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202 Carb problem

Engine stalled today and wouldn't start back up. Pouring fuel into it fires over but then it coughs and struggles to stay going then chokes out when accelerator is pumped. Also had problems starting in the cold so I'm thinking they are related. Visually nothing appears to be a problem and the fuel filter is new.
Should I overhaul the Carby or is there something I should look at first?

Thanks in advance

Engine: 

Comments

Clean or replace the filter. Even if as you say its new it might be blocked.

While it is disconnected blow air back to the tank and that will clear the line.
Reconnect the line and filter at the pump. Check if the glass bowl has any crap in there, if so - clean.
Now disconnect the fuel line at the carburettor and using a container of some sort to catch fuel, crank the engine over until fuel firstly appears in the pump glass bowl, then pumps out the line to the carburettor.

If it fails to pump, you might have a failed pump.

Was it running ok before it stopped or did it gradually die? If it was running ok, leave the carburettor alone at this stage. My guess is a fuel delivery problem as you say it starts and runs with fuel directly poured in the carburettor throat.

We are staying tuned for more information.

regards,Rod

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Was running fine before hand but has just been hard to start when cold but once warm starts straight away. I'll check the fuel lines tomorrow. I don't have a glass bowl... It goes straight from the filter to the pump and then carb.

Locky

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Glass bowl is on the fuel pump in early red motors.
If you haven't got one, your motor probably has a Commodore fuel pump.
David

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Old is good.

Needle and seat may be blocked

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I Know It's Old But It WORKS.

Or blocked new filter old ones only flow one way sounds as that it's not getting fuel to me,also give the carby a light tap helps settle the needle an seat if under differnt load happens all the time when rebuilding carbs,the good thing about Carbys is that you can see if there working .

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๐Ÿ‘พ๐Ÿ‘พ๐Ÿ‘พ๐Ÿ‘พ๐Ÿ‘พ๐Ÿ‘พ๐Ÿ‘พ

๐Ÿ–•๐Ÿฟ

I would put my hand over the carb while the engine is at revs.

Any jet blockage may clear and save you the cost of gaskets and the effort and time.

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T

My Shed

Holdenpaedia, they're the brakes Mate.

were you running low on fuel in the tank? My HR did something similar - it ran fine but one day I ran it a bit low and some crap got in the line through the filter in the pump and through the extra in line filter I have before the carby and then I had all kinds of problems with fuel level in the bowl. I put a basic $45 carby overhaul kit through the carby and a thorough clean of everything and its been perfect ever since. I just make sure I always have a 1/4 tank or more. No doubt some rust or other in the tank and no doubt why the additional filter was installed by the previous owner. I'd start by checking the float level and spraying some carby cleaner down the throat.

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Andrew

I had a similar issue with the wifes car, I chased all the above mentioned suggestions. Even had the carbie professionally rebuilt then cleaned up a second time. In the end it was the fuel tank. It had stale fuel, it always stunk. Also the sender unit had rusted to bits and rust scale was entering the fuel system. I'd run the tank dry once and figured that the crap fuel was all gone but each time I put fresh fuel in it would be contaminated by the residual off fuel (the car wasn't rego'd at that stage so it was only ever at idle and reving whilst stationary) I ended up dropping the tank and getting it cleaned up and new fuel sender, its been good since.

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Bryan

What T said.

Crank it straight from cold and see if it pulls any fuel up.

It's a good rough bush check to see where you stand.

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Disclaimer :- The above is purely speculation and is only posted for entertainment purposes!!!

I'm thinking it would more than likely be a fuel issue as once fuel is poured down carb it first instantly and could be the explanation for cold start troubles

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Also note that the copper washers can be a source of hard starting when the engine is cold ...

http://holdenpaedia....

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T

My Shed

Holdenpaedia, they're the brakes Mate.

Thanks mate. I'll be checking that over the weekend. Is a carb rebuild hard to do and time consuming? I wouldn't mind doing one for peace of mind

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It's easy enough to do.

Take care with the following.

1. Use a can of carb cleaner.
2. Get a small ruler to check float level.
3. Install the copper washers as per the link. If they're not installed the right way they will leak.
4. Go gently with the accelerator pump diaphragm so that it won't be damaged during install. Maybe a small amount of oil to help it enter.
5. Loosen the top cover screws a little bit at a time. They can strip out if not handled gently. Same when retightening.
6. There is a special tool for removing the main jet. If you blow carb cleaner through you may not need to remove it.
7. Set the choke as per the manual. Set the knob 1/8" protruding from the dash as you tighten the outer and inner cable otherwise it won't open and close properly.
8. 1/2" and 9/16" pipe spanners are best for removing and tightening the fuel pipe.

Post up if you have any dramas.

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T

My Shed

Holdenpaedia, they're the brakes Mate.

Take photos as you disassemble.

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Disclaimer :- The above is purely speculation and is only posted for entertainment purposes!!!

After putting an overhaul kit through and having a mechanic fit an electronic distributor the HR had developed throttle hesitation. There is a slight backfire when reved from idle and its responsive and jumpy, however when reved more is hesitates and is a little jerky. The more it revs the more it hesitates.
What would be the most likely cause? Blockage? Air leak? Timing should be good if mechanic did his job properly?
The carb has no pvc hooked up as per pic
Thanks in advance

AttachmentSize
Image icon Does everything look normal?1.99 MB
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Make sure the plug leads are in the correct positions (Firing Order 153624) ....

http://holdenpaedia....

Here's what the symptoms will be like if the plug leads are wrong ...

https://www.youtube....

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T

My Shed

Holdenpaedia, they're the brakes Mate.

The Fuel Pipe connection at the carb has an heavy twist which might cause Fuel starvation.

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T

My Shed

Holdenpaedia, they're the brakes Mate.

I took the fuel pipe out and it seems to blow through fine. Might be worth changing this to eliminate problem. Should any of the valves on the carb have hoses hooked up? It has a Holley style filter on it and doesn't have any plumbing hooked up anywhere? They are all blocked... Should it be able to breathe through any of these?
Cheers

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The largest one allows the Float Chamber to breathe. This one must be open to the air in some way.

Block the others off.

I can't see how your vacuum advance is plumbed.

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T

My Shed

Holdenpaedia, they're the brakes Mate.

The largest one to the float chamber is currently blocked off which I did think was weird. Which one is the vacuum advanced?

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Looking at below photo. The pipe to distributor is blocked off. The pipes to canister and EGR valve are joined together via a small hose.
Is it important for the electronic dizzy to be hooked up to the Carby as it is currently hooked up to a tap which comes off the inlet manifold.

http://holdenpaedia....

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I think I have answered my own question after lots of readings and will try connecting the vac advance from the distributor to the carb.
Thanks anyway guys

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