Hoodlining replacement

Gday, if its an original vinyl hoodlining try not to leave it out of the car for too long before refitting as they have a habit of shrinking, if its an aftermarket material type hoodling this wont shrink when left out for a while.
You will have to remove your front & rear screens, (climb inside and you and a buddy gently push with your bare feet spaced evenly on the inside of the glass near the top of the screen and push the screen out in unison, too much pressure one side or the other and acracked/ shattered screen will be the result, make sure theres a buddy standing outside ready to catch the screen as well) rear parcel shelf, sunvisors, interior rear veiw mirror, pinch welting from around the door frames then remove the old hood lining carefully.
Before refitting the replacement hoodlining check the material that the hood bows slide thru as these can be brittle and burnt from the heat on your roof, if they are a good Upholsterer will be able to replace these so the hoodlining doesnt drop on you after going to all the trouble of fitting it up.
Once the old hoodlining has been removed clean around the tops of the door frames and around the window frames where the old glue from the last hoodlining was with a solvent like prepsol or wax and grease remover, dont worry too much about old glue thats stuck on there super good as this will be covered by the new glue anyway.
Start in the middle and replace the hood bows thru the hoodlining, then slip one end into the hole in the inside of the roof frame, then slide on over to the other side and do the same, except this side will be hard to do as the hood bows have a fair bit of spring in them, be patient and get a friend to help, maybe using a flat blade screw driver to help guide the hood bow into the hole being careful at the same time not too slip and stick it thru your new hoodlining.
Once all hood bows are in place, try gently pulling the hoodlining around the wind screen frame and using a few stationary spring paper clips clamp the hood lining into place then go to the rear window frame and do the same.
The aim here is to get the hoodlining centred before you start gluing anything.
Once you are satisfied the hoodlining isnt too short and will fit neatly front and rear remove some of the clamps from the middle and using a glue like bear contact, start applying it to the frame and hoodlining, then when it has tacked off and is dry to the touch, carefully fold the hoodling around the frame and replace the clamps to hold it into place, keep going until the windscreen frames have had the hoodlining glued all the way around.
The HK-T-G sedans have a large rear pillar section, so try and get all the door opening sections glued into place first before tackling the section of the rear door frames where the rear pillar section of the lining meets.
Once all bar this section has been done, you may need to get a hold of a hair dryer that blows a good flow of hot air to smooth the wrinkles if any from the pillar sections.
Start by pulling the lining down around the bottom of the rear window and gluing down, making sure the glue is tack dry each time, take your time doing this as its very easy to rip the vinyl when trying to undo the glue if stuck down too early and ending up crooked.
Once the hoodlining is fully fitted and you are happy with the fit, refit the pinch welting around the door frames.
Take your front and rear screens and remove the rubbers then thoroughly clean all the old sealer off including the glass.
Then using a quality sealer like say sikaflex for instance, run a bead around the inside of the rubber where the glass sits, then fit the glass back into the rubber.
Then using a thin nylon rope (1/4inch will do) wrap that around the groove in the outter part of the windscreen rubber starting in the middle at the bottom, working it all the way around then over lap it at the bottom and tape the rope into place.
You will need one or two mates at this stage to hold the windscreen in place and apply a light pressure to it while you gently, working both rope ends to pull the rubber over the lip on the inside.
Occasionally get your mate on the outside using the soft underside of his fist (beside his little finger) to thump the glass to settle it into place as you go or alternatively use a SOFT rubber mallet.
Once the screens are in place, using the end of the calking gun run sealer around the rubber and the body to seal it from any water leaking in, doing the same between the rubber and glass.
Some put the sealer into the groove where the rope goes but this can leave a hell of a mess to clean up inside the car doing it this way when the rope comes out covered in a tacky interior staining goo.
Once all sealing is completed, use the wax and grease remover to remove any sealer smeared on the outside of the car.
A good idea is once it is nice and clean, leave it to set into place, then the next day give it a good soapy wash over, then chamois it off and apply wax over where ever you have used the wax and grease remover because as the name states it removes both wax and grease.
If there are any wrinkles left normally a hair dryer and a lil patience will smooth them out.
A little long winded, but I hope you get the gist of whats needed?
Relatively easy job if you tackle it 'gently as she goes'.

Wishing you luck mate, Pig (oinks308)

Hi, I do have a question about fitting a new hood lining to 1964 eh wagon. I removed the old hoodlining about two years ago and I think I have worked out that you start with fitting the two center rod first, and fitting the next thin rod over the pointy tabs and pushing the tabs up to lock wires in place.Working to the rear and having the old hood lining to look at it looks like the hoodlining is just folded up two or three times and just pushed up in the gap and hope it finds the teeth to hing onto.Is this right?

Thanks
Ben