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Yella Terra Roller Rockers: YT-ST2031

I have some slightly noisy std 202 rockers & bridges. These were replaced as new units 10000mls ago. I checked them out & some wiggle in all directions when I move them by hand. Had a guts full of thise s**t design so time to get new rollers I reckon.

Has anyone had any experience with YT-ST2031 rockers? I hear they're adjustable but the adjustment is on the pushrod seat of the rocker. How then can you adjust these down when if engine is running?? By moving your spanner up & down really quickly, in time with the rocker? LOL

In the meantime, is it still ok to keep running the engine ie will a rocker throw a leg out in this condition?

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what specs is your head, spring pressures etc??

"Part# ST2031 - Yella Terra Street Terra shaft type roller rocker set to suit Holden 186 and 202ci Red motors and 3300 Blue and Black motors. Direct bolts on with no machining required. Economically priced, entry level rollers that have a strong vacuum die formed light weight arm designed for high performance street and budget race applications that do not have excessively high valve spring pressures. For use with hydraulic camshafts. Includes 5/16 shafts, adjustable valve lash and rocker arm ratio is 1.5 : 1"

rockers like these are meant to be a basic busget alternative to stock.

they are designed for hydraulic lifters, and are really supposed to be set once with the engine not running - then being hydraulic, the lifters take care of themselves. not really intended to be set with the engine running. preload the pushrods approx 1/4 to 1/2 turn into the lifter from zero lash.

cant comment on the loose rockers without seeing them first hand im afraid.

if you want better ones, youre going to need to remove your head and have it machined for screw in studs and guide plates and stud mount rockers. big $$$, hence why yella terra offer these cheaper alternatives.

EDIT sorry i was thinking you were accusing the st2031 of being loose etc. now i see you were talking of the stock rockers.

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I have used a set of Street-terras on the speedway donk...using both Hyd. and solid cams. A good budget roller rocker.

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Q-ball.

"Clay is for racing on,Tar is how you get there!!"
[http://gallery.oldho...|My Shed]
3401

file the bottom of the bridges posts to get the clearance back to zero!

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Thanks for the feedback.

Ben - running new stock springs & going to install a torquey hydraulic cam with a little more lift.
Qball - thanks, these sound perfect for my simple setup.

Decided to go the whole hog. The place in Aussie has also recommended 'Trust' pushrods (.80 & hi carbon) are these any good? Also, I have picked up 'Sealed Power' lifters in a NOS box of parts off Trademe - are these satisfactory quality? I read here that the Comp Cams lifters are the business.

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trend pushrods????

if so, theyre good. just pricey.

i would suggest you will not notice ANY seat of the pants difference with roller rockers and trend pushrods compared to stock pushrods and rockers set up with appropriate preload.

make sure your valve springs can handle what lift your cam gives the valves. maybe they will need upgrading as stock springs have VERY low seat pressure, you might find valve bounce at under 4000rpm and that damages parts.

sealed power are just a budget lifter, they work ok though. my preference is CROW lifters.

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Cheers Ben,

Sorry, yes - Trend.

I have a Crow Cams 35613 cam which they reckon will work well with stock springs etc - similar to an LP Gas Cam. The set up I'm going for a torquey & reliable setup that extends the rev range a little as I have a 173 in an HQ. My main goal is to freshen the train & beable to adjust the rockers in the future & something that wont wear - I'm sick of a noisy top end. The YT ST2031s are about 1/3 more expensive than getting the stock junk so worthwhile IMHO.

When checking my stock rockers, all pushrods were turning well but some rockers we'rnt getting much oil at running temperature which probably explains the wear & rattle - stuffed lifters? Everything was initially torqued to the Dealers Engine manual so a bit baffling.

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i think youre over thinking things, personally.

stock stuff will be fine (pushrods, rockers etc)

why do you feel the need to adjust the valves?? your cam is so small it will be a set and forget, it will easily outlast your 173 (cause you'll probably want more power sooner than later) and you will feel no difference between rollers and stock rockers.

if your valvetrain was noisy, something was/is wrong. the stock rocker gear in good order is reliable and quiet. get another set of pushrods, rockers, bridges etc. from the wreckers, fit new CROW lifters with your cam and call it a day. or feel free to spend around $180 on some trend pushrods and another $300+ on roller rockers for no real gain.

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"I have some slightly noisy std 202 rockers & bridges. These were replaced as new units 10000mls ago. I checked them out & some wiggle in all directions when I move them by hand. "

Typically this is caused by stretched Bolts allowing the Saddle to move around.

It may also be that the Bolts are loose. Check the Torque on them.

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T

My Shed

Holdenpaedia, they're the brakes Mate.

Hi T,
Thanks for the feedback.
Not on this occasion - the saddles are firm & hard down against the posts & all the bolts are tight. I put a torque wrench set @ 28flb over the lot & it clicked straight away. The only movement is in the arm.

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Hi Red,

I'd like to know more about the trouble you're having.

For Street use, these are very much set and forget for the rest of the Engine's life unless some catastrophe has occurred.

A little Side Play in the Rockers is normal. The Side Play is taken up when the Lifters fill up after Startup.

Another concern is where the Rocker meets the Valve Stem. This must be a smooth surface. Any sign of wear will play havoc with the Lifter causing it to adjust itself to death.

Have you had any Oil Dramas?

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T

My Shed

Holdenpaedia, they're the brakes Mate.

Hi T, Yeah thanks, a continuing saga really.

I replaced everything above the pushrods up when I had the head refurbished 10,000 mls ago - rockers, springs & bridges, all brand new.
That only really leaves the cam, lifters & pushrods. The cam was either new or regrind as the shortblock was rebuilt when it threw a ring then the head was second hand when it dropped a valve 60,000 mls ago. The pushrods are all I would assume are original.

I had the head totally rebuilt being fully cleaned, with seats, guides, face skimmed true, & a bit of bowl work - I did see that the face was getting down as the wee depressions in the HiComp face were almost gone.
I know all the suggested new gear may sound extravagant for my purposes but I have some spare cash & just want to get it sorted with some nice, reliable gear from the ground up which will see me through & enable me to adjust anything that needs adjusting.

A cam-up refurbish will eliminate all unknowns, then I can just sit back & enjoy the drive ;).... hopefully.

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Many thanks for your detailed reply.

I remember ages ago you had one Pushrod that was Oil varnished, possibly caused by a slow Lifter or the Rocker not sealing with Pushrod properly.

I'm wondering if the Lifters have problems. If they are worn out they will make an increasing Rattle as the RPM increases under Acceleration.

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T

My Shed

Holdenpaedia, they're the brakes Mate.

Correct T, I replaced a lifter. That lobe still seems to be there (by eye) & everything is turning & lifting well. The rattle decreases & disappears after around 1800rpm at a guess. Runs smoothly @ 90mph. Hows that for a head scratcher?
My thought is that the gear hasnt seen enough oil & the rockers in the odd place have worn some of the bridges out, hence the lash & the wobbly movement of the rocker.

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"The rattle decreases & disappears after around 1800rpm at a guess. Runs smoothly @ 90mph. Hows that for a head scratcher?"

It sounds like worn out Lifters to me. They are losing pressure between each Plunger and Lifter when the workload increases (the Cam Lobes pass at an increased Rate putting a greater load on them).

That happened on my 173. New Lifters improved the Acceleration by keeping the Valves operating at the correct Time and the Noise went away.

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T

My Shed

Holdenpaedia, they're the brakes Mate.

That defiantly sounds plausible. So can you replace lifters without replacing the cam? I read here earlier that most reckon it will wear a lobe off.

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I've fitted new Lifters on many occasions, not replaced the Cam and run those Engines to high mileage without further incident.

If the Lifters still rotate then the Cam still has the proper grind it needs.

It would be a problem if any of the Lifters no long rotated.

Always make sure the Lifters are Oil filled before installation and that the Pushrods rotate properly once the Lifters have primed.

I've also successfully transferred operationally good Lifters between Engines.

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T

My Shed

Holdenpaedia, they're the brakes Mate.

Thats great to know going forward, thanks T

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Thanks for your feedback too.

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T

My Shed

Holdenpaedia, they're the brakes Mate.

Correction - that should be 90kph lol.

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I never doubted your ability to make it run at 150 kph.

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T

My Shed

Holdenpaedia, they're the brakes Mate.

on fancy pushrods. Std do the trick for me, although, I'm using the long ones under 1.6 rollers with a high lift cam. Maybe your current pushrods are the wrong ones... too short. Remove one.. all, to be sure, and measure them. If they are the long ones then the 'base circle' measurement maybe wrong. The pedastals need reducing in hight if the cam has more lift than stock.

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They don't make em like they used too!

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