started testing the mollasis rust eater theory

I'll "mark this thread" and ask that you post back here when you have a result to share with us.
I've had a play with a 44 of mollasis and water but was before i had the net so had no way of researching for the correct ratio and instructions on how to go about it all.
My uneducated crack at it proved successfull but took a long time.

IMPORTANT ::: DO NOT drop any alloys or muck metals in as they will melk down into a blob of goo over night....Learnt that the hard way :-(

I'm having a dabble with sandblasting (and a walk in booth)atm but still like to get me a permanent mollasis tank set-up happening too

"Republic of Dusty's shed"
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"Jesus can see everything I do... and he's going to beat me brainless!"

never heard of it, so i will mark this thread and await some results

could someone please tell me what it's supposed to do?

daves shed
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just markin thread, is it like an acid bath??

Measure once cut twice

Flannel HZ 6151

My Shed

I've heard about it, can I come along for the ride....?
........Tim.
My Shed
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Cheers, Tom

tom.kelly.x2@hotmail.com
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i used 50/50 with boiling or very hot water in a motorcycle tank full to the brim ,,this tank had flakey rust and still had fuel from 20 years ago in it!!a real putrid tank!! after hot washing it out with degreaser i used mollasses and shook it up every few days for 3 weeks ,,it works !google it ..i then used a product called por 15 ,which is a 3 step takes a week to do thing ,,and leaves a silver coating as hard as glass,,as far as doing nuts and bolts and small parts it would be an ideal and cheap way to "cheleat" steel ,if you have a big enough tank you could do a whole car !!or your mother inlaw.

Its good for stripping paint off and rust but won't remove grease
I found a better way was a 60 litre drum using nuclear 80 acid ( its in a powder form mixed with water) a lot of radiator shops use it with a submersible element was a better way to strip parts i used this to do 6 cylinder engine blocks and gear box housings anything cast iron or steel was ok but no alloy stuff
i also used a 44 gallon drum cut down to half its size to do wheel rims etc
Main thing is to dry it as soon as possible and coat with a rust preventative

Works quite well if yo are in no hurry, I used it to clean up a couple of FC warmeride heater boxes, removed the paint in a day or two, killed the rust in about a week & a half, allowing it to be just hosed off before painting.

If you have the ability, heat the molassis mix & this will aid in its speed at cleaning, we had a simular set up at work but used hydrocloric acid, tank was heated & compressed air run from the bottom of the tank to help keep the mix moving, that stuff removed oil, grease, rust, plastic & paint in a few days.

Kev's Monaro shed

HOLDEN The Great Way to Move

Told ya's :-P

"Republic of Dusty's shed"
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"Jesus can see everything I do... and he's going to beat me brainless!"

hey how come my keyboards all wet dusty??

I was under the impression that mollassis never touched paint?
if this works, im gona get a old bath, and dip the fj doors in.
im thinking about getting one of those plastic kids pools, they would be big enough to dunk a bonnet in

i did find caustic accid in a small pack at my local supermarket, witch will be the next test if the mollassis is a dud

How effective was your "mix" on the mother inlaw?
please give me exact instructions incase i need to "test"

Molasses works well as does this

Cheers...Dave

"Search more, Post less"

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Qute's Shed

Molasses car wash maybe??, or just fill the pool, park my car in it from now on....

cheap vinager, id never heard of using it
i noticed in the pics, it was only light surface rust

Now, what in blazes were you doing hanging around a vw site??? your not coming out of the closet are you :)

How it works is the phosphoric acid content in the molasses. Just like coca cola works the same way. The recommended ratio is 5 parts molasses to one part water - or what ever works for you as we have found there are different grades of molasses.
One important thing to keep in mind is that it can go into a fermentation state - and you end up with something quite putrid - so dont keep it in direct sunlight! Don't leave any parts above the molasses solution surface - or you will end up with an etched tideline.

This is an age old system that works a treat - it does take time. Rust never sleeps- but you can cure it with a molasses bath.
Cheers streetneat-Andrew.
(Click Here to view the world of streetneat)

Marking NM

“And on the eighth day God created Paratroopers, and the Devil stood to attention”

Yep, ive heard of it but havent followed thru the process.
Im in for the ride too me thinks... Kev

just markin thread

Going to have to give the malt Vinegar a go, might have to sit & watch it do it's stuff with a bit of my own malt in hand.

Kev's Monaro shed

HOLDEN The Great Way to Move

I have had excellent results with electrolysis. Still slow but quicker and more thorough than molasses. Theres some good info available by googling.
There is now a company in Sydney using this method to strip entire car bodies.

The best argument against democracy is a five minute conversation with the average voter.

I'll grab some at work and give it a go on monday (Maybe Tuesday)

Stephen
My Shed | Email Me

i just checked the parts. there looking pretty much the same as when they went in, cept there darker
possably the mix is to cold, but it shure dos make the shed smell nice

i went and brought some mollases today, the guy seen my car and said "are you going to clean some car parts with that" i said yep and he said that he sells lots of it to people who use it for cleaning car parts, and he's used it and it work really well

before i start i have a few questions

1/ will it effect rubber in a bad way like it does alloys?

2/ what is the best ratio of mollases/water

3/ if i dipped the bottom of a rusty quarter panel in a bucket of it, would that be ok? or is the tide mark streetneat talked about a bad thing?

daves shed
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i threw in a old fj master cylinder, and wass hoping the mollasis would eat away the piston inside it (alloy) but its still there.

my mix was 5 litres of molassis and 7 litres of warm water.
in a post above, streetneat says 5 parts molassis to 1 part water. so there seems to be a big varity on ratio mixes

i did read that it should ferment first b4 adding the rusted parts.

Im going to kmart this week to look at those kids sandbox thingys (there a giant clam shell) it should be big enough and also deep enough for a car door/boot etc if there layed flat

i got a big bottle of black and gold white vinegar for $1.23 today, it was enough to almost completely fill a large ice cream container. Im soaking a heap of old 1/2 inch bolts and the nuts that are like tabs you slip on guards and things.

Only been in there 2 hours and results are looking good. vinegar is slowly bubbling as it reacts with the rust (there are bubbles of gas rising of bolts to the surface).
There is a thin layer of rusty colored stuff forming on the top. at this stage you can still see through it (although it looks a bit murky), but when you stir through it with a screwdriver it condenses on the end of the screwdriver and is easily visible.

Could someone explain more about only half submerging things, and exactly what it does. does it just leave rust where its not under, or does it actually cause more rust where the surface of the vinegar is?
Im looking at dipping some leaf springs from a one tonner. there's no paint on them, just a layer of rust. they don't appear to be pitted yet though.
The problem is ive just replaced the bush at one end of the spring, and dont like the idea of soaking the rubber bush in the stuff. If its not going to damage the spring, i will just leave the bush out of the vinegar, and clean the rust up around it by hand.

Basically dont leave parts above the tide line for extended periods unchecked. I found it does eat away more at the tide line as thats where the froth gathers. If you pull the parts out occasionally - move 'em around or at least clean away the gunk at the tide line - this helps.

Also - if you wanna save dollars - and who doesn't. A sheet of black plastic and a shovel will make you a pool you can soak your parts in. We have done just this with car bonnets - where we only wanted to treat the very front. We used a 5:1 ratio and found this works well. Its not an exact science - so make it what ever you wish. A lot of guys that told us about it years ago all said 5:1 so that's what we have been working too. It can take a few weeks.

Personally I had better things to do than watch molasses so I built a blast cabinet - which unfortunately didnt come with me to NZ so I'm gunna have to make another. Its quicker and easier but does consume some hours. Molasses baths are great if you aren't in a hurry.

Cheers streetneat-Andrew.
(Click Here to view the world of streetneat)

basically the air-molasses interface sets up a little battery due to the difference in O2 concentrations resulting in electrolysis meaning the corrosion at the tide-line is accelerated and so the metal is eaten away

would it be quicker if the parts were dunked in pure mollasis?

Interesting.

Cheers

Jesse
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My Shed

will this process remove ANY grease/oil? or do the parts have to be completly de-greased first

what would happen if you mixed mollases/water/vinegar? better or worse

daves shed
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duno the outcome, but your neighburs would probally call the terrrist squad, due to the amount of fumes exiting your shed

went out b4, the mix was veary cold, so i put in a old aquaruim heater set to 30 deg. some of the parts are looking shiny, but id expected more rust eaten by this time.
also noted a fair amount of molassis has covered the floor of the tub

this has rekindled my restoration habit,,i just bought 4 litres for 6 bucks ,,i had some left over bike parts i thought id do ,,along with, in a separate container an old qjet main body ,,ive done steel and cast iron before so am trying alloy over short periods ,,i use about 3-4 to one with hot water to get it mixed in quicker,,my wife comes out and says whats that smell ,,have you spilt beer everywhere? ah ,its a mans world....

just checked my mix, and its warm, and steaming of the top.

Could you put a chrome bumper bar into the molassis/vinegar mix? It's in need of TLC, with surface rust and peeling of the chrome..

Also would the sliding seat brackets/mechanisms be alright getting emersed in the mixture?

Cheers

Jesse
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My Shed

the qjet body is a throw away dusty,,im just keen to see how far ,or long you can go with this metal ,one day so far no change,,ps i didnt spill beer,i always smell like this!!

personaly would definately not dipp any pannel in molassis ect due to it getting between the double panels and into seams that are imposible to recoat -bonnet ,boot frames ect.i have seen doors ,bonnets body shells seeping rust at seams , a short time after a resto resulting in terminal cancer ,tin worm ,rust call it what you like but in the long run this stuff will keep eating from the inside out,i blast the edges and paint stripp the flat large areas with no trouble , any small items-bolts ,brackets ,clips ect i put in diluted hydro acid - no alloys though !!they come out like new and its cheap as chips !! cheers

that qjet body has been in for a week now ,dosent look damaged ,its only been fermenting for a couple of days though ,,it does look slightly brighter though,on "classic restos" they had a bloke had a giant feed tank full for dipping entire cars!!!with the mother inlaw in the boot!!

with the heater in the mix, its now frothing and smelling like a beer brewing vessel that still has the scum inside :)
it bloody pongs, and it looks really black. still the parts are rusted, slight shiny bits in places