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Fitting 2 12" thermo fans

If I go ahead and fit 2 12" thermo fans, can I take off the big metal mechanical fan sitting on the engine? Car is a 253 HZ Kingswood. I have heard there are some advantages to removing the big heavy fan so i would like to do this. Also does that mean where the fan normally is keeps spinning or does that have to be disconnected somehow which doesn't seem possible?

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Ic3y Dragon's fans.

Firstly, you ought to look into grabbing a pair of Ford thermo's, they are fitted to a rectangular plastic shroud that is almost a match to the radiator you are using, ask around for which model Ford they are off as I'm unsure of the model.

All you will need to do, is carefully cut out an area in the plastic shroud for your radiator hoses to clear, and maybe the auto trans fittings, a neat little cut-out will see the job pretty much done. You just drill the mounting holes to suit the holes already in your radiator. Too easy.

Yes your mechanical fan can then be removed.
You undo the 4 bolts that hold the fan and its extension housing to the pulley and water pump, once removed reinstall the bolts, check first that they aren't too long though, as they may foul the water pump. I have never seen this happen, as the factory bolts are conveniently short enough to not require cutting or replacement when doing this kind of job. Just check they clear and you'll be fine.

All you will have then is the pulley bolted to the water pump.

If you opt for a different type of thermo set up, you will need to muck around fabricating brackets to mount them, I'd strongly urge you to go with these Ford units as they are very easy to set up, and they do a good job.

**Edit, I am talking about the bolts that hold a clutch fan, not a steel fixed fan with an aluminium extension housing. If you run a fixed fan, then yes, the bolts may need to be either shortened or replaced for smaller ones.

Look before you leap.....

Regards,
Ross.

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Im using the Ford AU fans

Im using the Ford AU fans and they are fantastic, cost was around $160 new, the sides just need to be shortened a bit and indentations cut for radiator hoses. Ive actually had mine wired up to a thermosat so they kick in automatically too, strongly recommend putting these fans on as you can sit in idling traffic for what seems like forever without any problems what so ever.

http://gallery.oldho...

I agree with monarosteve

I am pretty sure the ones we have on the Statesman are the same as yours monarosteve, and yeah, they do a great job. I wasn't sure of the model Ford they came from.

I recently rewired ours, running heavier wire as I found the wires did heat up a bit near the fuses. I don't know why, but we did have an issue arise with the wiring to the fans, where they would come on by themselves for no apparent reason, and then stop when they were needed. They blew fuses at times too, sometimes just 1, sometimes the 2.

I tired of searching for the cause, did the lolly and tore out all the wiring under the bonnet and rewired it all myself. After inspecting the wires upon removal I still couldn't find the cause of the problem. It remains a mystery to this day.

One thing I did notice though, was the old wiring had different thicknesses at different places within the wiring which could have been causing an issue, but they had been running without a problem for many years before this problem raised it's ugly head.

The fans we have here don't appear to have been trimmed at the sides.

Yes, running them automatically with a sender as well as a manual over-ride(switch on dash) is the way to go.

Yes I agree, you can sit for ever in traffic, on the hottest of days without stressing too much. The Statesman has quite a hot engine in it, yet those thermo's keep the temp at an acceptable level.

We use the manual over-ride all the time, with the automatic kick in as the backup.

I feel this is the best option for Ic3y Dragon's car.

Regards,
Ross.

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Fans

I fitted these up to ours, they work mint.

How I did it.

I got over enthusiastic with them but I'm glad I did, couldn't be happier with their performance. They're AU fans I think.

Cheers,
Shane.

*Email me*My Shed*The Perth Cruise Album*

HG383PREM

Hmmm...they look wicked, yours look much better than the ones we have here.

I just ducked out for a look and ours are different, more slimline, but with more daggy bits around the outsides. I'll take a pic later and add it to my shed.

I prefer the look of yours over the ones we have.

Good work.

Regards,
Ross.

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Can you stop at this

Can you stop at this step?

http://gallery.oldho...

Shed

Stop? What do you mean?

This is a similar result to what you will have when you are done. The fellow who modified these has gone way past they way in which mine are modified. These are very well done. He's done a wicked job.

You don't have to go that far unless you choose to.

Regards,
Ross.

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Thank you very much. Is it

Thank you very much. Is it necessary to do any welding as we don't have any access to any sort of welder here. I think Ford AU fans are the go. I was going to get 2 12" thermos off e-bay. They are very cheap and promise a lot.

http://cgi.ebay.com....

How do you fit a manual over ride in the car and how do you set what temperature the fan should kick in?

Shed

nup

No welding, pretty much a straight forward job.

You will need to buy a sender from an auto shop to suit your manifold, which you slip into one of the unused holes in the front of your manifold, just in front of the thermostat housing. This sender will already be set to kick in at a certain temp. Determine the setting when buying it.

If you look at the front of the manifold in our Statesman, in our shed pics, you will see the manifold has 2 brass fittings at the front, the one on the drivers side is the thermo sender, the one on the passenger side is for a warning light I think.

The over-ride switch is just wired in to manually kick the fans in, in place of the sender. It's a simple wiring job.

I never looked at your ebay fans, as you told me once before where you were planning on getting them, like I said then, he's a good bloke and all that, but I do feel these twin fan capers are much better than going for seperate fans and having to go through the saga of fabricating brackets to hold onto it all together.

These plastic shrouded fans are great, not so expensive either, and are a much easier way to go.

Have a look at HG383PREM's set up, as it's much nicer than mine. Mine might be an older version, likely from an EA Ford or something as we have had them on the car for quite a number of years.

I'll take some pics of ours later and stick them in the shed for you to look at, ours appear a little slimmer than HG383PREM's, but I'd be going with his style as it looks much more professional than mine.

Regards,
Ross.

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Ross fans

I don't know if I am being a help, or an hindrance, but an immaculate coupe turned up at the Brimbank park cruise, and he had his sender located through the top radiator hose.
It did look a little odd, but it must have worked alright.
I do agree with a manual over ride switch.
Shane's setup looks great, and dibs to you Shane for sharing.
But because of the metal fabrication it probably takes it away from the home enthusiast with limited tools.

Cheers.
Ged.

Disclaimer: I know absolutely nothing about cars and (puters).

I've seen them too Ged

Yeah, I've seen those set-ups too, years ago. My memory of them is a little jaded though, as the ones that managed to be brought to me for a little attention had usually developed leaks, due to the sender wire being snugged between the hose and the radiator outlet.

A bit cheap and nasty is how I view them, sorry.

If I was caught out and definitely had to run a sender and had no place to put it, I'd drill the manifold and tap it before I'd run one of those units.

Some people may have had successes with them, but I view them as being a weak link and I'm not fond of introducing stuff that could compromise the safe running of an engine, or stuff that could leave me stranded. I spent a bit of my youth out in the desert of W.A and learned fast about keeping engines cool(ish).

If it got down to it, I'd run without a gauge first.

Regards,
Ross.

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Senders

I had that type that goes into the top hose, it worked very well when I had the prem as a 350. When I went to put it back in with the 383, the bugger wouldn't stop dripping even with the rubber sealing doovy. Thats why i left it out, didnt have the patience at the time and have been happy without it at all.

Cheers,
Shane.

*Email me*My Shed*The Perth Cruise Album*

Rosco

I put them in upside down, the bum looked a lot better than the head :)

Cheers,
Shane.

*Email me*My Shed*The Perth Cruise Album*

bums sometimes do look better than heads...

Well what can I say to that? I myself find bums...female bums that is...do often look better than female heads, but I thought it was only me who thought like that.

Moving right along...

Yeah, I wanted to flip these over to hide the wiring when I rewired the engine bay recently, but whoever cut out the shroud for the bottom hose must have had an accident and cracked the shroud. The hole they cut was done with an axe by the looks of it. That buggered my plan right up so I had to leave them as they are.

Mine fans are definately different to yours, mine are fairly slim, likely on older version.

I like yours better, and when the time comes, I'll definately be snagging a set up like yours.

Regards,
Ross.

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would these fit

would these fit on a HZ running a 202 red? any idea were to source some?
cheers

Would it fit?

I assume you are running a standard 6 cyl radiator, which I think is similar in dimension to the V8 ones.

I am not 100% sure as to the sizes, but reckon they would be a close match.

Maybe ask an auto shop for the prices and quizz them on availability.

Keep the feelers out here on old holden and see if you can find someone who has done it before and can offer you all the info you need.

Have you had a look through holdenpedia?

Regards,
Ross.

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if you are running a heavy

if you are running a heavy duty 3 core 6 cylinder radiator yes you can make them fit with some cutting and playing around..

wombat

What is a good temperature

What is a good temperature to have the fans kick in? Apparently these cost about $60 and Super Cheap doesn't do the AU fans but an aftermarket model? These worth it or better off going to a wrecking yard and getting the Au fans their?

Shed

Not sure Ic3y Dragon

That depends on you, maybe try 95 degrees or something, get advice from the auto dude, see what's available. I can't remember what these kick in at, around 95-100 or so....not sure now.

I just went out and had a look at this one, it's a VDO sender, it has a bunch of different stuff stamped on it, It has (120 degrees C max) on it. I can't see under it to tell you what it may say other than that, and my eyes are no good anymore. I need my glasses but can't remember where I left them...

Go new fans, don't stroke around with second hand ones. The auto bloke may be meaning that they don't sell AU, as in genuine, but an aftermarket copy. Suss him right out.

Do this, make a paper template of your radiator, marking where your existing shroud bolts are, mark your hose points and trans points too. Take this along to the auto shop and lay the new fans down on the template to check for what you need to do in the way of modifying them.

Regards,
Ross.

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$300 brand new for the AU

$300 brand new for the AU fans from a Ford Dealer!!!! Um no way am i paying that much! Will have to look at the wrecking yards I think

Shed

be careful the after market

be careful the after market ones the guy at super cheap was talking about are probably like the ones you were going to buy of ebay..

ALSO when you wire them up make sure you run them thru a relay and if there twin speed use a relay for each speed thermo fans draw alot of current on start up ...

wombat

Agreed wombat

I run a relay for each fan, single speed, it's either on or off. They do make a bit of noise coz they are drawing a lot of air, fast. It doesn't take long for the temp needle to begin dropping, and it drops pretty fast.

Regards,
Ross.

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Get onto monarosteve

Ask monarosteve where he scored his $160 setup. From memory, ours were similarly priced, years ago.

Here's a tip you should take onboard...Never, but never ask a Ford dealer anything ever again, they are total filth matey, the absolute scum of the earth.
Practice up on your Holden scowl, and chuck it all Ford dealerships in future. ;)

Keep the feelers out, you will snag your fans at a reasonable price. Have you been steered wrong yet?

Regards,
Ross.

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ross your fans could be

ross your fans could be ef-el falcon fans the first time the fords had thermo fans , they are slimmer than the latter au type, ive got about 5 sets of them,some of them have twin speeds some only a single speed i think it was the earlier
ef that had the twin speed fans and the latter el went to a single speed , or visa versa ......
you could also use the thermo fan sender switch from a vb-vk commodore that had thermo fan fitted for the air conditioning
most thermo fan sender/switches dont turn on till around 90 to 100 degree c ..

i got mine fans from the wreckers $40.00 per set up..
have seen some at swap meets also ..

wombat..

Fans

Sheesh, I cant remember exactly how much I got my fans for, Quents1tonner built the radiator and got the fans for me when he was working at a radiator shop. I think it was around 150ish. From vague memory they weren't genuine ones either.

Rosco, mine used to have all the dags on the side but I trimmed them all off as I made the brackets to fit inside the shroud. The bottom of them was nice & smooth, the top had all ribs & crap on them thats why I turned them over and yes some of the fairer sexs bums look better than their heads :)

I think 6 cyl radiators are narrower, They are in a HG anyway.

Mine are hooked up direct, turn the switch on they stay on. I didnt worry about the thermostat switch, i've got one but cant be bothered putting it in.

Cheers,
Shane.

*Email me*My Shed*The Perth Cruise Album*

Icy3 Dragon

I just had snoop on ebay for thermo's, and there are a few pairs there, EA-AU XR6-XR8, all sorts, reasonably priced too.

Regards,
Ross.

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Hey wombat

What do you reckon would be a rough cost estimate for a complete set up, fans, sender, and switch along with wiring? To give the young fella an idea.

Regards,
Ross.

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new au style fans with the

new au style fans with the built in shrouds you are only going to get genuine type ones like that either ford , nissan , toyota nearlly all of them have thermo fans nowdays and have for the last 7-9 years, buying new is expensive ..
you often see new ford ones at swap meets for between $150.00 to $200.00....
A new thermo switch can be between $25.00 to $40.00 depending on the type you get a single terminal type ( most common now days ) or the twin terminal type , both are good but work different ways the older style twin terminal one has a power wire in to it and when it reaches the temp its set at the power then flows thru to the fan or the relay depending how you have it wired , the single terminal one works on the earth principle when it reaches the temperature it completes the earth circuit again either to the relay or the fan..
you can go to the ..

i get all my stuff from the wreckers or swap meet.
ford twin thermos ef-el au onwards $45.00
thermo fan sender/switch $5.00 use a mitsubishi magna one from bottom of radiator , or holden commodore or hz one,
realy $5.00 each ( new) , switch on dash new $5.00 , roll of electrical wire $7.00 (new ) , some wiring terminals pack $5.00 (new)
if you brought the fan and thermo switch s/h you could do it all for around $60.00 to $70.00..

ICY you could buy those 2 12 inch fans you were looking at
they are not hard to mount they dont have a nice shroud around them if you got them for $40.00 ea by the time you brought your relays and wiring thermos switch it would probably cost between $110.00 to $120.00....

those thermo wire switches that went into the radiator hoses they were the old graig davis electric fan thermo switches of the late 70s and early 80s the went to adjustable unit where you could adjust when the fan switched on so u could have it coming on when it was abit cooler or abit hotter, so u could adjust it to come on a bit earlier on a hot day and latter on a cold day , there was no set temp it worked at it was fully adjustable just by turning the knob/shaft u could turn it down so low that it nearly would come on straight away ..

wombat

Ic3y Dragon

Whatever fans you decide on, do NOT get the one with the sender unit that fits in your radiator top hose.
They are crap, and will leak over time, trust me I'm smart :-))
[EDIT] I'm not really,Ross and Shane explain this earlier :-))]
Cheers.
Ged.

Disclaimer: I know absolutely nothing about cars and (puters).

Now now Ged

I wouldn't go so far as to say anything bad about you mate, quite the opposite.

My memory of those ones, which wombat has identified as Davies Craig items from the hippy era or a bit later, were as I recall, a bit of a hit back then, they seemed to be a "must have" bit of gear all those years ago.

Times change as you know, these days you can get "better" gear that is worry free.

Having said that, and for example, they say you can get a drug called Viagra these days, not that I need it myself, I'm just using this as an example, well back in the old days you had to settle for a couple of paddle pop sticks and an elastic band to rig up a splint.

Pretty easy to see which is the better way to go there, well choosing a thermo sender could be looked at in the same light, go the easy way or go the rugged way......

Sorry if my comparison causes anyone to get a crinkly brow.

Regards,
Ross.

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Hippy era ?

Your clever, I remember nothing from those days, lol.

"Never, under any circumstances, take a sleeping pill and a laxative on the same night."

"Republic of Dusty's Shed"
Pigeon hole

My cost was as

My cost was as follows....
Radiator recoed - $220
AU fans - $150, luckily i have a mate who used to own a wreckers and had these left and were new
Wiring done professionally - $200 for that visit but did do some work on my indicators and headlights aswell.

My temp control is wired out of the top hose, it dont look that pretty but it works! Not too worried about appearance in my engine bay ATM

http://gallery.oldho...

I can get a new set of AU

I can get a new set of AU fans for $220. They aren't genuine Ford but apparently are identical to the originals just a lot cheaper. Sender unit is $60. this has turned expensive fast.

Also what do you all mean by running it through a relay? This issue has given me a huge headache unfortunately :s

Shed

Icy3's prices

Could be about right price wise, you may still get a cheaper set if you look around and don't jump right in.

Ok, 2 fans will need 2 relays, 1 per fan. They are about $6-$8 each from memory.

It's not as big a deal as you imagine, both fans need a power source, which is your battery. You mount the relays side by side, feed each one power. Each one will in turn feed 1 fan. You link the 2 relays via a piggyback kind of setup, very easy to do. All you are doing is activating the 2 relays by 1 wire(switch) which is linked to the sender as well.

When the time comes, we can get a wiring diagram to you that will take away the headaches.

Regards,
Ross.

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AS ross sayes wiring up

AS ross sayes wiring up relays is no hassel the relay pins are numbered you have a power supply from your battery , another power supply from your switch or and sender ( if use that type of sender>) then a wire to positive side of the fan , then a earth .. thats it for a 4 pin relay.
the hardest part is wiring the switch in your dash and running the wire thru the firewall to the relay, you also need to tap a wire from your fuse panel to supply power to your switch..

wombat

i believe the original fans

i believe the original fans were made by bosch..

if you dont run it thru a relay , it will draw to much current for your wiring and cause it to melt / burn out , maybe even a fire ..

A RELAY is
A relay is an electrical switch that opens and closes under the control of another electrical circuit. In the original form, the switch is operated by an electromagnet to open or close one or many sets of contacts. . Because a relay is able to control an output circuit of higher power than the input circuit, it can be considered to be, in a broad sense, a form of an electrical amplifier.( thanks wikipedia for this bit.).

wombat

Will I need a relay on the

Will I need a relay on the HEI or just hook up the original coil wires?

Shed

ive never fitted your type

ive never fitted your type of electronic ignition so i am not real sure , but i would say you need to fit a new heavy gage wire that supplys power to the coil and not use your resistor wire that is there now...
BUT Rossco1 might be able to answer this better than me..

wombat

Icy3 Dragon's HEI

Nup...just the single wire mate, the yellow one, fit a female connector to it and connect it to your dizzy and away you go.

Just tape off the black wire that's left over.

No need to use a bigger wire. I never bothered, mine's fine as is.

Regards,
Ross.

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Why Run a New Heavy Wire for HEI?

For true HEI, I agree with Wombat.

Here are the reasons, I note your car is an HZ as is mine.

1. It will work from the yellow wire but not to full advantage.

2. The yellow wire is only active in the ignition switch "on" position. It dies under cranking in HZ and UC. Much of the time you won't notice depending on how you are used to using the ignition switch. The yellow wire only allows the ignition to spark when you release the key.

3. The original coil draws 3 amps and the HEI 7 amps average. The peak current can be much higher. It's always best to make sure any cable is rated for the task at hand.

4. EFI VK's came standard with 30 amp wire and that's one instance where GMH wanted to get the best out of the black motor.

5. You want to get the most spark from your investment in efficiency (read both fuel economy and performance).

6. Unless you have run extra Primary Feeds ( as per the Dim Lights H page) you increased the load on the standard wiring. Running a new feed from the Starter Tap will completely remove the ignition load from the dash board which gives you a double gain.

T

Shed
Holdenpaedia, they're the brakes Mate.

T

Icy3 Dragon is running a 1 wire HEI, it only needs the 1 wire, the yellow. It's designed that way.

I have one in my HZ 253, it works very well and I have no cranking issues or hard to start issues.

Regards,
Ross.

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Disagree ...

... for the reasons stated, but you're right about the yellow wire becoming active under cranking now I think further on it.

It's the Ballast Wire that gets disconnected under cranking as evidenced by the half illuminated dash lights when the key is halfway between "on" and "start". Current is running from the yellow wire along the Ballast Wire and into the
Ignition Feed that powers the wipers/blinkers/dash light etc.

The yellow wire is only active under cranking on HZ and UC. Once the ignition switch is released to the "on" position the yellow wire between the ignition switch and the bulkhead connector is disconnected and the coil is fed by the Ballast Wire join at the bulkhead connector via a second length of yellow wire.

That connection is a cause for burning of the bulkhead connector because of the resistive heat generated there.

The coil length of yellow wire does not get full voltage in the "on" position because it is fed from the Ballast Wire.

I've altered both my cars to have start and run 30 amp feeds
direct from the ignition switch because I don't want any chance of a relay dropping out under heavy cranking with a
low Battery and I want the maximum spark energy at all times, especially under heavy cranking.

It's easy enough to get access to the Ignition Switch by dropping the Steering Colum and wiring directly to the Switch.

Using a relay reduces the load on the yellow and Ballast wires because the relay only draws about an amp, less than the original coil's 3 amps, so running from the ballast resistance reduces the load on the original ignition wires.

Bosch HEI only needs one power wire and that should provide
maximum Battery/Alternator voltage whenever the ignition is on.

T

Shed
Holdenpaedia, they're the brakes Mate.

I hear ya T

I was sceptical about the claims surrounding these new dizzy's myself and looked into it a little further, taking the one I purchased around to trusted people and seeking advice.

Apparently there were issues with this type of dizzy relating to the circuitry in the beginning, which appears to have been addressed and rectified.

These "streetfire" type dizzy's have the coil built into the top of the cap and there is only 1 wire needed to run the whole show. The wiring instructions from the manufacturer advise to use this 1 ignition wire.

There is no distinction between different car models, it simply states to use the 1 wire that goes to the old dizzy that has power with ignition on. I put a test light on mine and found it to be the yellow. I don't have the instructions at hand just now to relay the procedure verbatim. I simply taped off the other wire(black).

I have absolutely no idea as to how they've managed to get these things to run in this fashion.

Regards,
Ross.

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Q

Thanks for pointing out that yellow wire thing.

Congratulations on getting your Q finished. It looks superb.

T

Shed
Holdenpaedia, they're the brakes Mate.

Is this everything that I

Is this everything that I need to get it onto the car?

http://cgi.ebay.com....

Shed

Icy3 Dragons AU fans

That would cover your fan needs for sure, providing the dimensions are ok, did you download the dimensions and check them against your radiator yet? Remember they will need to be modified slightly to fit you radiator.

I note the sale is just for the fans themselves, no other stuff. That's ok, still a good deal, that price is 1/2 what your friendly neighbourhood Ford dealer quoted you.

After you get yourself a good sender(like a VDO), a switch, 2 relays and the wiring and fuse holders, you will still have a pocket full of change before you reach his quoted price.

Get further advice from other members here with regard to these AU fans, as they are similar to mine, not the same. I expect they are pretty much the same and the modification will be simple.

*** I should say too, that Streetneat made a good point the other day when he said that he can't understand why people change a system that is already a proven winner, as in the standard system.

Do you really need thermo's?

Regards,
Ross.

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Thanks Ross

I was just about to make the same point that Streetneat made in his comment on THIS thread.
It takes nothing away from what you and Shane have achieved but does highlight the fact that the motor fan, moves air around the motor all the time, and not just when the radiator/motor temp rises.
It would be interesting if someone could exactly calculate the power the motor fan actually uses, as in the power gain achieved by removing it?
But the point of circulating the air (under bonnet) cannot be ignored.

Cheers.
Ged.

Disclaimer: I know absolutely nothing about cars and (puters).

in heavy traffic I am

in heavy traffic I am constantly overheating. in hot weather it is far far worse. So yes I believe I do need thermos. I have been told that the old holdens are known to overheat in heavy traffic and not getting any air flow through them that is why I am looking at the thermo fan option. The Flexlite fan option sounds interesting. I have never heard of this so would be interested to hear more about it.

Do other old holdeners consider thermo fans necessary?

My radiator has very recently been resealed and pressure tested and flushed. There is a new thermostat 160degree. The only thing else it can be is my idle is far too high about 1000rpm to compensate for the fact that my accelerator pump is a bit shabby which will be fixed next week when the carby goes in. When the HEI goes in hopefully the timing will be perfect again helping the overheating. If all this doesn't solve the overheating issue then yes I will definatley be looking at thermo fans as I can't think of any other option?

Shed

Ic3y Dragon

Yep, it's true the 253's run a bit hotter than everyone would like, and it's usually only a small thing that sets them off all cranky and finding the problem is hard sometimes.

You say at the begining of this post that you have a mechanical fan, is it a multi bladed clutch fan or the 4 blade steel fixed one?

Do you have a shroud around your fan?

There is a small horsepower gain by going to thermo's but a the end of the day, you really can't beat good old fashioned mechanicals.

If you opt to go thermo fans, it's wise to run a temp guage as well, for your own peace of mind.

With thermo's you are always watching the guage when running at low speeds and sitting in traffic, keeping an eye on things as if they blow a fuse or let you down in any way, you don't have much time to react and do something about it.

I am constantly monitoring that temp guage, even when I'm the passenger, it becomes a habit. You learn to predict when the fans are about to engage and you wait for them, ready to react if they don't play the game. Fortunately they make a bit of noise so you will be able to hear them kick in and out.

The over-ride switch is your friend too, you will find yourself engaging the fans before they kick in automatically, you will also engage them manually in traffic.

It's really up to you which way you go here.

Keep us informed of what your plans are and we'll see how we can help you.

Your carby...did you go for a reco stromberg? There is a seller on ebay who does good deals on either change overs or straight up sales.

I paid $180 for mine, exchange, fitted and tuned.

I realise you are up where you are, but postage is about $20 to there. If you scored the carb, delivered for $200(outright sale), your doing pretty good.

Regards,
Ross.

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My dad helped me rebuild

My dad helped me rebuild another Stromberg he picked up for $30 at some wreckers. Apparently was missing a few parts which is going to come off my old carby along with the rebuild kit that has been run through it. fingers crossed.

What do they do when they tune the carby?? As I predominately run LPG I doubt it really matters but I would like everything running right.

The current fan in there is a big metal fan with about 7 blades?? It is huge is all I know.

Shed

IC3y Dragon's fan

Ok, if it's got a great big heavy set of multiple blades then it's likely a factory clutch fan, you can determine this simply by trying to turn it by hand(engine stopped of course), the blades should be able to be turned by hand even though the centre part that's bolted to the water pump remains stationary.

To set the carby to roughly where you need it, I can go out and record the settings on mine and post up what mine are set at, that should get you close to where you need it to be.

Remember too that strombergs carby's that have had a snorkel type gas hat fitted are prone to warping at the top, this can lead to rough running and poor performance, consider this aspect when rebuilding the one you scored from the wreckers. As gas has been around for a long time and that carb is quite old, it may have been fitted with a gas hat in the past and could be warped. That's why I opted for a professionally rebuilt carb and that's why I suggested you go that way.

That said, if you are running a snorkel, ensure it's braced, there is usually a bolt hole 1/2 way along the "arm" that enables you to fit a brace which in turn bolts to a manifold bolt(I think). I have been super slack and have not bothered to brace mine yet.

Nice to hear your dad is giving you a bit of a hand.

Regards,
Ross.

My Shed
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flexlite fans

where can ya get them?
cheers

alternator

just bought a hq holden premier with a warm 350 chev motor. Im having problems with the alternator, its straining when the fans kick in. Im running electronic ignition, elec water pump and elec twin thermo fans. the car runs fine until the fans kick in. Then it squeaks and clunks when put under load. The alt is heavy duty but unsure of amperage. Also the headlights dim significantly when fans cut in. Can someone please help me...

Electrical Load

" Im having problems with the alternator, its straining when the fans kick in."

That's a good thing. It means less load for the Battery.

"Im running electronic ignition, elec water pump and elec twin thermo fans."

You will need uprated leads to support all this stuff.
Make sure the Alternator Feed, Primary Feed and Ground Cables are large enough for the electrical load you have.

Info here ...

http://holdenpaedia....

"the car runs fine until the fans kick in. Then it squeaks and clunks when put under load. The alt is heavy duty but unsure of amperage. Also the headlights dim significantly when fans cut in. Can someone please help me..."

Fans should have a separate circuit from the Primary Feed.

You will need a 550 CCA Battery to cover the load at idle.

Thermo fan wiring here ...

http://holdenpaedia....

T

My Shed
Holdenpaedia, they're the brakes Mate.


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