Thought this may be helpful to anyone converting to the later style internal regulator style Bosch alternator.
T, if it is of any use please feel free to add it to the pedia. It is a retail non copyright document. It's also in my shed. Link below
thanks myeh! that makes things simple to understand!
Holdenpaedia, they're the brakes Mate.
Here ... http://holdenpaedia....
speaking of alternators, I took my ute to a mechanic with the evil smell of boiling battery acid coming into the cab and he said the battery was getting 16 volts at idle and making it boil.He thought the regulator had gone in the alternator. I was wondering if replacing the regulator was a diy job or should a auto electrician do the job? thanks AJ
serenity is everywhere
The Regulator can be part or all of the Problem.
Disconnect the Battery +ve before changing the Regulator.
It is fairly straight forward as long as you're careful. The only tricky part is keeping the brushes retracted fully whilst you manipulate the reg into place. If you don't you can snap off the fragile carbon brushes quite easily. In my 15 years selling these I rejected many hundreds of warranty claims on these regs that were claimed to have been received with factory made broken brushes. Not likely to have happened...
[http://gallery.oldho...|My EH Holden Shed]
I recently upgraded to a VN V8 alternator in my HG. For anyone that is about to do it the plug is the same as an injector plug from a commodore and finding a 2w BA9s globe was a pain as the major places i went to autobarn, supercheap and repco didn't stock it and could only get me a box. I even tried an auto electrician.
For anyone one on the southside of Brisbane I found Cheapa auto spares at Oxenford have them on the shelf.
I just replaced the 35 amp unit on my red motor with a brand new 70 amp Bosch unit.
Identical to the old unit it and just bolted straight up.
The 35 amp was on it's limit with the driving lights on and the thermo fan cuttinhg in.
The Alternator Feed Wire *must* be able to handle 70 Amps. Fit a new Wire as required ... http://holdenpaedia....
and here ... http://holdenpaedia....
There was an article in our club magazine last month about batteries and alternators.
What the article basically said was that older cars are designed to run at 13.2 volts, whereas modern cars are designed to run 15.2(?)volts.
It went on to say that fitting a modern, 15.2V alternator in a car with an older 13.2V battery will shorten the battery's life as the 13.2V battery will be constantly overcharged.
Similarly, putting a moden calcium type 15.2V battery in a car with and older 13.2V alternator will shorten the calcium battery's life because it will constantly be undercharged.
Do you experts agree with this thinking?
myeh, thanks for the wiring diagram.
Old is good.
They may be quoting me.
Essentially match the Alternator (or Generator) to the Battery. Make the Cables capable of carrying the relevant Currents.
The Bosch RE60 reg fitted to many many Australian made Bosch alternators will work happily with older technology batteries as well as many of the later types. Calcium-Calcium batteries definitely work at a higher system voltage so should be avoided in our old Holdens. I guess a simple rule of thumb would be "if the Bosch alternator has the old black square regulator built into the back of it your OK". If it's the newer style "European" type reg you should do some further investigation. An example of this Euro style reg is on the new style universal Bosch alternator made specifically for older Holdens BXH1238A. It's 70 amp output and using the later reg and will work happily with older lead and newer silver antimony style batteries.
Jusy bought a new alternator for the HZ 253. The old one has a B and B+ terminal the new one has another terminal labeled W anyone know what thats for?
Just got an old Bosch Alternator from the wreckers for my 35Year old Tractor.
It has 2 Terminal connections, D+ and a B+ , what does the D+ mean or what's it's use.
Thank you and cheers for your help, Louis
If the Alternator has an Internal Regulator, the D+ isn't used.
Thank you for the quick reply.
Mr. Holdenpaedia, cheers
i have fitted the alternator to an old Fordson tractor. The tractor has no warning light as it is fitted with an ammeter. will it still work?
The smaller Bosch Alternators (35, 40, 55 Amp) will self excite when the revs are high enough (1500 or more). That means they don't need the Light Bulb.
I have never found an 85 Amp Alternator to self excite. They need excitation from a 12 Volt source through a Bulb no brighter than 2 Watts. A Bulb larger than 2 Watts will cause the Regulator to fail.
What happens then when the sense wire is connected to the B+ as I see some comments recommending this.
An example of using the sense wire, is in a truck where the batteries are a long way from the alternator.
Connecting the sense wire to the batteries causes the alternator to output extra voltage to compensate for the voltage drop in the longer cables. That way the batteries get the correct voltage.
In a car the battery is closer to the alternator, so there is less voltage drop because the cables are shorter. Connecting directly to the B+ doesn't make so much difference.
You just negate the ability of the regulator to sense the vehicles system voltage and then compensate with a higher voltage output. Lets say the alternator outputs 13.8 volts. If the sensing wire is connected straight to the B+ terminal the regulator will just happily continue to keep its output voltage at 13.8 volts.If the sense wire is connected to the battery positive terminal it will be looking at the voltage at the battery. Now all the electrical load in the car is connected directly to the battery so this voltage will drop as load increases. The alternator will then see this decrease in voltage and increase it's voltage output to compensate and bring the battery voltage back up..
i just put s straight to positive bolt on alternator works fine
The Last VK Sixes had a rigid Alternator upper mounting bracket which means that, unmodified, they can only take Alternators with a smaller radius for the pinch bolt and lower mount, like the Bosch 55 Amp BXH1236A. The Bosch 70 Amp BXH1238A Alternator won't because the pinch bolt centre is 5mm too far away to fit the upper bracket.
They can still use the same lower bolt, but the upper bolt needs to be M8 x 25mm for the later metric Alternators and 5/16" x 1.25" UNC for the earlier units.
Hello sports fans,
I installed a new VL Bosch 85amp rb30na alternator on my 1991 gq rb30 patrol, it fit with just a pully change and some shim adjustment. It came with a wiring harness to fit to cars originally fitted with a Hitachi alt. So, fired it up and it went up to 15 volts plus, then next time I started it, it wasn't charging at all.
What did I did????
All that I have left to do is everything.
Did the charge light come on at all?
I've never been able to get an 85 Amp Alternator to self excite, so if the charge light doesn't glow they won't work.
Maybe the connector came loose ... ?
All the plugs were seated well. The light never came on. It just climed straight up over 15 volts. It seems that the adaptor wire supplied to plug the bosch into the Haitchi plug has the wires reversed. Is it possible the reg got a false low reading from the light circut and flowed full voltage to accomidate?
Ive unreversed wires but still nothing, still no light. The extra volts must have hurt something. I got a new reg today, I will try that now.
I'd say that when the regulator charge connection was connected directly to the battery, the regulator was blown.
The sense wire connected to the charge light had no effect.
The Bosch regulator charge connection can only support a 2 watt lightbulb, so a dead short would blow the Bosch regulator.
Ok. New reg is in and working. Charge light is now working on start up. I think it may be greater than 2w, will a 3 - 5 watt globe only wreck the light circuit or the whole shebang? I couldnt find a 2w 10mm bulb anywhere. Jaycar have led ones but they have no watt marked on them, I got a couple anyway.
if light glows -not charging
I need help wire it up
The info you need is here http://www.patrol4x4...
I got that after searching google for 'L28 ALternator wiring'
It should be straight forward, both the nissan and holden alternators use a main power wire, a voltage sense wire and a warning light wire. They are fattest to thinest in that order, as far as I know.
Let us know how you go.
Hi, I hope you can give me some info.
My alternator look exactly the same as the 1 in your image. The brushes became too short so I just replaced them and foolish me tried to put the reg back in without disconnecting the battery wire so a big spark. After doing it the right way the alternator did not charge. The warning light stays on. The logic was that I've blown the reg. Bought a new 1, very expansive and according to the Bosch agents it was the last 1 obtainable in South Africa. This time I did the right thing, taking the alternator out completely and put it back with the new "piece of gold". Still no charging, so I thought the diodes were gone and disassembled the alt completely, disconnecting the coils from the diodes and all 8 diodes tested ok. Testing the field coils seems ok too. There are 4 wires from the field coils so I assume its a 3 coil star configuration with about 0.7 Ohm between any 2 wires.
I'll appreciate any commends.
Make sure you plugged the Charge Light Wire onto the correct connector.
The one in the picture is labelled I and S.
I is Indicator Light.
S is Sense. Connect this to battery +ve
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