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Pre-Filling Oil Filters

While this video (https://www.youtube.... ) about Cat Diesel oil and petrol filters, the principles are the same for the oil filters on our petrol driven vehicles and it does raise some interesting questions. If we are filling via the large spin on hole on filter we are filling at the outlet side and are probably doing very little in terms of priming the oil pump or oil lines. Also, while new oil is hopefully clean and free of debris, if there is a foil cap on the oil pack that fully or partially falls off, or anything else in the oil that shouldn't be, it's going to go into the engine without being filtered. Even if we keep filling the filters at the outlet hole as the level subsides it is probably just being soaked up by the filter media in a sponge like fashion rather than passing to the filter inlet side. So do we pre-fill and if so should we be doing it with a small funnel one of small perimeter inlet holes using a suitable small funnel? I suspect we should fill from both a perimeter hole and large outlet hole just so we get oil on the inlet pump side and also reduce the amount of oil we have to add after first post oil fill start up.

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Common sense always told me I filled the filter so oil was readily available
i.e there would be very little lack of oil on the first start up.
In a gauze filter, the oil fills the whole filter.
Of course with an old holden, getting the filter on without losing oil is difficult because of the side mounting of the filters.
No idea what you mean by foil cap, and when filling with a funnel, it should have a gauze strainer and be spotlessly clean from even a speck of dust.
Don't just pull the funnel off the shelf and use it, clean it first.

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As I have never done that just filled the thing up why haven't I ruined an engine in the last 25 years as the holden filter sits sideways how much oil do we all lose while putting it on a nice tip but its worth sfa in reality. Ive changed heaps of diesel filters and its never mattered on any of them either.

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Ditto ! I always run the motor prior to draining , I also always add a flush before oil change but some won't agree on that either , running the motor gets everything wet so imho prefilling is not necessary as it only takes a few seconds to circulate new oil , no worse than starting your classic in the shed once a month when all the oil is in the sump cold and lumpy. Secret to engine longevity is always change your oil and filter before it is due never later and use correct grade/type for your motor spec.

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I always drop my old oil hot, so i'd imagine that there would be enough of a film of old oil on moving parts once you've droppped the old oil and replaced with fresh. So on the initial start up, it would only be for a few seconds till the new oil gets in and through the new filter anyway wouldnt it?

It might be different if you dropped the old oil and left it for a few days / weeks before replacing and starting.

What was the recommendation from holden back in the day?

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at tech we were taught to always fill the filter with oil
i worked for a place where we had toyota coaster buses and the young guy put the filter on dry result was a dry filter no oil
did the bearings in seen this happen also with cheap gentric brand filters too

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So were you taught to pre-fill it at outlet hole or the smaller perimeter inlet holes?

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Regards Blue

Also interesting: http://beamalarm.com... " and http://www.widman.bi... "23. When changing oil, always change the oil filter. If you pre-fill your filter, do it with extreme caution. Any oil that goes into the center will reach the engine unfiltered (and there is no cleanliness requirement for new oils)."

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Regards Blue

Apparently foil seals or parts thereof from the new oil container have sometimes found there way into the filter when prefilling. It doesn't surprise me due to my experience with a well known brand of upper cylinder lubricant petrol additive in my LC Lancer. It was probably nearly 20 years ago, but in any event, while I was careful to remove the seal before pouring the additive in the tank I ended up with a daisy chain of around 12 seal in the tank. Obviously something had got wrong in the filling plant and this daisy chain of seals had ended up in the container of upper cylinder head lubricant. These seals had two layers: a white waxy papery layer and a transparent layer. The two layers separated in the tanks and the paper bits got sucked one by one and rolled themselves up to get through the line as far as the fuel filter where I found them. The clear plastic bits broke into several smaller daisy chains that kept blocking the fuel inlet pickup pipe in the tank so that the car stalled for lack of fuel but then restarted when these seal dropped off the inlet pipe. You can imagine the fun to had finding a dozen invisible transparent seals in a tanks with baffles running in both directions and not really knowing how many seals I was looking for. It was a laborious task of going through the routine of putting a gallon of fuel in the removed tank shaking it about, emptying it through a mesh filter to find those seals and repeating this 20 or 30 times before crossing my fingers and reinstalling the tank.

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Regards Blue

See https://www.turbodie... "Prefilling an engine oil filter may (or may not be) a good idea for caring for an engine.

It seems that back in the '90s Cummins/Dodge and lots of unhappy owners experienced failed engines shortly after performing or having an oil change performed. Cummins disassembled a few warranty claim engines (and rejected the warranty claim) because a tiny sliver of aluminum was found blocking a piston cooling jet hole under the piston.

The cause was a tiny scrap of aluminum from the seal on top of the gallon jug of fresh engine oil. Apparently it happened many times. An owner, in a hurry, would puncture or tear the aluminum seal away and hurriedly pour fresh oil into the center of the new oil filter.

Oil poured into the center chamber of the oil filter bypasses the filter element and the engine oil pump takes a suction in the center chamber of the oil filter. If that fresh oil contains a tiny sliver of aluminum oil jug seal it will be introduced directly into the engine's oil supply and pumped straight through the engine.

Cummins engines have a tiny hole in the piston structure (haven't seen it, just read about it) that allows engine oil flow for piston cooling. A sliver of aluminum will plug the cooling hole. The first time the driver puts his foot in his Dodge to pull a grade or tow his trailer after an oil change he overheats and melts a piston and wipes out an expensive engine. "

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Regards Blue

The video makes a valid point about pre-filling the filter by the centre hole creating a potential problem. As a non-professional I hold the advantage that my time costs me nothing, so if I witnessed contaminant entering the filter, correcting the problem can only be an advantage.

Oil flows through the gauze quite easily with any of the OH filters I've used. The gauze is one reason why the horizontal mounting never amounts to being a problem for me. As the filter is tipped into the horizontal position, oil flows through the gauze and any flowback gets slowed. You still have to be quick or oil can spill onto the ground.

My motivation for flooding the filter appears during the following startup. The engine has to run for a number of seconds before oil pressue builds up. That may not matter at all. It is a distinct advantage in terms of cycling the valve lifters.

Unless they can be certain that the contaminant that caused the failure is as they describe, the contaminant may have come from the oil filter itself.

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T

My Shed

Holdenpaedia, they're the brakes Mate.

Yes; and I have seen a few filters in my time that came with free detachable thread burr in the outlet hole; I always check now.

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Regards Blue

Me too.

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T

My Shed

Holdenpaedia, they're the brakes Mate.

Posiibly a stupid question, but on a Holden 6 when trying to prime the oil pump, would there be any point filling the pump with oil via the pressure swith hole?

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T

My Shed

Holdenpaedia, they're the brakes Mate.

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T

My Shed

Holdenpaedia, they're the brakes Mate.

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