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Hunting for 186 powerglide 2 speed transmission kickdown lever

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Hi all,
I'm looking for this lever pictured as no. 7 here. It's been broken off of my powerglide 2 speed transmission. It's from the HK 186 kingswood.

Does anyone here have a spare one or know of a good contact that may be able to supply one. Also if anyone knows of a reputable old Holden transmission service centre, that would be much appreciated.
Thanks

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I help can't with the kick down!
But I like your boot mat! Where did you get it?

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You've been stitched!๐Ÿ˜‰

Email me
HOLDEN DOCTOR

Have a chat to Paul. Number is 9354 1275.
They also did all the internal trim.

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you could try dave smith at bellarine classic autos,he has most things for hk-t-g

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Just spoke with Dave and he's able to make one up for me.
A small cost of $50.00 to do...
Thanks for the advice!!!

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Can you make one?

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Maybe this is what I may need to do...
Thanks

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It's interesting that someone has written the word "Relay" alongside item 4.

Maybe there's potential for fitting a solenoid there and converting the mechanism to electrically switch activated as with an electric kickdown Trimatic.

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T

My Shed

Holdenpaedia, they're the brakes Mate.

Hi Miami, you asked about this earlier so here's some info.

Without that rod fitted and correctly adjusted, the Powerglide will shift from L to D at 12mph or thereabouts. If you just touch the accelerator and proceed, the box will upshift at 12mph normally. If you have your foot flat to the floor the box will upshift with a huge shudder at 12mph.

When that rod is correctly installed and adjusted the box will upshift at proportionately higher road speeds depending upon throttle position.
You want to adjust it so that the box won't kickdown at speeds higher than, say, 40-42 mph. (the repair manual has the correct specs somewhere). You can set it to downshift the box at higher speeds but 50mph is 5000 rpm in low and that's about maximum rpm if I remember correctly.
Also, if the rod is 'overadjusted' you'll have to lift your foot from the accelerator pedal for upshift to occur.

If you get the car on the road before you get the rod fitted, (and replace rod's mounting spindle on the box) you can put the box in L and when you get up to a suitable speed you can manually shift up to D. Downshift manually above 12mph if needed rather than have the box shuddering. The box should downshift below 12mph by itself.

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Getting a lever made up in the next week or so.
I'm taking the car to have this lever professionally put on and the transmission serviced.
Really appreciate all the input on this one.
Regards
Miami

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Thanks for your info. I'll add it to the Powerglide Page.

Photos of the linkages I've seen over the years show the linkages suffering from lack of lubrication, due to the loss of lubricant, the loss of lubricant due to the exhaust heat.

Since the operation is class D (on or off), it might as well be electric like the last Trimatics. Partial positioning of the rod might be related to and a cause of the shudder

Some sort of industrial solenoid, activated by the Throttle, might prove less trouble long term, easier and cheaper to maintain if something does fail.

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T

My Shed

Holdenpaedia, they're the brakes Mate.

I took that to mean 'relay rod' where someone had written 'relay'. But I don't know.

I am curious to know though.... what prevents an automatic transmission from kicking down if it's going to cause the engine to overspeed by doing so? Talking pre-ECU days with this one.

An aside: my boss was driving home on the freeway in his HK 307 Prem about 35 years ago and doing about 55 he manually shifted to L to really get moving. He upshifted, or rather, though he upshifted to D at 70 mph but he muffed it. Nek minute over 85mph in L, absolutely screaming its head off.

Held together ok.

I think that V8 suited Powerglides may have had a higher maximum upshift speed in front of the 2.78.
I'll dig the HK repair book out and post info if I remember.

...Diabolical brakes on that thing, power boosted 4 wheel drum brakes, forever adjusting them to try to keep the car pulling up straight.

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After spending a few years with my head buried in Holden parts books I would say the part was later termed a relay rod after being superseded from an original part number. Probably changed as a result of actual electrical relays being introduced into the parts catalogue.

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When adjusting the detent lever, it's important for the accelerator linkages to be set correctly beforehand.

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