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Hyd vs. Solid lifters?

Could someone please clarify the different applications of hydraulic and solid lifters?
Off the top of my head, I thought the latter were for performance motors, but how serious a performance level does that mean?
Either way, I gather I need new ones for my imminent engine rebuild....

Ta for any info!

HK'ing of Bris.

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Solid lifters have better valve control at high rpm, they are noisy and require lots of maintenance. Hydraulic lifters are quieter, minimal maintenance but can fail at high rpm. Note: you must use solid cam with solid lifters and hydraulic cam with hydraulic lifters. You can't miss match them as cams are ground differently for each application.

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Bob has pretty much covered it in the post above .Because a solid lifter design can take a lot more punishment it allows cam grinders to put a smaller opening and closing ramp on the cam lobe which creates a lot more velocity thus making more hp. For what you want (street use ?) a hydraulic cam would be the best option.

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Cheers,
John.

Some hydraulic ones for a street car, Kingy.

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She was just a whiskey maker, but I loved her still.

[http://gallery.oldho...|toybox]

for street use you can get some heavy duty hydraulic cams,,i wouldnt bother with solid on the street,,unless you like rattle and adjusting?

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WHAT? no gravy?

...unless you like rattles and adjusting!!!.
That sums it up.
Hydraulic is quite fine for street use,I recon HQ racers use hydraulic...I used hydraulic in the speedway car.
No dramas.

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Q-ball.

"Clay is for racing on,Tar is how you get there!!"
[http://gallery.oldho...|My Shed]
3401

Gettin' set up for some lappin' in Ippy mate?

I'll see ya on Brisbane Street then, Lindsay.

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Cheers, Lindsay.

4305

yeah definitely go hydraulic for a frequently used motor.

solids ideally also need adjustable roller rockers, can get away with 149-186 std rockers if you have an early type head but rollers are best bet.

tech tip - buy a GOOD quality set of lifters like crow - cheap ones have a looser internal tolerance and will bleed down during the day, and clatter until oil pressure builds up. good ones like crow will not do this and will last at least the life of your set of rings.

new cam too, or re-using the old one??

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Cool - hydraulic lifters will be the go, then.

Many fanx for advice!

HK'ing.

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'i'm definately shore that guage wont work with my tuff bango diff and Opal sydcrome box,if it goes though my grill,and I put the breaks on I realize its better with the glimer belt & tunned holly and Ederbrock duel feul webber gaurds, wiht etc primmer.'

When you rev it a bit too much, if the valve springs aren't strong enough the valve lifter can momentarily leave the tip of the cam lobe. This causes unexpected lash in the valve train. A solid lifter doesn't care that much but a hydraulic lifter will suddenly try and take up that gap and so it will then stop the valve from fully closing for a number of cycles. This makes the effects of too much revs seem much worse.

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______________________________________________
[http://gallery.oldho...|me shed...]

The current springs are heavy duty items, and I've only VERY rarely pushed this motor even near 5000rpm.

Maybe the good folk at Repco Engineering, didn't actually use particularly high quality lifters or rings :-(

These are the only parts that have show evidence of premature wear.

HK'ing.

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'i'm definately shore that guage wont work with my tuff bango diff and Opal sydcrome box,if it goes though my grill,and I put the breaks on I realize its better with the glimer belt & tunned holly and Ederbrock duel feul webber gaurds, wiht etc primmer.'

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