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HX Holden Engine mods

hey

i have a HX Anniversary model, and i was wondering wat i could do to the motor?

im thinking EFI etc....but i dunno wat else.

im working, and money is not hard to come by, so wats the most i could do to my little 202 to make it perform better, and how much power etc we looking at......remember, money is not a factor in this situation.

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best engine mod would be to drop in a 308 or 350, but if you want to keep the 202, stroke it (using a ford crank) add a nice lumpy cam (depending on how much of a pig you want it to be) change the heads, add efi but maybe use a computer other than the vk one?? extractors, and an electric fan....

Cory

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yeah

well im not mechanically inclined....i know how to adjust the timing, thats about it..........lol

so gimme all the details of the most hotted up 202 u could possibly get, and ill take a print out in to Cesco in devonport, and rodney will build it for me.....:)'

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did you definately want to keep the 202 in? how much do you want to spend? email me and Ill talk to a few people for you and find the most "bang for your buck" my email is cdu_1999@yahoo.com.au

Cory

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depends what you want the car for mate, if its going to be a toy only driven on the weekend then you can obviously go for a bit bigger cam and some other oy' goodies, but if its your everyday driver then i would stick with a motor that will not be to piggish around town. I reckon what you want to do is to get a perkins kit (all gaskets etc, rings and pistons - ACL HQ race pistons), get the crank rods and flywheel (if manual) and preasure plate race balanced, get the harmonic balancer done also, and make sure you get a decent balancer that wont spin when revved. you want to go for a decent street cam, something about 280 degrees duration (30/70 etc), wouldn't go much over that though for a street car, if you want the whining, get straight cut timing gears, otherwise just the alloy would be fine. Get a Yella Terra road racer head (flowed 240hp apparently) and if want to go for foller rockers etc thats fine but i think the price isn't worth it for a street motor, i would make sure you have an electronic dizzy out of a blue motor, actually if you are looking at the EFI i would go for a blue motor to reco, the EFI will only fit onto a blue/black motor. now i have pretty much whats described above with standard VK EFI and a celica 5 speed, and its f#$@ing hauls ass (150-160kw) needless to say it beats alot of v6 and v8's that arn't expecting it. the engine work described above will cost you about $3500+ as i built mine myself so i saved a few hundred in labour costs. a celica/supra conversion is about $1500+ depending if you already have a manual etc. and the EFI can be anything from $200-300 to $500-600 depending on how cheap you can get all the bits etc.

something to think about anyways.

Sammy.

'

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thats news to me....i wasn aware that the EFI off a VK wouldn't fit on a red motor..............

is there any way i could make it fit?

build another manifold or something........lol

oh yeah, i was gunna ask too, about my trimatic gearbox, laugh at me, but im thinking of keeping it........is there anything i can get done to it to make it better, eg.shift kit?

'

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the only way you could make the EFI fit onto a red motor would be to either cut the manifold ports (where they bolt to the head) off a red motor manifold and weld them onto the EFI manifold, either that or custom make your own manifold from a red motor one, but the question to ask is why would you bother, it would be easier to put a blue motor head on the block you have, this swap to a red motor block isn that hard (far easier than the EFI mods anyways.)

as for the trimatic, if you like having 3 gears and no overdrive, there is no reason not to use it, if you spend the right money on it and get it suited to the power etc of your motor then it will work fine.

Sammy.'

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i see wat u mean

but putting a Blue Motor Head on my red block would mean i would lose compression........or can u get the Yella Terra Road Racer heads for the Blue/Black motors?

anyways, i was reading a parts magazine, and a guy in there is selling a set of X2 Carbs complete with manifold for $100...........is that a better way to go than the efi?

the bottom line is am i gunna lose anything putting a Blue/black motor Yella Terra head on my current motor?

im really getting into this, but im gunna need lots of help

:)

thanx peeps

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and also

out of the Road Racer heads which ones would be the best to get?

there are Cast Iron ones, and Alloy ones (but i havea feeling the alloy ones are for ford motors or soemthing)

but which road racer one.......the 6000 or the 9000?

hey, just list out the ultimate 202 specs and everything with it etc. and ill work out the costs. stuff making my own manifold for the EFI on the red motor, i'll use a blue/black motor Yella Terra Head. your 202 sammy sounds really nice :D'

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well i am assuming that your going to be doing a full rebuild of the motor, if so you get the head, then take it in with the rest of the motor thats getting recoed and tell them you want max compresion for the fuel you are using and they will just machine the head or the block to get the desired compression ... simple. and yes the heads are for red/blue/black. I personally don think any carby is better than the EFI, especially not the x2 carbies. In there day sure they were good, and my brother has them on his HR and its never in tune properly. Hes going to put a 350 holley on soon and it will be heaps better!

You wont loose anything by putting the blue head on your motor, especially if you use one flowed at 240hp. They are also brand new casting so they should be fine, also the blue/black heads apparently had alot of core shift problems making them extremely risky to do up like this. But the new casting apparently are alot better in this respect, they also get rid of heat alot better too apparently, whereas my head has been worked and as a result it doesn't get rid of heat properly, i have spent so much money trying to find alternatives for the cooling. If it sits on the spot it will overheat, and then theres 40degree days!!!

In conclusion i think if you are going to do a full rebuild and your going to use the blue yella terra head i would get a blue block to go with it, they are almost identical to the red block, but they have the water holes in the right spot to suite the blue head and also the rods are supposed to be stronger than red motor rods.

Sammy.'

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as for the alloy or cast iron, last i talked to them they not longer have the alloy option. and i didn know there was a 6000 or 9000 ?!?!?!

ps. email me with specific questions, its easier than sifting through all these threads.

Sammy.'

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set it to "nested" so you just click once.

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i was wondering how you did that!!!

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this question is directed at anyone who knows the answer

is it only the computer in the EFI off the VK Commadore that is (TYPO;), and unable to be modified?

or is it other stuff aswell?

coz i know on the VLs u can adjust ya fuel pump etc, and give yaself more power (at a cost to Economy) but i was wondering if its only the chip u need to change on one of these Berlina/Calais motors to make power changes etc.

thanx

'

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Im sure there are people who can tell you more about this but ill share what i know.

The computer in the VK EFI setup as far as i know cannot be re-programmed. This makes the changes to it very restrictive, but thats not to say it can't be modified a bit.

For example, i am running the VK EFI on a modified motor with a pretty big cam, yet i was able to modify the air flow meter to suite the air/fuel ratio that i needed for my motor.

As part of the sensors there is a temperature sensor, basically as the car warms up the temperature sensor tells the computer to put less fuel into the mixture (more fuel at warm up - choke) if your motor runs a bit warm like mine you can modify the resistance coming through that wire to the computer to make it think that the car is running cooler (the hotter it runs the leaner it gets, if my car gets to hot it will lean out an ping to much).

Aside from this sort of stuff i don't think there is too much you can do without an after market computer. I think if you are going to go for an after market computer it would be wise to look into another throttle body like the VN style one, this one has a MAP sensor rather than the highly restrictive air flow meter used on the VK EFI setup (has to be the biggest restriction in the whole setup i reckon) at the same time as doing this you would be wise to use all the sensors off the VN EFI setup and use the VN computer which i have been told is a very good computer in the respect to power gains with reprogramming.

I guess it comes down to what you want to do and what money you have to spend on the whole thing, but i have been using the VK EFI for about 1 yr now and i have to say it is the single best thing i have done to the motor in every respect, and if you can get the setup at a good price its the cheapest one also!!!

Sammy.'

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further to my above post in regards to your question about adjusting the fuel pump etc, i have been told that you can get an increase in power from bumping up the preasure in the fuel rail so the injectors will open the same ammount etc but more fuel will go in when they open. The way to do this would require that the pump can actually handle more preasure, if so you would need to fit another preasure regulator to the end of the fuel rail (may require an adaptor or something to fit an after market regulator to it) and then just adjust this to suite, but i don think it will be of much use unless the motor you have needs so much fuel that the injectors can't cop with it at high revs etc. My 206 blue motor with the standard injectors has no problems revving to 6000-6500rpm and getting enough fuel without any increase in fuel preasure, so i don't know why you would need to do that anyways. Also if my car needed more fuel i would firstly adjust the air fuel ratio which has alot more adjustment in it than i am currently using as when we put the EFI on the car it was running so rich that there was a huge black plume of smoke/unburned fuel coming out of the exhaust and the car would hardly run until it was leaned up ALOT.

Sammy.'

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yeah, im still not sure wat im doing as far as anything goes yet

no matter wat i do, the motor i have currently is staying in my car, until such a time as this other motor is finished.

there was a Black motor 3.3 efi setup in the trading post with the extractors for $350, that could have been the whole engine too btw, but im not sure. There was also a 186S carby and manifold in there too. (a mechanic friend of mine said if i didn want to fuss around when hotting up another motor, that would be prolly the best bet if i was staying with a red 6).....then again, i have a Old 1600 saturn Mitsubishi Colt motor sitting around, and the 2 barrel carb on it looks very tasty........im just wondering if it would be useless on my car or not.

i got no money to spend at the moment anyways, so its no good...........man i wish i had lots of money, it would all be blown on my holden anyday'

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when i looked at your website, i couldn help but notice that u had removed your engine breather hose, and put a oil breather cap in place of your original one...........wat did u clog up the hole with where the engine breather hose went in, coz i am doing this as soon as i find out how u did it

:)'

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mate that hole was never there on my tappet cover, as you can see its an after market one, the original holden ones have the pcv pipe which connects at the back, then they have a hose that connects in the middle and that connects to the air cleaner, then they have the cap on the front, basically the pcv pipe sucks air out of the top of the motor and the middle one allows filtered air into the engine, where as i have the middle pipe blocked and the filter in the front to do the same task, also doubles as a oil filler.

ps. those tappet covers are about $180 at fedral mogul.

Sammy.

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before you go to far doing one up .Cheak the chassi and plates for the AHX stamp before the numbers other wise you might find it is a standard modle you can do a lot off work to the old straight six mine went out 60thou with the stroker kit fully ported and skimmed sweatly over size valves had to go stainless 550 holly (manual choke)intake to match,electronic egnition tuned extractors and black motor oil pump.I tryed thermo fanning it but it got to hot runs better without(don't know why)the auto got triked up (had to get a high stall mod)but it all depends what you want i like the six to sond like an eight i hope it helps someone

MATTAO

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I'm currently in the middle of a conversion, swaping my red 202 for a fuel injected fully worked blue 202, and i was wondering if you can get ignition kits for them. As I would realy like to ditch the dizzy for coil packs. Like the ones found on 3.8l v6 commadores. Does anyone know if such a kit exsists? and if so where?
thanks

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HOLDEN 202 3.3 ENGINE

BLOCK HAND PICKED AND THEN SONIC TESTED

PUMPED UP TO 208 CUBIC INCH

CNC X EXTREME CRANKSHAFT FLYCUT AND KNIFEDGED

WEIGHT MATCHED FOR MAXIMUM ACCELERATION

PERFECT BALANCE X STATIC

FULL X STATIC BALANCE

RACE BEARINGS FULL SET ALLECULAR

MODIFIED OIL GALLERIES AND WAYS

BATHURST STARFIRE RODS FULL RACE TREATMENT

CRYOGENICALLY TREATED

FLAT TOP RACE JE FORGED PISTONS WITH ACCU GROOVES

LOW TENSION USA RINGS

ZERO DECKED AND FLYCUT FOR LARGE VALVES

CUSTOM MECHANICAL CAMSHAFT

HIGH SEAT TO SEAT VELOCITY LOBES FOR MAX PERFORMANCE

CHILLED IRON LIGHTWEIGHT LIFTERS

HELICAL CUT GEARS AND DEGREED CAMSHAFT

BLUEPRINTED ASSEMBLY

FULLY MODIFIED OIL PUMP AERO PRO

AWESOME 3/4 MOTOR LESS HEAD

WILL ACCEPT BLUE BLACK OR RED HEAD

bout $6000

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3.3 BLUE LONG MOTOR BORED TO 206 CUBIC INCH

PISTONS ACL HEAT TREATED SMALL DISH TOP .040

TOOL STEEL PINS AND MOLY RINGS LOW TENSION

CUSTOM EXTREME CRANKSHAFT FULL COUNTERBALANCED CNC MACHINED

BLOCK DECKED AND FLYCUT TO ACCEPT XU1 VALVES

BORES HAVE RECEIVED OUR FIVE STAGE HONING SUNNEN

TREATMENT WITH TORQUE PLATE

STARFIRE RACE PREPARED CONRODS

ALLECULAR BEARINGS BIMETAL FOR SEVERE DUTY

BLOCK HAS BEEN SONIC TESTED AND CHEMICALLY CLEANED

OIL GALLERY FLOW MODIFICATION FOR RELIABILITY

MAIN CAP STUDS AND LINE HONED TUNNEL

ALLOY TIMING GEARS AND DIALLED IN CAM ASSEMBLY

POWER BOND RACE BALANCER

HV OIL PUMP BLUEPRINTED

FULL X STATIC BALANCED ASSEMBLY

ENGINE BLUEPRINTED TO XU1 SPECS

FULLY PORTED RED XU1 HEAD FLOWTESTED

KIDNEY CHAMBER WITH LARGE PRO FLOW VALVES

DOUBLE VALVE SPRINGS RACE MANTON H11

CUSTOM CAMSHAFT SOLID BILLET 2500RPM TO 6900RPM

ROLLER ROCKERS 1.5 EXHAUST

ELECTRONIC DISTRIBUTOR CURVED AND SET

COMMODORE HIGH PERFORMANCE SUMP

CAIN INTAKE MANIFOLD HI PERF

350 HOLLEY CARB SET UP TO SUIT

PACEMAKER COMMODORE EXTRACTORS

ENGINE IS COMPLETE AND HAS BEEN DYNO TESTED

MAKES 184 HP AT REAR WHEELS

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