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Progress

Well, rear brakes done, new shocks at th back and the new Tailshaft fitted. Took her for a spin and much improved :-) No longer vibrates at 45-50 mph or when backing off from 60. Still a trace of vibration at speed but this feels more like its coming frm the engine, not the transmission like it was. Back end feels lovely and firm now with new springs and shocks.

Tomorrow will be wiring in the power amp and speaker to run the iPhone from then will be flushing the cooling system and refilling with green coolant (currently running brown sludgy water!). Getting there!!

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What Alternator are you using?

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T

My Shed

Holdenpaedia, they're the brakes Mate.

Not sure T - it's prob the original one from the Red Motor. Why do you ask?

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Dave H - Sydney
[http://gallery.oldho...|My Shed] - 1963 EJ Special - Ti Tree Green

Increased Electrical Load, you need good Wiring and Alternator to match.

The original LC would have been about 35 Amps. If uprated, the Alternator Feed should have been uprated to match.

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T

My Shed

Holdenpaedia, they're the brakes Mate.

The power amp is only a small one. I am going to run another wire from the relay I installed for the dizzy, so the feed to the power amp will be straight from the starter tap. Should be ok you reckon?

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Dave H - Sydney
[http://gallery.oldho...|My Shed] - 1963 EJ Special - Ti Tree Green

I've resurrected lots of Old Holdens with aged Wiring problems as covered in the Dim Lights Page.

It brings everything back to par (bright Lights etc as covered in the Page).

I recently uprated the Alternator Feed, Primary Feed and Ground Strap in my VK. The results were pleasing.

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T

My Shed

Holdenpaedia, they're the brakes Mate.

Thanks for the advice. If I run a meter across the alternator what should it be producing amp wise do you reckon?

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Dave H - Sydney
[http://gallery.oldho...|My Shed] - 1963 EJ Special - Ti Tree Green

The Alternator Output Voltage is usually stamped on it ... http://holdenpaedia....

The Alternator must produce this Voltage no load or full load when the Engine is at or above 1500 RPM. Measure between the B+ Terminal and the Alternator Case.

You then Measure the Battery Voltage at the Battery Terminals under the same conditions. If this is not within 0.5 Volts, the Alternator Feed has excessive drop and should be uprated.

You then Measure the Voltage between the HEI Coil +ve and the Engine Block under the same conditions. If this is not within 0.5 Volts, the Primary Feed has excessive drop and should be uprated.

You then Measure the Headlight Voltage between the Headlight Bulb and the Chassis under the same conditions. If this is not within 0.5 Volts, the Chassis Strap has excessive drop and should be uprated.

Further Alternator info here ... http://holdenpaedia....

Measuring the Alternator Output Current has to be done with an Ammeter in series. The above Voltage tests are preferable to a Current Test.

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T

My Shed

Holdenpaedia, they're the brakes Mate.

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