hj 202 p-plate performance

a cam upgrade dosent mean you have to run roller rockers,youll do just aswell with the stock ones on quite a hotter cam,what diff ratio do you have now?you can use a lower ratio and get better accelleration but run more rpm in top gear on the highway and use more fuel overall.

Forget converting to v8, do up the 6 and have fun. Buy a v8 car next. Get a blue 202 head,12port and get it ported out by a good engine man. Get a 30/70 cam, solid lifters and she will hum. 4 speed will bolt straight in. Go up to a 3.36 diff.
If you want to go big, fit up a set of triple strombergs or even better, webers!! Otherwise, go for a 2 barrel weber. Have fun...

i had a hj ute on my red p's, seriously dont bother mate, cruise it then once on fulls put in a v8.. start buying the parts to build v8! u got alot of money to spend if u wanna do it right..

like dave has said a bigger cam need not mean roller rockers. just means you have to stick to a hydraulic cam.

aussie 4 speed in place of 3 speed you only need to change the gearbox and then find a shifter for it. all other stuff is the same. PROVIDED ITS A 6 CYLINDER BOX of course.

bear in mind a 1365kg hq race car is capable of low 16's down the quarter mile with a mild cam .400" lift, 265 degrees duration (using stock rockers) basic head (throat and seat) work and NO PORTING, stock size 1bbl carburettor, 3.55 open diff and a 3 speed gearbox. some of their specs can be improved for street driving too, so dont think you have to go crazy to get some decent performance out of a h series 6 cylinder.

Hi 75Ute, not sure if you have a 3 speed auto or manual, but if it's auto to swap from a truamatic to an M20 (Aussie 4 speed) is a relatively easy conversion, you just have to source all the bits.

If it's a 3 speed manual then that's even easier, but don't destroy or dismantle the steering column as they are getting rare as well.

The parts that are the same from the auto & the manual are the tail shaft, speedometer cable (including the driven gear), cross member, rear engine/gearbox mount, starter motor and possibly the lower inspection cover, depending on what car the M20 came out of.

You will need the following parts to complete your conversion;

- 1 x steel plate that fits between the block and the bellhousing

- 1 x flywheel, make sure it has been ground

- 6 x flywheel bolts, these are longer than the auto drive plate

- 1 x clutch kit with the correct release bearing to suit the type of bellhousing

- 4 x bolts and spring washers that attach the pressure plate to the flywheel

- 1 x bellhousing with 1 x clutch fork, 1 x pivot ball, 1 x spring clip to hold the fork onto the ball, (the blue motor bellhousing [VC, VH & WB] was a better design as the cable pulled the clutch fork toward the front of the vehicle and this design was used right through to the VS Commodore and possibly later)

- 1 x clutch cover (inspection plate)

- 1 x clutch cable, or clutch mechanism, to suit bellhousing

- 1 x clutch fork dust cover (blue motors were plastic, red motors were steel plate with a spring that pushed it against the clutch fork opening and slid back & forth with the fork

- 1 x brake pedal (the manual brake pedal is narrower)

- 1 x clutch pedal with spring clip to hold the cable on to the pivot (if you source a blue motor bellhousing you can use the WB pedals and buy a WB cable off the shelf if it ever breaks)

- 1 x M20 gearbox with gear knob, gearshift linkages as well as the reverse light switch (the VK 4 speed is not an M20 and is very weak, if you decide to use the Commodore 5 speed out of the VH or VK you will need to modify, shorten and balance your existing tail shaft as the yoke is different, as well as try to find a yoke)

- 1 x reverse light wiring harness

- 1 x wire that joins the 2 terminals together for the neutral safety start switch that prevents the auto starting in gear. this connector is usually located at the base of the steering column inside the cab and the wires from memory were purple. If these 2 wires aren't connected there will be no power to the starter motor so this could be useful for a basic kill switch.

- 1 x gear lever boot retaining plate

- 1 x upper gear lever boot

- 1 x lower gear lever boot (seals the gear linkages from the road)

- 1 x carefully located hole cut out in the floor to allow for the gear shift (the gear lever boot retaining plate is an ideal template once you work out the correct position

- correct quantity of oil

- Gregory's workshop manual or someone that has done this conversion previously.

Hope this helps,

philfikids

Thanks everyone for all the help, what does everyone think about a supra 5 speed, forgot to mention it is a manual 3 speed at the moment, what cam do you suggest as i would like a lumpy cam but not too silly as its only road use, Is a m20 m21 going to suit better? (davehqprem- i believe at the moment i have a 3.55 ratio? its a original diff for 202 3 speed) is 3.36 the way to go?

^^^^ sorry that was my reply apparently i wasnt logged in :s

Once you have a little more power, u can up the ratio. 336 cruises at 2400 on14,s while the 355 is about 2650? ( i think). Makes foe nicer hwy car yet have some more poke as well. Clive cams in melb (google him) will talk you through a good grind once you tell him what you want out of the engine and what else u are doing to it. I had him do one for my 307 that is just right. Cams and splutters a bit but pulls hard from 2300 to 6.

what the hell is that response?,you have a 307 for a start and after good advice your engine splutters?the rpm drivel your on about means nothing to a holden 202 owner,i wish rusty would make this a member only forum?