Another Car Paint Thread

great find mate! i had a good flick through that thread, seems to be some very happy customers.
this may be just the thing for my hk kingy, the body repairs i've done to it has left patches everywhere and i was starting to stress over how much a respray was gonna cost (way more than the car is worth)
according to the rustoleum website, 2 aussie distributors are
http://superiorcoatings.com.au
http://www.dymark.com.au/
but you'd prolly find it in the shops if you look around.

shed
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there are no stupid questions only stupid people

Now my question would be, is Wattyl killrust paint nearly the same, as it is easy to get from bunnings/anywhere and I have a tin of paint here that I got from bunning a while ago called Tremco Metal armor, simular name to what the guy used, tremclad, funny that, must be the same stuff.
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cheers Gary.

i find that amazing would like to see close close up to see if you can see the roller marks or not

apparently if you can thin the paint to a suitable mix it will self level, even on vertical surfaces. the guy recommended at least 6 coats with a 1000 grit sanding every 2 layers (i'd go 1200), no primer needed either. also he says 'Tremclad is basically rust paint, but it is the new type which is a enamal.'
sounds like killrust.

shed
holdenpedia
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there are no stupid questions only stupid people

Would cost more than 50 measly dollars once you factor in using compound (coarse medium & fine) sandpaper, prepping materials, thinners, brushes and whatever else etc etc.

Im reserving my judgement. Photos do ALOT of justice to a cars paintwork.
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Gees a 4 litre tin of paint costs 50 bucks here.

There is an Australian guy that posted here that has used Tremco Metal Armour that you can get here (at bunnings), in fact I have a 4 litre can of the stuff so I can try it on the HR.

This is all about Budget car painting where you dont need any spray paint gear just a foam roller and some time.

there is a close up shot here
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cheers Gary.

$50 sounds right, i will go check this 44 page thread another time, near bed for me, Anyway, bearing in mind, i've not gone to this 44 page thread yet to see what they say yet; But i can vouch for a jamjob using either a brush or roller , no wet rubbing, just rough sand the old duco till it loses the years of wax and polish or grease and grime, Prepsol it if you wanna go big budget and get lavish, but C'mon maaate, Spoiling the theme with such pomp'n'ceremony. So yeah...You've spent five or seven minutes washing your car in the usual style that you would with a sponge and water, exept your using medium grade all purpose sanding paper, or if your lucky enough to have neibours with a budgie hanging on the verandah, you can trim that budget yet more by another one dollar and twenty three cents,That grit paper in the bottom of the cage is okay but if Tweety has soiled it too much, it's no good because as i said before , we're not wet rubbing it, just a quick dry rub.
Your ready to paint once you rid the car of paint dust, Quick once over with the air compressor sees to that.
Most important is to get big a pot or drum half full of hot water, take a 4 litre tin of outdoor enamel paint, Dont trust brittish paints though, Try "Rust-Kill" or "solver" paints. Really any enamel paint for sheds, fences, roofs'n'gutters, that sorta thing. DO NOT THIN PAINT DOWN, Goes on straight, Heat's used to thin it down.
Yeah so sit your choice of paint in the water so the paint warms up, Dont practice good water conservation and go sitting a paint tin on a gas or leccy stove, Using hot water is THE SAFEST WAY to heat your paint , 'TIS FLAMMABLE so no naked flame or hotplates, when it runs freely from your stirring stick, your ready to roll (pardon the pun) or brush it onto your car with no roller or brush strokes to be had, smooth paint everytime, ande bonus is the enamel has a surface tension (or some [Naughty Pottyword]) different to when it was cold, this causes the paint to flow sorta like water, flat surface like glass instead of the usual occurance whereby the paint takes on the contour/shape/form of the surface onto which it's applied, so stone chips, DEEP stone chips and scratches become like paint dams, the deeper the chip/scratch, the deeper the dam of paint, Get it? Outa sight outa mind, lol.
I estimate if you do it all correctly, You have approximately Two to four years to save for another car or pro' paint job 'cause , and i'm wording you up here trendsetters, Once it's on, you dont want to take it back to original paint , Never mind Bare metal.
Remembering that enamel paint is slow drying compared to acrylic and without thinners plus being laid on thick , Drying may be prolonged so them bugs and dust will pose a threat for longer than is usual
No sandpaper or wet'n'dry is needed as you gets all your shine off the gu..er, brush or roller.
Letting it cure for whatever you guess is long enough (i dunno everytink), Grab a tin of cut'n'polish and try that.
I will read the 44 pages tomorrow (ish).

"E-mail"

Ahhhh...no you have it all wrong, go read the thread, at least the first 5 - 6 pages of it and the carry on thread is even better.

The biggest problem in the roller painting process is that people just dont read the instructions properly and think they can do it straight up with no problems at all and get pissed off that it didnt work, its not just a matter of slapping it on.
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cheers Gary.

My shed
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I have all the stuff and some Tremco metal armor paint, i'll give it a go soon.
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cheers Gary.

did you see that satin black job? WOWEE! thats a colour scheme that would look awesome on the prem i reckon.

Awesome Satin Black Paint Job

hi.. just wondering if anyone coult tell me how much a decent full body paint job is worth.. be it metellic or not.. i cant find anyone who will give me a straight answer.. thanks.. wal

The reason that no-one will give you a straight answer Wal is that there isn't one.

Depending on the condition of your WB, what paint you choose and the required standard of the finished job, you'd be looking at anything from $1500 to $15000 or even more.

The only way you'll get a ½ accurate quote is to take the car to a panelbeater and be open and honest with them on what needs doing and what standard you want the finished job to be. You'll also need to keep visiting him every few days while the car is being done, to discuss any hidden problems he may have found.

Cheers...Dave

"Some people don't deserve old Holdens"

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getting the paint to the right consistency is the bugger. i just put on a 3rd coat (after sanding the 2nd coat smooth) using too much solvent and the previous coats just crazed silly. So now I have to wait for it to dry and rough sand back ALL the coats and start again. It was actually looking pretty good before this happened.

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