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What spray gun set up to use

Preparing to spray car. Using acrylic metallic Persian Sands 2. Is HVLP better than conventional gun and what nozzle size to use. My hvlp has only a 1.4mm nozzle where as my old type is 2 mm nozzle. Some say with acrylic 2 mm is better suited than smaller size.
Also other advice is to give 3 coats of color and clear over the top. Old school,advice is to 1200-1500 the color and then clear and then1500-2000 and buff for finish.Any thoughts appreciated.

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1. For Acrylic a 1.8 tip is ideal.

2. I prefer old school suction type pots under gun for Acrylic rather than gun gravity type HVLP guns.

3. A 1.4mm tip is more suited to 2k colour and some thin 2k type primers such as Epoxy. I wouldn't use a 1.4mm for Acrylic especially metallic. Also, likely find the HVLP gun is not meant to be used in the PSI range for Acrylic which is 40-55 PSI vs generally under 30 for 2k. Your old 2.0mm may do the job better.

4. Never touch the base coat colour with sand paper unless there's a flaw you need to remove and then you will need to re colour before clear if you disturb it. I don't know where you got the idea of sanding the 'metallic' colour coat, but it's wrong and will result in obvious as dogs balls problems seen through the clear. "Colour sanding" is sanding solid colours that don't need clear over them.

5. You need to give as many coats of colour that are needed, no more or less. If 2 coats cover everything and it's no longer transparent that you can see through to any undercoat then two is fine. It's look and see and no hard fast rule as it depends on the colour of undercoat beneath, the amount the paint is thinned, the opacity of it, the way you have layed down the coats etc etc. Some brands of paint now are just plain rubbish and require more coats - thus they sell more paint because of lousy coverage. You won't get many tradesman still buying Acrylic and those that sell it know it.

6. It's the clear coats that you should aim to get more of on, because that is what you sand and buff and will gradually lose over time. You need enough on that you won't wear through to the base coat anytime soon. Enough to give it "depth of gloss" as if you're looking through glass or still water

7. Don't wimp out on the clear or thinners. Use decent brand of both and you'll get a better end result.

8. Don't rush things or you will get solvent entrapment.

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Thanks for that . Appreciate the advice and will take heed on your suggestions Cheers

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BiggsyHXPremier

Ted has covered it all except no 4. Disagree with not giving the metallic a sand prior to clearing. Alright to say it's wrong and will result in problems. What problems? I would use 1500 to sand before clearing, but it's up to you if you want to go to the extra effort. You don't need to rub back the paint before clearing. I used solid paint on my car, sanded it smooth, then cleared it. Long process, but it looks good. Acrylic is soft, so use lots of running water when sanding, so you don't leave deep scratches. These days it's all about 2 pac and a lot of tradesman do not know how to apply acrylic, hence why they do not buy it.

Keith

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Cheers
Keith

One reason is sanding metallic will create a one dimensional aspect to the way the metallic particicles reflect light. By sanding you will literally be breaking and tearing away any particle that is not laying completely flat on the surface. So, a metallic finish sprayed properly will always be rough because of the particles lodged in the paint at different angles to one another. This may lead some to think it needs sanding.

They don't buy it because it's no longer used or recommended in the industry and is actually now banned in parts of the world. It's more labour intensive to use and get the desired result. It's considered environmentally unfriendly because of all the release of solvents into the atmosphere, hence the ban. It's not as durable as it once was because of removal of lead and other god only knows ingredients. As you say there's probably a lot of tradesman in the industry that were never taught to use it. The quality and durability has definately slipped over time because backyard ameturers are now it's predominant market.

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Good explanation Ted. I hit the "like" button on that one.
Cheers
Keith

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Cheers
Keith

Ted and Keith, thanks. Will be referring to this post in time.

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"It was then I knew I'd had enough, burned my credit card for fuel
Headed out to where the pavement turns to sand...."

Cheers, John

Ol Ted's on the money. You shouldn't rub back a metallic base before clear for the exact reasons he mentioned. Solid is a different thing.

But if you gotta ask these types of questions, then you probably not gunna get a shmick base down off the gun. So he's gunna have to rub out a few runs, couple of [Naughty Pottyword] ups and a bit of peel here and there.

Rubbing your runs out will look better than leaving them in there :)

And as said earlier, don't be a tight [Naughty Pottyword] on you clear and thinners. The better the product, the better the job and the easier to apply.

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You know your stuff also it would seem old Hughie.....

Keith

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Cheers
Keith

Just what I read on a old car forum by some keyboard vehicle restorer. Never done any of it :)

Much love.

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I have found not to use to much spray putty unless you like paint chips hard outer soft centre,I rub my cars back after painting with wet an dry 2000 with a cake of soap in the bucket an change water a lot try not to do it while the paint is hot as well acrylic is like plastic an if the paint is newish you can put YA thumb print init on a hot day even three days after it drying try not to do circles an stay away from corners .good thinners make a big difference in the shine as well the panel shouldn't be totally smooth before paint it needs some thing to stick to.say for instance bare metal needs scotch brighting......I have TRYED mixing paint with clear you will not get a decent shine ...as far as rubbing back before clear coat yes I agree be careful not to add any contamination as clear coat is harder then paint try rubbing back a car yard wet coat twenty years old ..spray the clear before the paint has totally cured !!! An while painting in between coats look for the flash off thats where the solvents evaporate an leave a dull look before the next coat try not to get total Colour coverage in your first pass an yes the colour of your under coat matters,metallic paint should be sandered after clear coats then more if YA fussy after more clear coats on top

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mark

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Bryan

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