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bodywork/prime/filler frustrations......

Hi All.
First post so hope I get this right.
Im restoring a 69 HT. Its been bare blasted with a coat of PPG DP40. Over the last year my panel beater had corrected all the rust. His method was cut out. weld in new metal. beat straight. Skim bog over the bare metal repair area( ill come back to this)then reprime with DP40 and move on.
This work is now done and im ready to get the painter on to it.

Now PPG DP40 was recommended to me and I spoke to the reps before using it. My general understanding at the time we started this was.
Bare blasted metal is fine to lay DP40 over.
No need for metal clean etc.
You can bog over it.( although my guy elected not to)

and if you put anything over the DP40( filler or primer etc) It can go straight over if under 7 hours from application.
Between 7 hours and 7 days. It must be scuffed/cleaned first
Over 7 days you scuff/clean then re-shoot 1 coat of DP40 and start this window again.

Now my frustration.....
Having spoken to a few PPG suppliers/tech supports/paint shop users. They have all told me something different.
Some say bog over it. Some say no way.
Some say reshoot after 7 days. Some say no need even at 3 months just scuff.
Some say done use polyester primer over it. Some say its fine.

I have spent a lot of time and money on this car and im trying to do it right but I struggle to see how the answers can vary so much from the subject matter experts. Im at a point where im hesitant to move forward.

So what am I asking ???
I guess in short the painter wants to sharpen up the style line aft of the door. We are deciding if this can be done with a light skim of filler or done during a coat of polyester primer or high build primer. My issue is I have no idea on what product I should use from here or how to prep the panel before we address the style line

We are even considering jumping to another product like de beers which the painter is more familiar with and its use more clear to follow.....

Any thoughts to help me in this area will be greatly appreciated.

cheers

Steve

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Comments

generally if you want to make body lines more sharp you use a sanding block on the primer coats
the lines on the HT weren't really sharp more a rounded line

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That’s a new one on me,
I’d be going with what the painter knows work and is comfortable using.
I’m that way of thinking as I’m an industry spray painter/blaster/ corrosion Inspector’s on gas pipeline. I’m not up to spec with auto motive paints sorry, so if he’s been in the game for more then 5 years, yea I’d be going on what he knows works well as he has used it before and had no dramer before, one would think.
My old HR Ute we did it in galmeck (that cold gal spray) them etched primer then top colour and clear over base. I always said if I was to totally rebuild a car again that’s the way I’d go again. I had theHR Ute for almost 10 years and it never had any sign of rust
Hope all goes well for ya

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"just my 2cents worth"

"were going to need a bigger shed"
trippled75@yahoo.com.au
This will take You to" Old Holden sheds"
https://web.archive....

Should add. The panel is a rares quarter section.
So the style line is softer than the door and guard. Not sure if we should use a light skim of filler then block the line. Polyester primer over the whole car and block or just going straight to high build which will probably be enough to sharpen the line up. The reps have us rattled as far as using filler or polyester primer over the DP40 now.

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OK.
Still no clearer from chats with PPG directly.....
TDS for DPLF ( us version lead free) does state you can put filler over it but the TDS for DP40 does not even though filler over epoxy primer is considered ok.
So to be safe we are going old school and putting filler on bare metal for the style lines( will be lucky to be 2mm thick really)then DP40 over the top.
When ready for high build in a de beers product we will scuff the DP40, reshoot one coat then spray the high build over saying goodbye to PPG.....

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Keep us informed how it goes

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Bryan

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