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vs not starting

just a quick question my mates vs 5ltr wont start.turns over but just wont fire.have checked fuel and there is plenty of pressure.I am not so good with computers and the like so i thought i might reset the computer.i think u just remove the battery leads for half an hour and then try to start it and put it in this right or am i on the wrong track.I was just going to try and see if he had a spark as well.bloody motor too complicated for me.he should rip it out and stick in a 186 hehe.thanks for any help.

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My vr v6 did the same thing.

My vr v6 did the same thing. My key was stuffed, try replacing the battery in the key and give it a go . Even if the key is buggered you can still start it (at least in the v6 models) by turning the key to the on position and leaving it there for an hour, this will get around the immobiliser but process will need to be repeated if car is turned off.


Samae prob with my 5ltre VS Series 2 replaced relay control switch and ignition module first then finally found it was the distributor. Mine would not restart (usually hotstart, like after driving for half an hour it would not restart for an hour, sometimes would have to leave overnite... and was cutting out while driving intermittently. I was also losing power occassionally and the car was not idling well at times but other times perfectly (like at the mechanics for three weeks after the ignition module was replaced and the fault reappeared one week later....)


Mine always starts cold, always starts hot, the no-fire problem seems to occur
when it has run for only 5 minutes and isn't fully hot, then it won't fire for about an hour. When it has cooled right down it starts immediately and runs smoothly.
Not a nice problem when you nip down the shop for the milk and come back one and a half hours later. Does this ring any bells? I have replaced the oxy sensor with a new one, fitted a new set of leads and plugs. Every time I call the RACV it takes them an hour to get there and it starts fine, can't get a handle on it

Check the feul pump maybe

Check the feul pump maybe overhaeting.. Same thing happened to my vs..

crank angle sensor... every

crank angle sensor... every time...
once your fuel pump dies, it is dead, when the coil pack goes - it is dead...
intermittent failure = crank sensor...

Dead-ish Fuel Pump

I agree that, once your fuel pump is dead, it is dead. However, as it is dieing, it will be intermittent for a little while... Hence, the bashing of the bottom of the fuel tank you see going on under early EFI Commodores (and other cars). The jolt from a good, open handed smack on the tank CAN (maybe) get the pump to run long enough to get you home/to a mechanic...


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VS dieing falts

I have found most times with the vs when they die it one of two things has it got fuel no FUEL pump if yes go to see if have spark lot of this not working is caused by crank angle sensor and to other if your car runs until heat up and then dies try tipping cold water on harmonic balancer and it starts after that that works most times even if dont replace CRANK ANGLE SENSOR


Welcome to Australia.
What exactly did you just say?

'i'm definately shore that guage wont work with my tuff bango diff and Opal sydcrome box,if it goes though my grill,and I put the breaks on I realize its better with the glimer belt & tunned holly and Ederbrock duel feul webber gaurds, wiht etc primmer.'


>>> holden fan has tried to copy someone else's thread from another site!! nearly work for word. (the other dude could spell and be coherent though)

(had to search for VR not starting/running prob's last week and found that post from someone else... ha!)

oldholden e-mail here!!

I HATE it when TV shows destroy the old classics........ The money they waste on destroying them, they could send the bloody things to me. I'd be more than happy to have them!

car won't start wen hot

Try coil they don't like too start when hot


fule pump listen out for it

Listen to Yoda you should.

Listen to Yoda you should.

same thing happened to me

i got an exchange ignition module fixed the problem for me

Not starting

We had that problem in Qld and when the RACQ turned up it started too

Try crank angle sensor had

Try crank angle sensor had same problem didnt fix it found loose soilder in computer

5ltr not starting

hi all,

i have a vr calais 5ltr and it also does the same starts fine when cold or hot but if i drive it to the shops or around locally it stops and wont start for at least an hour. i have had it at 4 different mechanics and they dont know what it is. so did you replace the whole dizzy? i have put a new cap and rotor button on it and its no different. so should i change the dizzy any help would be greatful cheers.

its def the dizzy mate they

its def the dizzy mate they have a little module in them that buggas up

its your fuel pump in your

its your fuel pump in your fuel tank cutting off its fuel

My hsv manta turns over but

My hsv manta turns over but only fires when u put fuel in the throttle body do u no the problem

replacing the ignition module

you will probably need to replace the coil packs on top, and get the wiring checked from ignition module to the pcm, i had to replace them all 1 at a time and the wiring was about $120 including labour. you can adjust the distributor yourself while the car is idling but dont loosen the screw too much , if it sounds like it is idling good tighten the bolt, sometimes they slip down if they arent tightened properly or you go over bumpy roads or hit speed bumps at 60km.

thanks v8m8 you just saved my vrs life

thanks m8 the vr ss has exatly the same problem so on your advice ill replace the distributer cheep ones on e bay.
cheers magpie


sounds like hall sensor in

sounds like hall sensor in distributor problem

Probably was Hall Sensor...

...4-5 yrs ago.

'i'm definately shore that guage wont work with my tuff bango diff and Opal sydcrome box,if it goes though my grill,and I put the breaks on I realize its better with the glimer belt & tunned holly and Ederbrock duel feul webber gaurds, wiht etc primmer.'

I have a similar problem but

I have a similar problem but mine is more under load idles fine as soon as you put it in gear it starts to pop and cut out

the vs 5.0ltr has a hall

the vs 5.0ltr has a hall effect crank sensor built in the distributor, that will be the problem of engine not vs did the same [Naughty Pottyword],one day it cut out and wouldnt start luckily i was at home,i left the car overnite and it started the next day,so i checked the fuel pump ok, fuse ok,fuel injectors ok,relay ok, all the ignition lights on when key is turned on.did some research and got a manual and thats when i found out about that sensor. here in nz you cant buy the part you have to buy the whole fixed the problem hope this helps. you can do some tests on your ignition module to find out exactly if it is your dist,cheers


i have the same prob how did u solve thought u do that but its still the same

sounds like no spark, check

sounds like no spark, check the coil, check if its getting any spark, make sure the leads are on properly, make sure the ignitor isnt screwed, if it all else fails its the cas, crank angle sensor

what happened if the coil had

what happened if the coil had power going in it and its new and it throws no spark iv replaced the dizzy ignition module and the coil still no luck does anyone have any ideas that could help eliminate this headache of a problem ?


If you want to re-set the comp, you only have to disconnect the terminals for 10 sec's or so! If you have the original radio, make sure ou have the pin for the radio. Do you have a Gregory's manual or a manual that you can do a computer check with? this will tell you if there is an elec problem. Crank angle sensors are a common problem!

nah dont have a manual but

nah dont have a manual but thanks for the info ,only 10 secs (no time for a beer while waiting) Is the crank angle sensor near the harmonic balancer or is it at the back of the motor

its just behind the balancer

its just behind the balancer acordind to the manual


what can you do about the crank angle censor to check. sprayed eather in air cleaner to check if pump or not no reaction so I guess its not fuel related but spark

Yr 1 school holidays?

Judging by your ability with words, I don't think you were even alive when the post you're replying to, was originally written.
Good luck in Year 2 :-)


'i'm definately shore that guage wont work with my tuff bango diff and Opal sydcrome box,if it goes though my grill,and I put the breaks on I realize its better with the glimer belt & tunned holly and Ederbrock duel feul webber gaurds, wiht etc primmer.'

Why don't you go hang

Why don't you go hang yourself?


Over 2 years later...
Just, wow....!

'i'm definately shore that guage wont work with my tuff bango diff and Opal sydcrome box,if it goes though my grill,and I put the breaks on I realize its better with the glimer belt & tunned holly and Ederbrock duel feul webber gaurds, wiht etc primmer.'

At it again TEACH!!

A bigger WOW!!

Cheers Shane

Email me


Again? My comment was about 26 months ago.

'i'm definately shore that guage wont work with my tuff bango diff and Opal sydcrome box,if it goes though my grill,and I put the breaks on I realize its better with the glimer belt & tunned holly and Ederbrock duel feul webber gaurds, wiht etc primmer.'

Yes Micheal your right.

But why do you make such comments in the first place?
Just to think that have such poeple are teaching our kids.
Some poeple such as myself have an issue with Dyslexia & I say thank god to auto correct on most occasions.
Have a nice mate.

Cheers Shane

Email me


Not sure on the 5 ltr. It should be on the balancer. If not, in the dizzy. You will have to wait for someone who knows, sorry! Do you know someone with a book? You may have to buy one or see a mech.! Always handy to have. (a book that is. Mechanic too I suppose!)

Crank angle sensor is behind

Crank angle sensor is behind harmonic balancer u need pully for balancer even with the twenty asorted bolt sizes none fit vr vs vt have to get three 1/6 bolts about 10 cm long only need twenty ml thread and the thread is a1/6 not metric but I done the angle sensor in vt and now vrbt1 and want even start


9 years ago.


'i'm definately shore that guage wont work with my tuff bango diff and Opal sydcrome box,if it goes though my grill,and I put the breaks on I realize its better with the glimer belt & tunned holly and Ederbrock duel feul webber gaurds, wiht etc primmer.'

Double Pssst

Someone should let old mate know that along with the fact that this car is probably dead and long gone, that it is extremely uncommon for the Crank Angle sensor to go in the 5 litre, given that it doesn't have a CAS...


Dislike me for who I am you may, like me for whom I'm not, you never will...


coil packs were a big let down on the vps but thats just another wild guess!!!
Cheers Bobby

also check that the

also check that the injectors are pulsing as when i had trouble with my conversion in my vn i couldnt start it. turned out that the security was still active and will not activate the injectors. turned out to be a dodgy bcm changed it over with matching keyhead and all was good. easiest was to test the injectors is get a 3v led and put it in the connector and the led should light up while u r cranking it overlow voltage led test lights and the proper injector diodes are the best but they can be anywhere upwards of $70 depending where u go. so if u have spark and fuel pressure but its not firing means injectors are not openning, either a fault in the loom or security fault be it the keyhead or bcm

long live the hemi

link to my shed and stroker info



key probs

hai there, wen the keys in the barrel but nuthing at all is happening (even no fuel pump)hold gear changer up past (p) (automatics) while u turn the key to start it. this somehow works around the immobiliser n alows u to start without having to wait 45mins or so. i tried this with mi mates vs commodore n it worked. the problem occured after he changed the keys around, dont no if itl work with u, but cant hurt to try i spose, catchyas.

wanta laugh



Starting Problems on Injected Commodore

Starting Problems on Injected Commodore...
Now funny I should find this after a week of BS'n around with our '91 VN Wagon, it has a V6 but it is the last of the Series I's but the car contains a mixture of Series I & II gear...

Now if anyone recalls a Post here not long back from Passion Fingers... well.. "Taadaaa"!! T-was mwah, CBF signing in and seeing as it isn't such a high priority here, well when in Rome do as the Roams do eh what...

Now so far our problem since fitting the Calais Dash (which btw I haven't replaced the Loom to yet) is we can be driving along and the Wagon will just cut out, no reason, P'TAHH! DEAD!

It happened to me under the Railway Bridge down the road from me the other day, so the next day I leave home and decide to give the left turn under the Bridge the big miss, well bugga me! The hooha stopped exactly the same distance up the road on a straight as I would have travelled had I had turned sharp left and parked at the Stop Sign under the Bridge!
Well Bugga me if thoughts of demonic posession didn't run thru my head trying to weigh up that scenerio!

So I decide to head to our 'OLD' Mechanic for his input.

Now the reason I emphasise old is; we managed to score an account with a very prominent local Tyre Service and the owner looked after us damned well, so much so we never had a 30Day account like other cronies, we could take a year to pay as long as we made weekly appearences so he could see our smiling faces, but since he has sold of his lineup of Companies off to retire his dickhead team of mechanics have clicked onto the new 'Bonus for Profits' scheme, so our minor bug bear was relayed to us as a very necessary $2,000 repair, ripping off the heads and inlet Manifold, reco'ing the lot and then according to them our problem would be fixed... Right!
We headed next door to a national chain of Auto Tuners, only to be told we needed to have our inlet manifold removed to fix a minor Oil leak and replace the entire exhaust as there is a pin hole in the muffler, he couldn't tell me what would happen if I replaced the entire exhaust with Extractors, 3inch Cat and 3inch in/out Mufflers, but his blank expression and dropped jaw said it all, as that would be ahhh? Well a lot bigger than a pin hole in the Muffler eh what!
This is what bought us a full circle to our old Mechanic who is bloody brilliant working on old 60's exotic Race Cars as well his son is a Kart Champ and is very proficient with most things mechanical... just we need to pay on pickup...
Now straight up he twigged our Accelleration was a bit dicky, well I had always assumed this was how all injected Commys ran, but not so!
So he removed the Air Flow Meter and cleaned it and the (correct me if I am wrong?) Idle Winder Motor...
Well what a difference that made! I 'thought' we had it as soon as I moved back a couple of metres then forward around 4metres to the driveway out of the joint, it ran so smooth, so sweet, so nice I was so in love with the old girl!

Then that afternoon the wife reports that it broke down AGAIN on our corner which resulted in 3 more starts and a total of 3 stalls before she made it home for the 3rd time... Very confusing?

So the next morning our old Mechanic offers to look at it free of charge, where the day before the codes showed up as 12, after 5 stalling episodes on my way to his Business, I finally made it and the Codes showed up as 41 & 24 I think they were?
Now he was getting somewhere, so he removed the Engine Fuse for 20seconds to reset the Codes, restarted it and bugga! The codes showed as 12 again (Which apparently means all is well...)
He suggested we try a new Coil Pack, we just so happen to have a Supercharged Coil Pack and his eyes lit up, so at some stage this week we will be running the old biatch until she stops again, then whilst playing up we will (hopefully) get in there so he can recheck the Codes, then try the Coil Pack next.

This to me is the problem, or damed close to it and the crooked pricks who trued charging us 2grand to fix what to me is a simple electric fault can go and get stuffed, if after near on 20years of faithful service this how we are to be treated they aren't worth spitting on and I am sure that Graham, the old owner would be bitterly dissapointed in how his old staff is behaving towards old valued clients...

But just to add to things, OH's own Celebrity Mechanic, RedBeard hit this problem directly on the head when I passed it by him, he said straight up that the Coil Pack is at most times to blame, all I needed was a second opinion and if this is the problem I am going to shout ol RedNuts a drop of his preferred poison on his next visit to the East Coast ;{D
*OOPS* *Coff Coff* I meant RedBeard! ;{P

Now, this may not directly relate to the problem with the 5litre siruation, but what ever you do, DON'T listen to unscrupulous burglar mechanics who only see you as a Bunny to up his Bonus Payment at the end of the month!
Don't take for gospel the first or even the second opinion if you are in doubt!
Keep asking until you find someone who at least is confident in what they are doing...

Cheers Pig (oinks308)

Link to Pigs Sty
Link to HoldenPedia
Link to "How to Open a Shed"
Email OINKS308
Email OINKS308 re: Fibreglass inquiries
Link to Mopar Sunday
Link to Holdens at the Mopar Weekend
Link to Cleveland Auto Spectacular 2006
Link to Pigs Latest Album – Old Tin Hunt

Old Mahanics

The problem these days with machanics is all they think of is how much money they can get out of you someone I know she took her car too a person a top a grade yer a joke he wanted to charge her $200 to move timming chain 3 teeth so I asked her why he told her it was out 3 teeth so I put it on TDC and looked it could not be any closer to TDC as you can get then she asked where is crank angle sensor he could not find it I explained it too her ans told her it sits inside distributor and problem with car was distributor with built in coil and crank angle sensor if you dont know anyone that has been doing cars for years they will try and rip everyone off for as much as they can.

VS Commodore starting problems

Had problem with VS wouldn't start. Turn key over slowly, after 1-2 minutes it starts. Once it cut out on me at traffic lights, kept wiggling key and started again. Yes, the key was new, as we thought the problem was the key, but no. Took it to local Holden dealer, they checked it on their computer, they reckon no problem, of course it doesn't do it there. Get home after driving for 20 minutes, go to start and she doesn't. Wait 1-2 minutes and she goes. Can anyone tell me what it is? Much appreciated..

Don't yer hate that...

Nothing sh*ts me more... When you take your car somewhere to get a problem looked at and the damn thing stops only whilst there!!

The second you leave it comes back...

vs wont start

Having the same problem, damn thing wont play up at the mechanic, so I've left with him for a few days, coil pack stuffed, crank angle sensor not great either-looking for cheap spares!!!!!!!

VS No Starty

Has it got an aftermarket alarm/immobiliser on it that's mor ethan about 3 years old? Yep? Get it checked out...


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VS no starty

My bet is it is the Crankshaft sensor

VS Dies

My VS commodore just dies while driving along but will still turnover and after about 30-40 mins it will start again then 10km it will die. The C.A.S was replaced early last year along with the coilpacks sometimes it wont turnover at all but will start when you press the unlock button on the key. What is the problem here???? Help Needed

vs dies

mate i have a bt1 used to do the same thing after spending closed to 1500 bucks with diagnostics it turned out to be a $25 diode in the dizzy once hot it would stuff up but cold it ran beautiful hope this helps

diode in the dizzy

please explain what this means as i hace replaced the crank angle sensor battery checked the new fuel pump and aslo my key is a bit loose 96 acclaim thanks cristine

v6 dizzy?

whats this world coming to?

vs wont start

had same problem tested everything and it worked out to be the coil not giving the correct spark .replaced it never had another problem

does a vs have a dizzy??

Is this a 1994 - 1997 vs hpolden commodore we are talking about? I have a 1994 vr commodore v6 3.8. And my car doesn't seem to have a dizzy, it has coil packs... My car has an issue some times it starts instantly. Alot of the time it takes 3 to 5 seconds to kick into life. I have a new petrol pump, and new coil packs. Is this the immobilisor playing tricks on me???


V6's don't have dizzy's, but V8's do

best thing to do is put new leads and plugs in, also put a new air filter in too

i assume you put a new fuel filter in when did the fuel pump?

No Dizzy

check make shore that the connector sitting beside key is connecting with strip on Ignition Switch my vs would do same thing if it still does it check crank angle sensor at front of motor under harmonic balencer it was not connecting at ignition switch which sends code to immobilisor to all starting. hope this helps

Vs S2 Clubby cleaned throttle body TPS signal. Replaced TPS.

My mate was replacing my window reg is I decided to clean out my throttle body and lucky I did was bulk full of shyt. Any who started up the old 5lt got an engine light on the dash. Panicked and put old TPS back on. Started up same thing engine light came up. Went to Holden payed $109 for a new TPS [Naughty Pottyword]ing engine light still on. A Holden tech came out with a scan tool thingy. Ahh tech 1 and it wouldn't clear the code it engine light. Disconnected battery no good. Took out 20 amp engine fuse. No good. Voltage FINE. Ohms FINE. TPS brand bloody new. Code 22 TPS voltage low. Help me please or there's gunna be another clubby v8 getting fried.

that would be your

that would be your imobiliser.

Dieing VS

Have a look at your computer fault codes when it next does it. IIRC, they hold the fault codes in memory for about 10 starts.


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VS starting

My VS (about 50%) of the time won't even turnover when I turn the key on. Sometimes by holding the key on for 5 seconds, it may then turn over or alternatively sometimes I have to turn the ignition on off a half a dozen times or so before it turns over. Once it turns over, it starts easily. Does anyone know my problem. Do I need to have a replacement switch put in or something.

Thanks for anyones help


Sounds like dodgy key programming

Had a similar problem a while back and after much fiddling and checking, I tried my spare key with no problem. Turned out that when I bought a replacement key for my wife they updated something and that caused my key to play up. Once I had the keys reset at the Holden dealer all was OK. If you are getting your key reprogrammed, I suggest getting any spare ones you have done at the same time so that they are all programmed the same. Hope this helps.

Ratz VS

Try your spare key. If that works fine, get the battery in your current key replaced.


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VS not starting

Thanx Dave. Don't have the spare but will change the battery anyway. When you do turn the key on, there is power going somewhere as the dashlights dull and the radio loses its power, just the car won't turn over.

Ratz VS

No, no, no...that's not your keyhead if they are the symptoms.

The symptoms of a failing keyhead are that NOTHING changes when you turn the ignition key from On to Start....

You have a problem elsewhere. Check the condition of your battery leads and the tightness/cleanliness of the connections at both ends. Check the condition of your battery to body and engine to body earth leads and the cleanliness/tighness of the ends.

It sounds like a crook earth (or a crook electrical connection of some sort) and, after putting power through it for a few seconds/for a few times, it heats up ewnough to get a good enough connection to allow your car to start.


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vs commodore

i have a new key, battery, fuel pump, but every now and then the car will stall then take a few turns to start it again


What fault codes are showing on the computer readout?


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VR Commodore not starting

I wanted to know if anyone has this problem, car will not start sometimes, when i turn the key all lights turn on but the engine wont start i have to take out the key and turn it around the other way to turn car on, sometimes it will start other times i have to try this a few times, and today it stalled on me for no reason. I have replaced starter motor and alternator already.....

have u tried to change the

have u tried to change the metal strip around the key barrel?

Try pushing the key in nice

Try pushing the key in nice and hard allowing the ball to make good contact with the ring around the ignition barrell. Had the same problem with my old vs acclaim. The ring around your ignition barrell is probably better on one side than the other, which is why it would start when you turn the key around

i have a simaler problem i

i have a simaler problem i got a new key it started once then now it wont enen crank the lights come on but nothing happens

engine + transmission rebuild

greetings! does anyone know roughly how much it would cost to have my vs berlina's v6 engine and auto transmission rebuilt to factory specs???

vr hard to start!

It will turn over but wont fire straight away. Have had the fuel injectors cleaned. And also replaced the oil seals. Still playing up.If it has been sitting for a few days will fire up straight away. Sought of act as though it is flooded. That kind of thing.

sounds like fuel pressure

sounds like fuel pressure regulater its da diafram lookn thing on fuel line at top ov motor

Vs hard to start..I have the same problem

Did you find out what was wrong with it?


What codes come up in the computer?

Sounds like it COULD be a faulty oxygen or, more likely, temperature sensor, but check the computer codes first.


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Thank for the tip, bought

Thank for the tip, bought the gregorys guide today thats what is says . Check the coolant temp sensor.

vr hard to start

checked computer codes- came up with no faults.

cehcked injectors for leakage- although already had these serviced 2 weeks ago.

Any ideas out there?????????????

the ignition module will be

the ignition module will be to blame...

mark my words!

long thread

this thread just keeps on going .The funny thing is the car that this started about got a split in the fuel line just near the tranny.the owner thought it would be ok to tape it up with duct tape and the car burnt to the ground on the freeway and two months before he stopped paying his insurance to save money....ah well.....its only money..... cheers adrian

VR 1994 has miss under load

when driving up a hill it starts to has a bad miss, strugles and shutters also when you give it more gas? when this happens i have to put it in 3 gear (auto) and it will be fine about under 2000rpm

VR 1994 has bad miss under load.

Can anyone tell me the outcome of this problem as I have taken my car to numerous mechanics, spent way too much money. Had my Crank angle Sensor , Knock Sensor, Oxygen sensor and fuel pump replaced and those are just the things I can remember (my diary was stolen and it had all my mechanic reciepts in it).

Coil Packs

John (Arsewipe) replaced the coil packs and the problem went away.


Holdenpaedia, they're the brakes Mate.

Same problem any ideas??

Checked all sensors and done leads and spark plugs but still the same problem? If it was one of the coil packs wouldnt it run crap/miss fire all the time? Have put a timeing light on all the new leads and are all fine at idle just not underload cheers

Fuel Pump

Try smacking the bottom of the Fuel Tank to shock the Fuel Pump into action.


My Shed

Holdenpaedia, they're the brakes Mate.

Coil packs & or leads & or

Coil packs & or leads & or plugs will fix it.

Try the leads then the plug then the packs.

Missing VR

Start with the basics, check/replace plugs & money would be on a stuffed lead.

"Clay is for racing on, Tar is how you get there!!"

VP Commodore Starter Motor

Have been to wreckers, Repco & Holden chasing the correct starter motor for 10/92 VP Commodore Auto. The only way I can explain it, is the slot it fits in is oval-not round. The previous owner of the vehicle put a manual one in, but would like to find the original one if possible. Anyone got any suggestions?

Stater Motor

by a new after marker one a geared one

Once In Awhile Won't Start

I have had similar infuriating problems. There is a danger zone of about 1/2 to 1 hr from the time I park the car when it will likely act up. The engine turns over but won't catch. I then have to leave it for another 1/2 to 1 hr. and it will usually start fine. Lock/Unlock door, change key, push/pull shifter have no impact. This sometimes happens once a week, sometimes every couple of months. Embarrassing last time as I had a client with me. Would love a secret technique to fix this problem.

Also to confirm an earlier post about leads being fault for stuttering under strain up hills and highway. My mechanic changed plug leads and the problem disappeared.

To all that have had the car start stop problems

To all that have had the problems of the car starting than stalling (appearing to be flooding), yet other times running fine then suddenly stopping for no reason out on the street. I too have had this very same thing happen to me in my Vn Berlina. It had had everything imaginable done to it to rectify the problem. Cleaned the throttle body, changed leads, electricals. Still done it. Took it to holden to see if they could find the problem, after giving up with the local mechanic, which they again cleaned the throttle body, found a water leak and sent me back out on the street. It seemed to work fine for a few days than bang back to square one. Took it back they put a new computer in it and it's been running fine ever since. I assume the VR's and Vs's that are doing the same thing, maybe this would also fix them too. Hopefully this has helped because I know this problem is extremely frustrating. Good luck

My VR Won't Idle PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!

I own a series 1 VR V6 auto. I've installed stage 1 (crow) chip & cam plus headers & K&N pannel filter. It worked fine until today. I thought that I would take out the restrictor on the inlet manifold to alow more air in. After I finished I let it sit for an hour with the positive terminal disconected. I reconnected it & started her up & held the revs at 3000rpm for about 15sec. I took my foot off the pedal & it stalled. It was running verry VERRY rich & blowing exaust smoke everywhere. I restarted it & done the same thing. It trys to idle at about 100rpm, yes 100 & spits the chips again, but wait it gets better. When it will idle without stalling for longer than 30sec it pushes the revs up to 2000 for a second & the engine light comes on, the interesting thing is when the engine light comes on it runs & idles normaly. I've taken it for so many drives & it still makes no difference, It does the same thing every time I start it up. Can someone please help me, Im lost on what to do. I know that if worst comes to worst I can just put the restrictor back in but I want free air flow. PLZ HELP.......


hmm jeeze pulled the restrictor out run like a bag of turds i dont know what would cause this! you fruitbat go back to school

My site

Im lost on what to do

Why don't you try taking it for another drive. That's gotta work sooner or later.PMSL.
Here's a tip. Get yourself a stage 1 train ticket and stick to public transport.
Leave your car alone if you don't understand what your doing.
Nah, I'm only giving you [Naughty Pottyword] cause your not a member.
Try signing up and you will possibly get more help.
You could use the user name "Wozzle". I don't think anyone is using that yet.

Lost for 7 Months

That was posted 7 months ago. He's either fixed it or sold it by now...


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My VR Won't Idle PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!

leave the restrictor alone.... doesnt improve airflow or performance. just a way to kill 30 mins.

leave restrictor alone?

Actually it can improve performance by removing the restrictor in a vp-vr v6,not a massive improvement,but a bit sharper throttle response,but at the cost of slightly rougher idle!...i did it to a vp i owned and it definately improved off idle performance!!Cheers Rob.


The reason the restrictor was put in there in the first place was to re-distribute the airflow through the manifold thereby stopping the front 2 cylinders constantly running lean.

As the front 2 pots ran lean on the VN's, the computer was ALWAYS adjusting the timing on those 2 cylinders to try to stop them overheating. In the medium term, this stuffed the coil-packs. Why did VN's have such a bad rep when run on LPG? Because the coil-packs were stuffed by trying to stop those 2 cylinders overheating and they'd fire at the wrong moment, backfiring through the LPG filled manifold and blow the airbox to smithereens...


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my car has new computer new fuel pump. the coils have been checked the throttle body has been done the crankhandle has been replaced but it still stopping , when its manly warm it will stall . does it when you back of and even when you stop it splutters then revs up then sputers again then if it dosent rev up it stalls .. as soon as it stalls you can start it again strait away injectors been done. leads, plugs,relays,airflow, trainmission been checked ,, can anyone help me..


I had this exact same problem in my vp commo. I replaced the IAC Valve. Buy one from coventry's or repco. Cost me about $80 i think. Buy genuine holden. I initially got an aftermarket one and it died after 6 months. the IAC Valve is under the throttle body. its two screws thats a pain in the ass to get to and make sure you dont lose them as the IAC valve is spring loaded.




Check the output of the vehicle speed sensor.


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VS is screwed again.

Hello all. I have a problem with my car yet again.

This time it's struggling to start. Afte rabout 5 or 6 spluttery attempts it manages to start. However, the moment I put my foot on the accelerator the thing stalls.

This problem has been becoming worse and worse over a two to three week period. I thought it may have just been a leads/spark plug issue but after changing them yesterday the situation worsened.

About a year ago I had an issue with the inlet manifold, fuel tank and had my fuel line pumped and cleaned. I'd hate to have to do it all over again.

Any suggestions?


Have you checked the computer code readout? If you don't know how to do it, I'm pretty sure I have a guide (or there are quite a few on the Net).

My 1st 3 suspects would be your sender for the coolant temp or the crank angle sensor or the oxygen sensor. The first two are much more likely culprits than the last.

Check the computer codes and get back to us anyway.


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VS Commodore

I have 96 vs Berlina v6 auto, the problem I have is that after Ive turned the car off it will not start again the motor cranks over but wont fire if I leave it for 1 to 2 hours it fires up straight away, If any one can help much appreciated

VS No Starty

Next time it does this, pour about a litre of cool water over the harmonic balancer and try again.

If it starts straight away, your crank angle sensor is cactus (which is not unusual).

If not, check the computer codes.


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VS not firing.... but turns over

Hi all....

I'm no mechanic ... and I'm starting to doubt the one that is working on my car. I called the local garage to collect my car when it wouldn't start. It would turn over but no more... He replaced the Crank angle sensor... then not even a week later... same problem... he replaces the Fuel pump.... a day later... same problem... Now he is wanting to replace the Fuel regulator as he said that it is getting too much fuel and flooding. Am I a sucker or what. HELP. This is all costing way to much if it is a process of elimination...

Advice please


If the car is a V8, try

If the car is a V8, try another distributor.


Fire the VS

Check your oil pressure sender switch and /or wiring.
If the ECU gets no signal from the oil pressure switch it shuts the fuel pump down (so I believe).

Cheers, Jeff.

Fire the VS II

...or take to a decent holden dealer to get it fixed.

there are no stupid questions only stupid people

VS stalling

Guys, there is no crankangle sensor as such on a Delco injected 5.0L??

also there is no air flow meter it is a MAP set up.

have you cleaned your injectors? you may be getting electric pulse to your injectors but they may be sticking.. common prob.

sticking and flooding.

Also if you have replaced your ECU and chip, make sure you put the V8 chip in. The V6 chip will run the car, but it has a much wider fuel pulse which will flood it every time. How do I know? I did it, I even drove it. With exactly those symptoms. To compensate I backed off my fuel reg to minimum and it just ran.. the dyno guy had a big laugh at me.
1) check you injectors aren’t sticking.
2) make sure you have the correct chip installed.
EDIT> Also check the voltage ouput of your Throttle position Sensor.
this should be setting a code 22 or 24 (from memory) if it is out of range.

*check the codes for hi or low voltage TPS signal.



FE wagon 308 injected, TH400, 3.25 LSD


I blew a rear tire yesterday and discovered that the inside edge of the tire was worn through even though the tires had done only 20,000k
Local servos says camber kit will fix problem and quoted $500
Does this sound right?
I have noticed the rear end scraping through driveways and such the last month or so......

vs camber

Check your bushes and for anything bent before you spend money on a camber kit. I checked one out for a bloke the other day who was told by a large tyre retailer it needed a camber kit. Stuck my head under it to find flogged bushes in just about every orifice. Not to mention the car had near on 400,000km on it. Holden don't spend shed loads of money on engineering to be told by some 20 year old tyre expert that they all need camber kits. I have now had five IRS Holdens and when maintained and tyres rotated have never had a tyre wear problem. If you have non standard or lowered springs in it you may then need a camber kit to get it right.

Camber Kit

I have had mechanic check out bushes and bearings on two post hoist he says he can see nothing wrong with it.
Rang Holden dealer yearterday Arvo they say it need a 4 point camber kit $650-00. I am thinking of taking it to Pedders or the like to see what they think. I agree Holden don't spend shed loads of money on engineering to be told by some 20 year old tyre expert that they all need camber kits. It does seem to be standard response when you say you have scuffed off the inside of rear tyres. the car has 280,000 on it and has never been a problem until now.


HI Guys,
I have a 12/93 VR commodore....around a year ago it used to just turn off on me after driving for about 10 minutes, then not start for around 20/half an hour and start again then turno off again.
replaced the o2 sensor problem fixed. NOW.....over the last couple of months car will just turn on off and then turn the key...bang its fine it starts again....the problem seemed to go away for a few weeks until recently wen everytime i turned RIGHT not left it would turn off as soon as i give it a bit on the accelarator....if i slowly go around and keep it at aroun 2000 rom it will keep going......anyway after a few days of it doing this..spoke to mechanic who replaced fuel pump&filter...leaving after having installed...turn right...BANG turns off!!!!...anyway the problem seemed to calm down a bit since i try not to give it to it around bends....anyway NOW 3 weeks later the car is having trouble takes a bit of a fire up to satrt and the just randomly switches off and this time WONT strat again like sort of will after 10 or so minutes....I have thought it may be the Crank sensor but I have noticed when I change between P R N D the revs make the car lurch back and forward and sometimes between changing it shuts off.....its like the revs are all wrong for a minute but then settles down....
PLEAS E can anyone HELP solve this Bizarre behaviour!!!!!!!!!??????

crank sensor or fuel blockage

most of the symptoms you explain seem to point to the crank sensor, except the turning of corners, perhaps check the electrical connection to the crank sensor first.
I have only seen the fuel blockage twice but both in VR's. Inside the tank there is a part that joins the fuel pump to the sender unit. It is a metal case with a rubber insert. I have seen the rubber in this insert fall apart and partly block the fuel line causing the exact same problem as you describe.

vp v8 oil pressure drop

Put a vp v8 in my hot rod, when it is cold it will run oil pressure at just over 40 when warm it wil drop to 20 and when running for about halt an hour it will get even less.

oil pressure vp v8

i dont dispute the other guys advice but oil becomes thinner when hot so try a flush out and refill with top quality oil with a lower viscosity dont forget the new filter!!
might also be a blocked oil sucker, hope not!!
matt k

wrinkley V8

Doesn't sound like the bearings are in very good condition...Sorry to say.


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new oil pump

How many k's on the engine? Could just be a worn out oil pump, replace with a high volume unit. Could also be clearance in the cam bearings. Either way putting a new oil pump on will fix the wear in the pump and buy you a few more years of running if your cam bearings are worn. Could also be crud in the screen on the oil pick up at the bottom of the sump.
I have seen an EFI 5.0l driven for 10k's clanging its head off with no oil pressure. The female owner just drove it to the dealership because there was something obviously wrong with it. I ran out and turned the engine off. Replaced the oil pump drive shaft that had broken, fired her up and the engine was fine.

my vp

i have a vs an it has a vp v6 motor and i start it up and i drive it for 20k's and if i give it to it, it will stall and it is extremly hard to start CAN SOMEONE HELP ME

Shouldnt have it!!

You Legally cant have a VP motor in VS, also when you did this conversion did you swap the computer.
Cheers Tom

VP wont start after failed fan belt!

The fan belt flew apart today, and got caught up behind the disk/pully on the crank shaft.
Everything seems to be intact and in place - jsut that the car won;t start now. It turns over, lights are on and everything seems fine. Just no start!!!
anyone have any ideas? thanks

Fan belt

If it is a v6 it may have taken out the harmonic balacer and the crank angle sensor.

Vp no start... belt will have taken out the crank sensor at least.
Bottom line Mr Holden fan..the front pulley has to come off, to replace the sensor & check that the back of the pulley is ok.
Cheers. Q-ball.

"Clay is for racing on,Tar is how you get there!!"

VP No start - Fan belt cactus...

Thanks guys. Yep, its a 93 VP 6 Cylinder sedan.
So it's off to the spare parts shop.
Turns out the water pump is rs as well, so I'll replace that, the crank sensor, and anything else that falls off the thing!
Lets hope Repco sell the bits.


Make sure you check the gap between the crank angle sensor and the interrupter ring (the square teeth behind the balancer)***BEFORE*** you crank it over because you will destroy the CA Sensor and may damage the teeth as well.


Thanks for that. I'm starting on it tomorrow !!!! Really, thanks for the heads up. I'll be taking my time - poor old girl has lasted me well, so I want to keep it going.... Must look into fixing the odometer one day too. $120 last time I asked. but who needs to know how far they have gone :-) I'm only looking ahead.

VS Berlina on gas

My vs Berlina on gas keeps getting really hot when driving at slower speeds eg in heavy traffic. seem to be putting about 2 litres of water in the radiator daily. it almost stalls when its idling at the lights and sometimes the orange engine light comes on then clunks when i accelerate again or the car stalls. could there be a problem with the gas or is it more likely the thermostat or cooling system? have only had the bloody thing for 3 weeks! Seems to be ok on petrol though.

water use

If you are puting 2 litres of water in the car every day it sounds like you need to take the car to a mechanic and get it checked out before you do major damage to it.

Replacing C.A.S

When replacing the CAS, how do i get the front pulley off. It rotates when i try to undo the bolt. I'm sure there is a simple answer, but i didnt have the patience to work it out last night.

V6 harmonic balancer bolt

The bolt is VERY tight, about 200 ftlbs from memory. You will need to remove the bellhousing cover and lock the flywheel / flexplate with a bar. Take off the radiator fan to give yourself some space to work and use a breaker bar, maybe with a piece of tube as an extension. The bolt is normal right hand thread.

My mate loosened his by putting a ring spanner on the bolt and cranking the engine with the starter motor until the spanner hit something solid, but I wouldn't recommend that method.


V6 harmonic balancer bolt

not recommended either.... but if you have a 'T' bar and a socket (!), hold it with one hand (putting a bit of pressure/taking slack and gently hit with rubber mallet to 'crack' it.


oldholden e-mail here!!
Ron's shed
Cruising In SA.....The

VS Commodore Auto Trans Cuasing Starting Problems

I have a 97 VS series 2 duel fuel, for the past 2 weeks I have been having problems starting. Sometimes it cranks really slowly, just like a dying battery and sometimes it does not crank at all. I have found that if I push the T-bar past park it will start most times although it still cranks slowly. Same happens on either Gas or petrol.
Also last 2 days when cold, the trans seems to take much longer to change up, and when warm slight acceleration will cause trans to kick down. Any Ideas?

auto problems

a dodgy connection on the throttle position sensor will also cause transmission shifting problems similar to those you explain.

VS Auto

Your Park/Neutral Switch is either burning out or, at the very least, needs adjusting.

Your auto also needs a Service, desperately.


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VS Auto

Thanks Dave,
Auto is overdue for a service, I'll get the switch checked out.


VR Rear Window

My VR rear window shattered to bits on the w/e. No sign of damage at all, either on my car or the surrounding vehicles. I have heard a rumour that when the electrics are about to go the rear dimister is left on which can cause the shattering (change in climate). Any truth to this?


Where exactly are the electrics supposed to be going to?

"Bling = RICE"

electrics going to

I don't know where they are going mate. But I can tell you where they wont be going anymore.
The rear windscreen.PMSL.
P.S. No damage to the vehicle. What about the shattered windscreen.LOL.

Where's them electrics going ???

Out the back window of course, (Unless you leave a door open for them). Thought this was obviouse ?

JUNK IS...Something you throw out three weeks before you need it.
"Shed & sale"

back windows

had a calais at a wrecking yard VK that is anywho someone went in one night pulled the diff out (3.23 ratio) and i mean the diff wheels trailing arms the lot hurled it through the back window of a VC we had just prepared to sell (got roady and was all perfect) and drove the VC through the cyclone fence and drove it away...

got the VC back but it was all smashed and stuff was a bit miffed about it but i know the address of the guy that did it just have to wait awhile longer before i go round there for a coffee

My site

Shattering Windows

I have never heard of a window shattering due to the demister being on. It wouldn't make the window hot enough.


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i have a VS series 2 berlina and sometimes when i tried to start my car with the key nothing would happen at all (radio etc wouldnt turn on) though if i pressed the unlock button on the key it would work? could someone explain

is the security light

is the security light flashing? The immobiliser has cut in not long after shutting down the motor and pulling the key out. pressing unlock turns the immobiliser off.

security light not working

My vs series 3 ute project car has been sitting for 12 months and the security light was flashing,now it's not flashing. It won't start and have had the key reprogrammed and did not make a difference. it winds over, has spark but no injector pulses.Does not show falt codes, if BCM is faulty will it show a falt code?


VS berlina key

Three possible problems, key stuffed, contact ring on ignition barrell not contacting key or body control module stuffed. Try with a spare key if you have one to eliminate the key from the equation.

try the crank sensor. im not

try the crank sensor. im not a mechanic, but my dad is, and he replaced his a few days ago. his had same symptoms - it would cut out randomly (when mum drove to work). also has more power and more economical now. (sorry im not a motor mechanic) but pull the main pulley (harmonic balancer??) off (which is very hard to get off - ours was glued/loctited together from the factory) and behind it is the crank sensor. about $80 for new sensor, plus labour if you're not good with engines. the hardest part is getting the pulley off. make sure you draw a diagram for the fan/pulley belts as they only go on one way. the sensor is only two bolts and a plug i think. no more cutouts with mum's key (the spare key) but the original key won't start it until you lock the doors then unlock them again. i keep telling him to get a new key, but hes a tightarse

reprogramme key

I had a similar problem a while back. Don't get a new key, just get the old one reprogrammed and get the battery replaced while your at it.

Random cutout - thermo fan - no start

Hey guys. My GF has a VS and it has this problem every winter. The CAS has been replaced in the past but it still cuts out for no reason.

After it cuts out the fan will come on and you cant start the car again until the fan stops. The dealer it was purchased from are a useless bunch of ???? and never fixed it after many tries.

Any ideas.

Im thinking of pulling a battery lead (or maybe fuse) if the fan doesnt turn off.

Thanks in advance.

Vautex's GF's VS

At a random guess, I'd say the temp sensor that feeds the computer is dodgy or has a dodgy connection. It sounds like the computer thinks the car has overheated so shuts it down and turns the fan on to cool it down to prevent any damage.

What do the computer codes show up?


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Random cutout - thermo fan - no start

Im not sure what codes show up.

It was from the holden at morely which is no where near where we live and we have had it back there plenty of times during the 5 year warranty until it ran out and it was never fixed!!!

Im have a suspicion they never changed the CAS as it kept doing it. Surely they could find the problem if anyone can. Last time they had it for a week and they said it never did it once. It did the days before and after that week....what the? Maybe just bad luck but doubt it. I had a feeling it may be the computer and they just didnt want to fork out for it.

Have you ever heard of that issue with the thermo fan before?

In rare cases (maybe even 15% of the time) it wont cold start. You turn the key, it cranks but no fire. Then the fan comes on and you cant start it until the fan stops again. Usually a minute wait, last time was almost 15 and the battery was noticeably drained as a result and nearly didnt start.

Im probably gonna take it somewhere tomorrow to have a look at...someone independant.

Is there anything I can do before hand?

Any ideas what I should say to them to point them in the right direction so I dont get ripped off.

Thanks a heap.

Random cutout - thermo fan - no start

Also, as far as I can remember they definately changed to BCM before, but im not sure about the PCM.

On another note they may have changed the DFI.

Anyway, the temp sensor sounds quite simple but definately plausible. The problem is always worse on those bitterly cold days when your windows are fogged up....maybe there is a problem with condensation and the temp sensor??



I have heard of it once before but quite a while ago and I can't remember what the cause was.

I assume you have pulled all the wiring connectors in the engine bay apart and made sure they are clean and tight?

There are a few places on the Net where you can find out how to get the codes out of the computer and what they mean. IIRC, there's a link or two in the Holdenpedia's Links Page to some sites. Just make sure you look at the VS Codes as the other models may not be the same.

Did you mean Morley in Perth? If you are in Perth, which part of Perth are you in? We may know someone to send you to who will look at it properly.

It may also pay to check out some of the specific Commodore Forums too as they'll be more expert on these than we will.


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VT cutting out

Hi all, just a newbie and found your site by Googling for my problem.

I had my power steering pump replaced along with a new drivers door electric door lock and bought a new key head as well. Last week I unlocked the car with the new key then found it wouldn't start. There was also a sound like a relay chattering coming from the dash. Couldn't do anything so I popped the bonnet and started pulling relays and fuses while also calling the RAA. He arrived within 10 min! The guy pulled a red fuse saying he was basically giving the Body Control Module a reboot.

All was fine after that but a week later the car has begun cutting out while driving along. No warning, it just stops. Sometimes it restarts straight away, sometimes it takes a minute.

The car is a 50th anniversary with ABS but I don't have the other symptoms listed like all the lights on but the last time it died the engine warning light came on the went off the next time I started the car. Dealer reckons it could be the BCM and quoted up to $600. Any opinions or ideas on my problem? I hassled the dealer about getting the error codes so I am going there tomorrow.

Sorry for the length of the post, thought it best to put in as much detail as I could.

Cheers, Paul

VT Cutting Out - fixed

It was the CAS, fixed for $150



Me again.

I have found a mech can replace the CAS for me for about $120.

From what I told him he said he couldnt tell if it was the CAS or PCM but said the CAS would be cheaper to change.

I tend to think it is more likely the PCM, which from memory gets readings from the aircon and coolant temp and activates the thermatic fan. I dont remember the CAS having anything to do with the fan at all.

Its booked in for Friday morn at this stage unless something better turns up and I may be able to get Saturday off work but I cant count on that.


not CAS

Your problem is definately not the crank angle sensor and much more likely to be the PCM. I used to be a technician with holden and while not common this problem did happen. Try and find a mate with a VS and borrow the PCM and see if it fixes the problem. Dont waste your money on a new CAS, that is not the problem.

not CAS

Hey mate. Thanks a heap for that hey. My instincts were telling me its most likely the PCM and def not the CAS.

Might have to try find another and test it. Been looking at getting a VZ now. Hope that if I pay cash and give up the VS I might grab it for 15G's if I am lucky.

Cheers again.


No fault code

ie 1 flash, pause, 2 flashes

this repeated

maybe i stuffed up, maybe not

what could this problem but send no error codes

not CAS

Also I read somewhere that the fan should run when pins 5 and 6 are bridged and the key is turned on (ie diagnostic mode)......well it doesnt

maybe I read that wrong. Can anyone confirm or deny this

cheers people

VR Won't start

Hey guys, i'm having problems with my 94 VR commodore.
It has spark and fuel going thru as i changed the injectorsn and there is fuel coming out of the lines but it just won't start. I goes to start but won't.
Could this be the crank angle sensor? And how would i know for sure if it is or not without having to replace it?


Non-starter VR

Check the computer codes. There are sites on the Net that tell you how to extract and read the computer codes.


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vr wont start

You have fuel but do you have the pressure? May be the fuel pump if its trying to kick over. Spray a *small* amount of aero start into the throttle body while some one cranks it over. If it runs for a short period you can instantly rule out a lot of problems and start looking at the fuel pressure side.

94 vr commadore want start

the car will turn over but just wont fire to start. Put new battery cause that is what it sounds like but still no go can any one help!!!!! bloody cars give your the [Naughty Pottyword]s>>>>>>>>

its the cas

its the cas

5th cylinder aint workin

I need ur advice i own a berlina vn & 3rd & 5th cylinder doesnt work i bought new coil pack now 3rd works but 5th doesnt so it isnt running as good & i dont get no pickup speed
wut would be wrong ??? can anyone help me wit this ???

What do you classify as not

What do you classify as not working, is it not sparking? if its sparking and still not working id say stuff injector. if its not sparking have a look at the Plugs, leads. also did u replace the coil pack with a Vn or VS one, as alot of people use a VS one as they are located in a better spot, and dont get heated or damaegd as easy.

Cheers Tom
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no start

hi there, i went to start my 1997 holden vs the other day when it would not start i cant here the fuel pump working with i turn the key when i fist started it it went then died as if to say theres no fuel. full tank :'( any ideas i had it diagnosed it was something to do with PSA short circuit.

Any ideas that would be great

No Start VS

Fuel Pump maybe??

Check power supply to the fuel pump and work your way back up the wiring. Sounds like the Fuel Pump has [Naughty Pottyword] itself.


vs not starting sure its the fuel pump

how hard are the fuel pumps to change on my 96 vs do you have to drain the tank?

vs hand brake warn buzzer

Hey any one got a clue why my 95 vs clubby handbrake warning buzzer comes on while driving even thou the handbrake is released it goes off about 10 time random on a 10min trip its frustrating, the light doesnt come on any more either when the handbrake is pulled up


Buzzing VS Handbrakes

One of 2 reasons at a guess...

The blown handbrake globe in the dash cluster sets it off when loose parts of the filament make contact while you're driving.


You have a broken wire between the dash and handbrake which occasionally shorts to earth (or power through another wire) and sets off the buzzer.


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vn series 1 over heating

series 1 vn v6, having problems trying to blead the air out of cooling system. can anyone help thanx...

Car wont start

hey, i have a vr 94 and having problems how rare is that (not), when i go to start it just make a clicking noise and doent even crank any ideas??


Battery, Starter, Ignition switch, Immobiliser, Battery Cables.


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Car Wont crank over

Could be the starter motor brushes worn and near the end of travel. Try tapping the starter with a hammer, this will sometimes shake the brush enought to make contact. Then try starting from the key. If it starts get the brushes replaced in the starter motor otherwies you will soon have the same problem and it may not work the second time.


VR Commodore

I have a VR Commodore. When trying to start it the engine turns over, but won't actually 'start'. All it does it continue to turn over and rumble...anyone?


A few months ago Holden replaced the harmonic balancer, although the first time they installed the wrong one (smaller), which caused few problems. I would of thought they might just have mentioned the crank angle sensor, which might of been damaged from installing this smaller harmonic balancer in the first place? (if it is possible to damage it in such a way?)

Cranky VR

What codes come up on the computer?


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Haven't had time to check,

Haven't had time to check, as I am never home, plus it's not really my car. The engine light didn't come on when I attempted to start it, so I have no idea... does the computer return codes for every function it performs?

Computer Functions

Not for every function it performs, but for every sensor...


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VP starting probs

I have changed the volt pak, crank angle sensor, computer, rear fuel pump, timing chain & guide???? I have spark and battery power but the engine wont start. it turns over but slows like its trying to compress one pot then speeds up before slowing down again???
The central locking system has a mind of its own, could only lock & enter via passenger door or entire system locks out???
next step if I cant get the correct answer in here will be a FBH, a can of petrol and a bloody match
Bernie (without the bull[Naughty Pottyword]e alias)


The fact that your central locking is playing up combined with the Crank no Fire, suggests there is an electrical fault somewhere. Grab a Multimeter and check your fuses, as one of them may have a poor contact.

Also make sure your Key Transponder battery is ok.

Your battery may also be on the way out. Even though it cranks over, there may not be enough Amps to power the fuel system at the same time. Grab a Wack Pack and earth to the engine. Crank and see what happens.


VS dying while driving

I have a VS Statesman that is dual fuel. Mostly, it is run on LPG. I appear to be experiencing similar issues, but want to get an idea on what should be checked. When the problem first started, the car was doing 80km/h (cruise) and out of nowhere the Check Engine light came on and the car gave a sort of backfire, however the car kept running. The problem hadn't surfaced for a while, however two weeks later the same thing happened (on LPG, I think cruise control was set).

A turning point, I believe, was when the car was doing 80km/h with cruise on LPG, where it lost and regained ignition about 5 times in succession, within 5-10 seconds. Now, whenever this problem occurs, the car does not backfire. It just dies, needing me to start the engine again (while the car is rolling, I put it in Neutral and start it).

It has probably happened 20 or so times on LPG, and only once on Petrol. It has also happened when cruise is not in use.

After not happening for a couple of weeks, it has happened twice today. The first time: driving on LPG with cruise at 80km/h on a highway. The second time: driving on LPG, slowing down to turn at an intersection. The second time, it would not start with the car stationary on LPG so I had to start it on Petrol.

I extracted the fault codes from the ECU:

** 46 - Crank angle reference signal (engine will not start)
[this is the first time this message has occurred. Normally, Code 47 'Crank angle reference signal (no signal)' is returned]
** 57 - Injector power supply monitor (voltage variation, terminal B12)
[this occurs when the car is switched over to LPG; a relay cuts in and removes voltage from the injectors]
** 76 - Air/fuel ratio (variation between left and right banks)

As mentioned above, Code 57 occurs when LPG is used.
I have only seen Code 76 occur when Codes 46/47 occur, and for this code the manual states to rectify causes of other faults (should they exist).

So, I'm thinking my issue is with the crank angle sensor. Are there recommendation tests you can suggest, or should I look at replacing the CAS?


engine backfires stops i

i have vs on gas i cleaned motor drove car 3klms stoped at shop then drove half k back fired stoped then i started it straight away wife drove it next day about 5ks done same she started it straight then drove it 35ks and it did not do it maybe it only does it when left for a while i was what was your problem was it same and what you had to do to fix


VS dying while driving

Hi Steven I have the same problem with my VR seriesII dual fuel.Did you fix the problem, if you did can you please tell me what was wrong.

VS dying while driving

Hi Steven I have the same problem with my VR seriesII dual fuel.Did you fix the problem if you did can you please tell me what was wrong.

vr statesman no pulse to injectors

We had no pulse to our v8 5ltr ststesman. after $3000 and 7 trips to holden it was the HALL EFFECT SENSOR. Even throught we had spark the sensor was faulty. changed sensor and its bee 7 weeks and still going strong.

hello all

i have spent the last hour or so looking at all the posts and one thing comes to mind, people should read back to find their answers

vs commodore oil light and engine light

My vs commodores oil and engine light came on. I had no acceleration pressure the engine sounded rattly so I had the oil filter and oil pump replaced and still the same. Was told I needed a new motor so after payiny for a new motor and having the car back now for about 2 weeks. The car had been running fine until last night when the same thing happened oil and engine light came on and no acceleration pressure.. I pulled over and waited for about 5 mins and the car started but i am to scared to drive it as i have a one year old daughter with me. any ideas what is wrong i will be taking it back to the mechanics next week. Thanks Nicky

VT Clubsport Won't Start

Got a '98 VT Clubby 195i that occasionally won't start. All the lights come on car will lock and unlock with the new key (new key won't start the car). The original key has died (battery) but still starts the car. The ignition ring has recently been replaced and it was working fine. We replaced the car battery but this hasn't helped. Apparently the original immobiliser which requires the red and black keys has been by-passed but there is a secondary immobiliser fitted by Holden. Is there any suggestions or are we up for a new security system? Thanks


How do reset the service reminder on a vt commodore?

instructions are in...

The owners handbook, in the trip computer section.

Download the VIN and Paint Code Program
Cuddys Option Coder Program


Hi ya just wondering if anyone can help. I have a VS commodore and about 12 months ago on the first hot day of summer drove about 4/5 km turned of car and about 15 mins later when went to start again it wouldnt start. Was told it was fuel pump so it was replaced still wouldnt start, then was told it was a wiring problem to fuel pump so that was fixed. All went well until on our first hot day here last week same problem has happened again. Have been told again that it is the fuel pump, but now it will restart in about 1 hour only to run for about 15 mins before again turning itself of while driving. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

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