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Bleeding Brakes!!

The problems never end... but I have a list to work through from the initial test drive, and it's getting shorter....
The brakes seemed to bleed easily (complete new system). Once the engine was running, the pedal seems to go to the floor much easier (all the way to the floor..). Brakes not so good. I have bled, re-bled, and tripple bled the system using every technique I know of. I have also tried to reverse bleed them by pumping fluid back up the lines from each wheel. I am now about to make up a little plate to clamp over the master cylinder to pressure bleed the system. Before I try this, does anyone have any useful gems to help solve this problem?
Cheers again,
Rob

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got the calipers the right way around?

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Yup

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The LCGTRestoration is finished... it's on the road so time for a new handle. Look out for 71LCGTR

DRIP bleed it one wheel at a time. start at LH rear wheel open bleeder 1/2 a turn DO NOT TOUCH OR PUMP BRAKE PEDAL.. Let it drip bleed for 5-7 min make sure master cylinder never runs out of fluid , close this bleeder , then do RH rear the same , then when thats done , do LH FRONT For same amount of time , then do RH front ... at all times make sure the master cylinder dose not run out of fluid and do not touch/pump brake pedal to all 4 brakes are done and bleeders locked ...

all bleeder's on wheel cylinders and calipers must be at the top..
push rod in booster to master cylinder must have very slight free play before pushing on master cylinder piston when master cylinder bolted up to booster...
make sure pipes to wheel cylinders and calipers are done up tight..
junction block below master cylinder there should be a switch in the middle of it for the brake warning light , once you have bleed all brakes and done bleeders up remover switch pump brake pedal a couple of times put switch back in and connect wire..

wombat..

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You can type faster than me :-))

Cheers.
Ged.

Disclaimer: I know absolutely nothing about cars.

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I'm right 98% of the time. Who cares about the other 3%.

[Postcode 3518]

G'day Rob.
I must admit your post has got me somewhat confused.
You say you have a "complete new system" could you please elaborate on this?
For example: Is everything "new" from the booster through to the master cylinder, lines, fittings, etc.?
It sounds to me you have still got air in your system if your pedal is going "all the way to the floor" after three bleeds.
Sorry I can't be of any instant help to you, but it sounds to me that, you are doing something basically wrong.

This is done a lot easier with two people.
Make sure the reservoirs are full.
Place a tube over the bleed nipple, the other end of the tube must be submerged in a container of fluid.
Crack the bleed nipple of the longest line first.
Get someone to press the brake pedal to the floor.
(Communication is crucial)
When they have done this, and fluid is flowing through the tube, tighten the nipple, and get them to release the pedal. Open the nipple again and get them to depress the pedal, tighten the nipple, and get them to release the pedal.
Repeat this process until there are no air bubbles coming through the tube.
Move onto the next longest line and repeat the process, until you have no air bubbles in the system.
NOTE: If any of the above procedures are compromised, you must start again. Also top up the reservoirs regularly.
All this is done without the engine running, and when finished you should be able to feel the pedal pressure.
HTH.

Cheers.
Ged.

Disclaimer: I know absolutely nothing about cars.

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I'm right 98% of the time. Who cares about the other 3%.

[Postcode 3518]

DO not confuse what ged is saying and what i am suggesting , geds way is one way pressure bleeding it , my way drip bleeding is another ...
by the way when you are doing it Geds way you need to remove the brake warning light switch from the brake juncton block
and put it back in once you have finished , and no it wont suck air thru there if its working properly ..

wombat..

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thy bleeding the brakes with whe engine running, as the assistance from the booster will hopefully force any air out.. i've done this a few times at work and it works ok. and before i get accused of butchery or told that it'll damage things, it doesn't(at least not yet,lol)

joycey

never late in a 308

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never late in a 308

I don't know how well you primed your master cylinder
but I put them in a vise and make sure they're fully bled before I put a replacement one on the car.

If the master cylinder has been adequately bled and bleeding the rest of the car is no longer releasing air, then I think your master cylinder is worn out and allowing fluid to spill past the piston.

Don't get caught by the old "short push rod" problem.
Sometimes the master cylinder pushrod has come from the wrong car and is too short to provide full travel of the master piston.

T

Shed
Holdenpaedia, they're the brakes Mate.

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T

My Shed

Holdenpaedia, they're the brakes Mate.

Sounds like a faulty Master Cylinder to me Rob. It may be leaking at the rear or just the rubbers inside have perished.

I didn't get an E-mail about the headlight aiming chart. Did you get it sorted?

Cheers...Dave

"Search more, Post less"

>E-mail Me
Qute's Shed

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Cheers...Dave

"Search more, Post less"

>E-mail Me
Qute's Shed

also a basic one, is to check (if your running drums)that they are just off touching the drum, when the brakes not on , if there not, they might be taking up nothing before they bite cousing the pedal to go all the way down???
postbox [http://gallery.oldho...|mygirls]
"[http://finsspraypain...|spraypainting]"
times are ruff, times are hard, so here's your bloody Xmas card

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Modified is horrified

i think t is on the case.
you can "bench bleed" the master cylinder still on the car by cracking the brake line nuts one at a time, starting closest to the booster.
but watch the fluid on the paint etc.

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A couple of years back had the same trouble with the HQ Ute, very spongey pedal after repeatedly bleeding brakes and then resorting to putting a new master cylinder on, still no good. Got the heads up from the good folk here @ Old Holden twas the rear drum brakes not adjusted properly, problem solved!!!!!!!!!!! Doh!

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