean deposits from an engine, so from that point it does have applications.

In relation to the ZDDP being 'washed' out of an engine and causing damage, if this additive was meant to stay inside an engine in would not need to be added to new oil. It would be used in running in oil only (of interest is that Penrite's running in oil has less ZDDP that the oil that Shane posted the link to, this is supposed to be when it benefits are greatest!). It is obvious that ZDDP is a consumable item, like oil, that does not 'stick' or stay inside the engine other than in residual oil during an oil change. In this respect it is still inside the engine with the oil and diesel/engine flush when its being used, therefore still offering protection.

I freely admit that the amount of diesel I use is significantly greater than the commercial product, but i can also vouch for the fact that i have used it every oil change in a VY V6 commodore since i bought it with 30,000k's, it now has 280,000k's and is running great. I agree that flushing the engine probably has nothing to do with its longevity but in that respect it has certainly done it no harm, the engine has no oil leaks and has never been apart.

There is obviously people who do not like any additives in the oil, as some people have commented, if its not in the oil its not meant to be there, they say. This question should then be posed, when ZDDP is removed from engine oil, as it is fact it will be, and likely on the quiet, will you be choosing not to add the ZDDP additive to protect your old engine from damage or to bed in your new flat tappet cam and lifters?

There seems to be actual evidence to suggest that removal of this additive from the US market has led to documented engine failures, which has resulted in a ZDDP additive being brought to the market. (ref page 91 Sep 09 Australian Street Rodding mag). For the record this same article stipulates that it has been removed to extend the life of catalytic converters.

I'm certainly not attempting to convert anyone to this practice but this discussion has evolved quite well with some great opinions.As a mechanic, whilst i had heard of ZDDP, i had never really done any research on the topic, until this thread inspired me to. I own a quite a few older vehicles and fortunately have always favoured Penrite oils without knowing it was by far the best in relation to its ZDDP content.

oil flushing

a month or 2 back i had a case of a bubble shape tarago that had no oil pressure. the oil had been in there so long it had gone solid, i guessed at 80,000km plus.

i had to remove the pickup to clean it, then after fitting the sump i added 2 litres of pure diesel and a filter, ran it for a few minutes, drained it, added 2 more litres of diesel, ran it, drained it, then added 6 litres of fresh oil and a filter. i then drained this after a week of driving and again replaced the filter.

i did this as i wanted to get rid of as much of the thick oil as possible, from areas like the small galleries that lead to the cam journals etc etc.

the owner was extremely lucky as it is still running ok, has the oh so slightest big end knock but is otherwise fine.

so i can report that it worked well in my case.

yeah fjwb ive used penrite

yeah fjwb ive used penrite for years also ,,hpr 30 in a 308 ,its done 110,000 kays since i rebuilt it and replaced the heads a year ago and the bores still had honing marks evident,never uses oil .,changed every 8000.everyone has there favourite oil so i wont get into that bit.

WHAT? no gravy?

engine flushing

hi my name is jason my neighbour owns a ford an old one he did an oil change but our other neighbour put 5 litres of diesel petrol through he drained it out put new oil in and now it blows heaps of smoke due to do another oil change today what should he do

Loosened Sludge

This Engine has been neglected. Neglect comes at a Price.
In the least you run the risk of Engine failure caused by loosened Sludge blocking the Oil Galleries and Piston Rings.

Which model Ford is it?


My Shed

Holdenpaedia, they're the brakes Mate.

5 litre

Hi guys just started reading this convo I have a VN Calais 5 litre which lost oil pressure for a short period of time the tappets got noiser then it came back and everything was fine though the oil light comes on intermittently an flashes then goes off, I took off the oil filler caps and noticed a lot of carbon build up, so I suspect some [Naughty Pottyword] got caught on the oil pickup for the valves an tappets. I want to flush the motor how would I go about this? Do the diesel/engine oil solution as stated above? Cheers for your help Nathan

5l oil pressure

I think you will find your pick up is getting blocked. If so you will need to remove the sump and clean the pick up.

need help

iv cb 125 Honda that's stood for two years water has got in to engine about tow ltrs and in to the gear box its not seizd uphow do I clean out

Yep it works

I read this, tried it no stress, I ran a 50/50 blend in a gummy 121 Mazda for just over a week, I'd say that's extreme... But idle and run thru all good :)

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