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G'day Knackers

Wonderin if I could get an indicator of how much it'd cost to re-spray the EJ ute. I think it was re-sprayed a couple of years back, but it was a bit of a rush job on straight'n out the panels an now the the color has faded a bit so its startin to show. Theres bugger all rust (just a bit on the front quarters near the drains). The finish I'm after is just a basic white two pac, but before I went out an started gettin quotes I thought I might try an get a ball-park cost of what I should be looking for. (got a lot of good advice over the last 6 months over this site - I appreciate all the help!!!)

In my current situation in Melb, dont really have the time or space to be pullin the ute to bits, so it'd be a drive in - drive out job, that'd be what I'm after.

Burnsie

Model: 

Comments

Expect to pay up to $800 on the paint alone.
Im in the same situation but Im lookin at gettin it prof done.
faded paint and bodgey jobs will only help the rust do its job quicker.

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In addition to the paint I am also looking to get it professionally done. I am also looking for a bit of info on the cost to have it stripped down and taken back to bare metal and re-sprayed. Just not in a good situation to have a crack at it myself at the moment.....thanx for paint info

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The less you do yourself the more it'll cost and that aint cheap, most work starts at at least $50 an hour these days. You don't say how much of a job you want -like showpiece or bog up and blow-over, but it could (and probably will) easily outweigh the cost and replacement value of your car. A proper paint stripdown and good quality paint job involves so much work it will cost you at least 5 grand but probably more, especially if you really want it done to the full affect and have all the glass and interior etc. removed, and if you want the engine bay properly done the engine at least should come out too. Even if you can do simple things like remove the bumpers and trim you'll save stacks. Any rust or bent panels will add more too.
Of course if your recovering from an accident with a big $$$ payout, have a very friendly sponsor or your loaded anyway, it should'nt worry you too much!
{UTES ARE BEAUT}
70ute.

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there are no stupid questions only stupid people

G,day Burnsie.
Streetneat here. If you have been following this site then you may be familiar with what I do . I own /operate Street Neat Panels Rod & Custom. I personally wont be able to help you (unless you want to stick it on a truck and ship it up to me). The first bit of advise I would give is to talk to others in your area and find out what they have had done and who done it , to similar sorts of vehicles.
A quick smooth up and blow over will keep your ute on the street for a bit longer and looking good- if that is all you want then I would suggest to go for a middle price range quote. However be aware of the obvious- what ever repairs lie underneath may decide to let go at a later date .
No one can predict how long quick repairs will last. Normally if they are just bogging over rust then expect the repairs to be lasting only a short time. If they clean out the rust and fibre glass bog the rust and finish with regular bog, then expect the repairs to last quite a bit longer. Especialy if they drown the car in rust proofing such as Tectyl or Fisholene.
The best case scenario that will set you back many dollars would be a bare metal job with all the rust repairs properly plated and evidence of the rusty parts shown to you . Make sure you ask how the repairs are going to be done and will they be butt welding or lap joining the repairs. Some (read most) shops have little idea on what is involved with rust removal. They simply roughly cut out some of the worst of the rust and tack weld a larger plate over the affected area. They then bog over the whole lot and bash it all in to get rid of the high spots. The truoble with this is they are charging premium prices for a sub standard job.BEWARE!!! You may think that the rust has been cut out and they have shown the evidence of this. The problem is this sort of repair lasts about as long as the bog up job. Why? becuase they have not removed and cleaned all the rust. Followed by the fact it is not fully welded and the join has been wiped over with bog. Bog is HYDROSCOPIC ! This means it will absorb moisture and bubble up in a short time. The least they could do is wipe a thin smear of glass bog over the repair to seal off the join. A wipe of seam sealer on the inside of the repair followed up with rust proofing is preferable as well.Sometimes the inside of the repair is not accesable-try and get some rust proofing in there anyhow.
All rust repairs I do are butt welded - normally by oxy and hammer welded at the same time. For lower 1/4 panel replacement or lower door skins these are lap jointed and mig welded. (because they are often in accseable with a dolly from the other side of the panel.)
ALL joins even though fully welded are wiped with a thin layer of glass bog to prevent moisture seeping through any microscopic pin holes in the join. Every job is rustproofed.
Here is a rough guide to what you would expect to pay ;
OPTION 1: Buzz back whole car and remove any unsound paint . Repair and clean with fibre glass any MINOR rust repairs. Smooth up minor dings in blade putty. Remove bumpers and tailights and other easy to remove items - mask up the rest .Two pack prime whole job. A quick lick of colour inside (as long as you are keeping to a similar colour or a solid non metallic colour).Rub down and two pack paint whole job. Rust proofing included. Price - for a car with little wrong with it and reasonably sound paint - about $2800. goes up from there with more repairs needed on the body or windscreen / glass removal needed.Time frame - about one to two weeks.
Option two : same as above but remove individual panels and more items from car -normally means replacing stuff (such as glass, rubbers, hoodling,etc . Job outwardly appears same as above but has a bit more detail such as new parts to look at.
Price - about $3500 plus parts required. This option is the one most go for these days. Time frame - about two to three weeks. Option three: Full blown restoration. Only the best parts go into this job. Only the best car with little rust should be contemplated for this job. Unfortunatley that does not happen very often. Car is gutted and fully dissasembled. Subframe is -and as many parts as possible-Satin black powdercoated. All chrome redone. Vehicle is sand blasted - epoxy primed ,Panel beaten -spray bogged ,Epoxyprimed again followed by several applications of Two pack primer. The car shell now lives on a body pallet. Fully two pack painted with a top shelf line of paint. All items on the car are reconditioned or replaced. Car is rewired - re -upholstered. Mechanicals are reconditioned .Lots of photos taken and fun had by all. Owner normally has some input such tackling the mechanical restoratin and chasing some parts. Also some assembly work is done by the owner after we have done our thing.
Price- depending on what the owner supplies and does- Paint and panel only - about $8000 Includes rustproofing and some assembly such as panels hung and swung and rubber kit fitted. Does not include powdercoating or sandblasting costs. May also include stainless trim fitted and bumpers tailights etc. Depends on customer requirements . Price is plus parts and third party -sublet work such as glass and upholstery, blasting ,coating, chroming etc.
Well Burnsie you asked the question - hope this gives you and others some insight and usefull help . Remember rustproofing is cheap! Don't accept rustproofing quotes above $150. Ask the shops on how they go about their job and what is involved.Also how long. Can they put you in contact with others that they have done? What hidden costs are there?
Ask around locally.
Cheers -streetneat......

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Cheap, Fast, Good - pick two.
If its cheap and its fast - it wont be good.
If its good and its cheap - it wont be fast.
If its fast and its good - it wont be cheap.

StreetneatShed

Streetneat
sorry to be a bother matey
i am looking at getting all the panels of a HQ tonner done all of them will be seperate from the body (eg. Cab, doors, bonnet, nose cone, front end will all be seperated, dismantalled) if i wanted to get the chassis painted how much (only rustproofing and paint no panel work) also with all the panels rustproofing and painting No panel work no work basically except the painting itself. Im looking at like a midnight blue (subaru blue) paint not sure whether two-pac acrylic or what not, not to educated on the options. If you could let me know a ballpark figure for both of these applications could you let me know, be a huge load off my mind (for your information the whole panel will be painted, inside and out of door panels and under bonnet and inside engine bay and inside cab)
Thanks Matey
Jackson

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Streetneat, where are you based?

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Any infor would be good on rustproofing streetneat how does it work etc how long it lasts.
How much does sandblasting usually cost too buddy
Thanks

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