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she broke down.......

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she broke down today..... I am not exactly sure what is going on just yet. Initial checks of the module, cap, rotor and coil checked out ok, just incase something was overlooked a new module and coil was fitted(leads/plugs are new), it is strange because the motor does fire briefly before continuing to crank over, then will fire again for a very short moment before cranking over again. I am of the opinion that it is in the ignition system because even if the fuel line was blocked off and a cap full of fuel was poured down the carb(ie run out of fuel scenario) The engine should fire for more than 1 second, i suppose the other scenario is that i could of stripped a tooth or two off the distributor OR the distributor has moved....suggestions anyone?

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Pull the whole car to pieces, sandblast the shell and panels, etc etc etc Then ask me in 18-20 months !!! Sorry mate I cant help ya, Sounds like the usual teething probs, cant be too serious, hope ya get her sorted soon!!!

Cheers BOBBY ========~ 8{)
>mail no spam

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TELL SOMEONE WHO CARES

mate i feel it for ya i remember getting mine on the road i'd be at work on a friday wacthing the clock so i could go home and get my car out but for 3 fridays in a row she came home on a tow truck!!
GoodLuck champ

cheers
Adam

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Cheers
Adam

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sound like a condenser problem but that wouldnt have one in the distributor would it??

Very nice by the way it is a real credit to you

regards moo

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regards moo

Hi
Try another dissy and see what happens, whens the rear 1/4 getting the trim fitted
Chears Neil

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another thought could it be the Fuel pump or seeing that everything is new there hasn't been a vaccum created from the tank in some way

regards
Moo

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regards moo

Hey love the coupe dude, had what sounds to be a similar problem with my coupe a few weeks ago and it drove me crazy, seemed like it was on the verge of starting, then cranked over for a second or so then nothing. I ended up paying to get it fixed and the explinaion was when the coil was firing it cut/drained power to the starter except for a brief instant when i released the ignition so maybe double check your wiring or perhaps your battery isnt strong enough? Good luck with it

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"I ended up paying to get it fixed and the explanation was when the coil was firing it cut/drained power to the starter except for a brief instant when i released the ignition "

I'd agree with this when HEI conversions are done. Sometimes the ignition is dead during cranking and only activates in the "on" position if the wiring is incorrect.

Try wiring directly from the battery +ve to the coil +ve.

Also check to see that the pickup coil hasn't migrated and the reluctor to pickup coil clearance is still there. I recommend using the allen screws which are reliable. If the Bosch HEI distributor has screws used there they can work loose short out the coil pulses. The ignition will fire occasionally as the reluctor drags the outer ring around.

T

[http://www.oldholden... | Holdenpaedia]

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T

My Shed

Holdenpaedia, they're the brakes Mate.

its not verey relierbal mate also woud looke better panted red

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two of the strangest things ive seen lately are tank not breathing and being ok for a few k's then all of a sudden engine bogs down stalls and wont start mates VL did it a bit ago i went right round the car thinking what the hell is going on! then in a fit i undone the petrol cap and heard PFFFFFFFFFFFT and away it went :/

also another a friends HJ sedan the ignition switch (activated by the pin from the barrel) had moved and was starting one day and not the next

also with T's hei tip about the coil being ok in on but not crank my WB tonner is done the same way they hooked a button but it cranks but if u crank and keep cranking it wont start but short fast stabs of the button and away it goes.

My site

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check your earth to the coil had a similar prob and all it was wzas a bad earth even tho it was going straight to battery made a short earth wire to body (not bat and she was all good) just another thing you could check.

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Sounds like a Common problem that you get on a Points Ignition , Even thou yours is HEI.

When the Ignition switch is on START , The Coil is Fed Full Battery Voltage ( 13.2 Volts Approx ) & when on Run the Coil Voltage drops back to 8 Volts approx .

The Full Voltage on Crank is to give a Nice HOT spark to fire the engine & after it's fired 8 Volts is enough to allow run.

MANY Others have touched on it , Make Sure you are Getting 12+ Volts to the Coil & Distributor all the TIME & the Earthing is also correct

Make sure the In the wiring loom Ballast resistance has been bypassed.

Don't discount the ignition switch as the are a common failure & easy / cheap to replace.

Good Luck , I'm sure is not going to be a big problem

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Does sound to me like no timing, but that's only a guess

Patients and lots of checking and double checking will sort it.

Good Luck.

nobody.

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Check the power from your ignition switch to the coil - I had an issue where there was only power get there on cranking - not with the key in the on position - does it have a ballast resistor?

Email

Shed

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