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EFI 202 Wont Start

Hey all,
I have been having some greif with my 202EFI torana. I originaly started of accidently blowing up the EFI unit by hooking up the computers + and - the wrong way. I got a new unit from the wreckers and the car started first go. So I taped up all the computers wiring and what not and went to start it again...

But it didnt start.

Now the car turns over, but wont fire into life. The only wires that I taped were the wires on the starter and the wires on the coil.
I have disconnected and re-connected the brown wire from the computer to the dizzy several times and even went as far as installing a new cable from the computer to the negative side of the dizzy.
Replaced the coil and checked the rotor button in the dizzy

Still doesnt start.

Put new fittings on the starter wires, and still doesnt start.
All it does it just keep turning over.
I have plenty of fuel and the fuel relay kicks in fine. I also have plenty of spark.
My battery is now almost out of juice so its on charge for the night.
Can anybody please suggest some things I may be missing. I have check and rechecked all my fuses also.

I have tried turning the car over with no pedal, half pedal and full pedal and still no start.

I seriously have no idea what else it could be....It ran fine one minute, and now nothing. Obviously the Torana gods hate me

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LXTorry EFI

Have a look Here and Here.

If they don't give you the answer, send me an E-mail and I'll send you some other trouble-shooting information tonight.

Cheers...Dave

"Think more, Post less"

E-mail Me
Qute's Shed

::TORANA

::TORANA NUT::
http://www.cardomain...

Thanks for the links, I found searching for EFI and VK was difficult due to having less than 4 letters.
I read through the notes and checked the negative line again, but I still cant get it to start.
I will send you an email regarding this. Cheers

Any other help would also be great.

Battery Disconnection

The battery must be disconnected before connecting or disconnecting
the ECU. If not, you will likely blow-up the ECU.

T

Injector Pulse Checker

Jacks emailed me the image of a test lamp that can be wired across one of the injectors to see if it is pulsing.

You can make one yourself. Make sure you use a small wattage bulb (like a number plate light bulb, about 2 watts). Anything bigger may overload the ECU.

The lamp should flash when the Engine is cranked over each time
that injector line is pulsed (the EFI VK fires all 6 injectors
simultaneously).

Remove the clip from one injector and work out a way to wire the
bulb in.

If there is no flash then you will have to follow the trail from there.

1. Are igntion pulses getting from the coil negative to the computer?
2. Are the injector pulses leaving the ECU.

The Gregory's VK manual has a brillaint EFI troubleshooting aid in the back. You'll need a voltmeter. Follow their prompts and you'll find the solution.

T

EFI Torry

Spot on T...disconnecting or reconnecting the computer MUST be done with the battery disconnected.

The other common problem is the computer plug doesn't QUITE stay in tight enough for a good connection. Some Cable-ties or a big hoseclamp around the computer and the connection helps sometimes...

Cheers...Dave

"Think more, Post less"

E-mail Me
Qute's Shed

The plug in to the computer

The plug in to the computer needs to be in TIGHTLY use a large hose clip like off a truck exhaust or something and screw it up tight around the plug and computer.
Make sure the terminals are clean.
For the test probe the safest way is to use a LED I mounted one into an old probe I removed the original fuse type light and wired in the LED, make sure the ends are wired properly the LED will only work one way as they are positive centred.
Most Gregorys have a diagram showing the resistor etc to use, costs about $3 to make.
See if you can find another EFI VK to test the computer on, but do the right thing and disconnect their battery before mucking about with the terminals, you may have blown the computer already they are 20 years old.

johnperth

Thanks for all the reply's.

Thanks for all the reply's. I have made sure that after the last prob with the EFI computer that I had the battery disconnected every time I removed the computer. I will have another look 2day at my wiring and will also try hook up a light on the injectors using a reverse light from my other car.
Thanks

I will write down all the

I will write down all the steps I took from when the car was running until it didnt:
-Disconnected Battery
-Pluged in EFI unit
-Connected Battery, turned key, car started
-Disconnected battery,
-Taped up wiring on starter away from exhaust
-Taped up wiring on coil and placed in a heatsheild sleve.- the wires in this sleeving were, the sender attached to the drivers side of the engine (air flow related), negative wire, and positive wire for fuel pump relay.
-Connected battery
-Car didnt start.
I assumed that something may have come loose so I checked terminals, starter plugs and coil plugs, fuses, rewired negative coil wire directly over engine from efi unit to coil.
The car still wont start, if I let it sit long enough it will cought once and thats it.
The new EFI unit is less than 48 hours old and was checked by an auto electrician before purchase and it passed. It also started the car 4 times without worry first go every go.
I must be missing something and I hope that an outsiders opinion will help me figure out whats wrong.
Cheers

Connector Checks.

There's still many variables to check.

The Engine Temperature Sensor (Manifold Side of the Engine at the Front). When it fails the mixture becomes extremely rich. That might explain the cough after a long delay. Plug in a new sensor and leave it hanging loose and taped up to test it.

Alternatively, measure the resistance of the one you have and check it
against the value it's supposed to be.

Also, you can check all the sensors with a Meter at the Computer Connector. The Gregory's manual will give you tests for every part of the Engine. There are only about 12 pins to test and most of them can
be done from inside the cockpit. (Starter Line, Throttle Idle, Throttle Wide, Coil Pulses, Intake Air Temp Resistance, Engine Temperature Resistance, Power On, Injector Pulses out, etc, etc)

I'm sure Qute has provided some superb info,
but just in case it's not covered, pull the activation line off the
Starter Solenoid. Check that the Fuel Pump starts when you roll the Ignition Key to the Start Position.

If it doesn't, check the pump, pump fuse and that power from
the Tachometric Relay is getting to the pump. I recall you saying that
the relay clicked on and off with the Ignition Switch, but it may not be making contact properly.

The Tachometric Relay turns on power to the computer, the Fuel Pump and the Injectors from separate contacts. It's possible that it
can still be faulty.

T

Further Thoughts

"-Taped up wiring on coil and placed in a heatsheild sleve.- the wires in this sleeving were, the sender attached to the drivers side of the engine (air flow related), negative wire, and positive wire for fuel pump relay."

This is my first suspicion. The Starter Line connection must be OK
because you say that the Tacho Relay pulls in.

You must use an HEI dizzy, Module and matching Coil otherwise the results will be unpredictable.

The pickup wires inside the HEI can crossfire on occasion. Make sure
they are not lying on top of one another and being crushed together.

The Coil negative can let go with about 100 volts which can cross talk
into the tiny pick-up wires and prevent the Engine starting.

T

EFI 202 Wont Start

Did you check the pump is still getting power? Remember when my VN pump had the dick (ran it low on feul) and would do the same, ie give a little cough if left for a while. Should be able to hear it for a couple of seconds after turning the ignition on.


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