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Things you find when you drop your sump

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Hey old holdeners,

I replaced the rear main seal on the HZ today. Found an interesting extra in the sump! That explains why it was only running on lpg. New seal in place and everything back together, Chucked the spare fuel pump on and it starts and runs on both again.

I also added a pic to show how high the engine needed to be jacked up to get the sump off in a HZ. Perhaps that can be added to the holdenpedia page about removing the sump with the engine in the car.

Thanks to the contributors who put together the info there on oil leaks etc.

Cheers
B

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Many Thanks for the info and for your Great Shots.

I'll add the Engine Mount Elevation Shot now.

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T

My Shed

Holdenpaedia, they're the brakes Mate.

Can I ask you what are the Dimensions of your Wood Blocks?

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T

My Shed

Holdenpaedia, they're the brakes Mate.

I can't believe how lucky you were that the fuel pump arm didn't get chewed up into the bottom end !. Buy a lotto ticket I reckon!. Have seen so many laminated arms destroy botttom ends or camshafts .

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Cheers,
John.

it was down in the baffle out of harms way.

Cheers
B

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Greetings T,

One of the very people I was talking about, thanks for your time in collating all the info.

The wood is 42x20mm hardwood, I tried one piece, ie lifting the mounts 20mm but this wasn't enough to allow the sump to clear the flywheel, if you lift by 40mm it is all pretty easy. It also helps to take off the fan belt so that the fan can be easily rotated to avoid hitting the guard which is attached to the top of the radiator.

Cheers
B

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Many thanks for the Dimensions.

I've added the Wood Block Image here ... http://holdenpaedia....

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T

My Shed

Holdenpaedia, they're the brakes Mate.

Added here ... http://holdenpaedia....

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T

My Shed

Holdenpaedia, they're the brakes Mate.

Did you put in new engine mounts?

As that mount looks pretty stuffed :-)

Ian

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How does 1 do the rear main with the crankshaft still in? Was it a rope seal just wondering what you did, tell us you replaced the engine mount. If you did what I've done b4 half the seal I hope it turns out better for you than it did for me, the next weekend I ended up with the motor out upside down and crank out. My uncle used to say if the rear main is shot the motor is shot.
Happy New Year

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most of the time I fix things properly, it ends up taking longer when I dodgie it because I have to do it again anyway.

Lubed the seal with an oil and graphite mixture as suggested in the Ellery manual and it slid straight in. I was told that the rope seals are much more of a challenge. Have to see how it goes, it was pissing out oil before. Worthwhile doing the whole seal I think because there was a little bit of damage to the top half of the seal which I am hoping is the cause of the leak.

Two comments on the state of the engine mount now so I'll replace that on the weekend, the other side looks much less spongy. Thanks guys.

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I had to swap out the original motor due to a piston top problem. This one runs smoothly (when it has enough oil, hehe) so hopefully will continue to work after the surgery. But that is why it's not a rope seal I guess. It is just what I could get at the time.

B

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Does this happen often? I've had an arm come loose on me whilst tuning a car. Just wondering how common this problem could be?

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X

But they are all getting older I guess, fatigue must be starting to become more of a factor. It is not unheard of though by the sounds of the replies.

B

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They tend to be more of an issue when the engine has been modified and subsequently pulling a lot higher revs , one of the reasons a lot of worked engines run an electric pump.

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Cheers,
John.

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