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bad vibes

Got a shoking vibration which cuts in at 80 km and goes away about 105km. Tyres r balanced, unis r good, cant figure it out??

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Engine mount/s; gearbox mount??

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Growing old is unavoidable, growing up is optional ;)

[http://gallery.oldho...|Shed of Wheel Nut]
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Have you investigated tailshaft? Run into any gutters recently?

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I've had loose Stabiliser Bar Rubbers do this. Further info here ... http://holdenpaedia....

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T

My Shed

Holdenpaedia, they're the brakes Mate.

As Wheelnut said, engine mounts, you need genuine Holden if you can buy them, do not use nolathene etc, they are too hard. Also look at unis, the quality, and, not fitted correctly, and it does not matter if they were fitted by so called professionals, the so called professionals fitted mine incorrectly.

There is a post on here not too long back a HQ ? Monaro with new 9" fitted aquired a vibration, there were a lot of replys and the owner eventually came back to say engine mounts were the problem.

It's in posts by Vav but you will need to sign in to look.

http://oldholden.com...

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Could it be a worn tie rod end or a loose front wheel bearing?
I've had both cause vibrations at the speed you've mentioned.
David

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Old is good.

I had similar problems with my eh, took the shaft into hardy spicer to be balanced. They also advised that uni joints that wernt that old were not in the best shape so also had them replaced. The car drives like new now. Shaft balancing only cost around $100, heavy duty uni joints about $35 each. I'd replaced engine and gear box mounts prior to this work with no difference. All other drive line components had been changed prior to me buying the car.

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Steve

[http://gallery.oldho...|My Shed]
Sloth Engineering, I'll do it... When I get around to it.

i've got the same problem in my hz tonner mate. Ive replaced the engine mounts, gear box mounts, replaced the uni's and had the tailshaft balanced. Next step is replace all the front end bushes and rubbers, ill have to get it sooner or later:)

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loud pipes save lives

If you replaced the engine mounts with aftermarket rubber, you can still have the problem, it was not until I fitted genuine Holden mounts from the Holden dealer that I got rid of the problem once and foreall.

The Repco rubber mounts did not change things.

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coming through your steering column as a up and down vibration or through your wheel as a wobble ?

column vibration can be box , shaft or rear tyres, even balanced tyres, they go out of round as the get old.

try swapping front to rear if no mechanical defects found.

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Sounds exactly the problem I had on my Triton ute. Started at about 80K, would vibrate/shake till about 105 (if I was game to go that fast). I put new tyres on it, and it drives bewdifly now..

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........๐“ฃ๐“ฒ๐“ถ.

โœ„--------------------------------------------------------

-_--_--_ _______._
_--_-_ -/___+__|__\__
.,.,.,,.,|_O ________O_|

more background. the car was pulled down and stripped and rebuilt over 4 years so most of the stuff discussed above has been done. There was no vibration before teardown.
the motor is balanced and runs smoothly, the g box was recoed and seems good,
front end recoed, motor mounts are the same ones, gbox mount was replaced previous to teardown.
tyres are new and swapping them around and using different wheels hasnt made a difference.

tailshaft will be balanced next but nothing has happened to it while in storage and both unis are new. cant see the diff failing while sitting around?

so the comments about engine mounts have me thinking about a "touch point vibe" so i will look carefully at the extractors etc for a contact(although it is speed related not engine revs). the gbox recoe could have done something to the final shaft? (I doubt it.)

Keep throwing ideas and experiences as its bound to be something simple i havent thought of yet! thanks for all the comments

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"the g box was recoed and seems good"

Make sure the Bellhousing Bolts are tight and haven't bottomed in their threads. They may be too long.

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T

My Shed

Holdenpaedia, they're the brakes Mate.

Just another thought but probably not the cause. Have you done anything to the engine tuning? Only other thoughts are harmonic balancer or fly wheel balancing.

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Steve

[http://gallery.oldho...|My Shed]
Sloth Engineering, I'll do it... When I get around to it.

Sitting around for 4 years might have made the engine/box mounts go hard, therefore less absorbent...therefore vibrate......or.....you could have a dildo under the passenger seat?

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Cheers,

Emu

O.H.T.C. original member

Under the seat!!

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A friend had the same problem with his HQ one tonner.
He checked all the obvious things (mentioned by others above) then when out of ideas he swapped wheels then components one by one including the diff.
It ended up being his tailshaft and once replaced, he has no issues.

The original tailshaft and uni joints (new) will pass anyone's visual inspection.

TROLL

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I had this problem with a 202 and Trimatic. Somehow the bellhousing wasn't quite fitted correctly after fitting a new flexplate. Gearbox was incorrectly aligned, just a touch. The vibration in my case was the new flex plate being minutely ground down on one side as it spun.

I was glad when this was diagnosed and fixed!

On the other hand I always thought it was the tailshaft until it was properly diagnosed.

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Long time looker, first time owner.
(1979 HZ)

My experience was similar.

The Trimatic place used the longer Blue Six Bellhousing Bolts instead of Red Bellhousing Bolts on a Red Bellhousing.

The Blue Six Bellhousing Bolts bottomed out in the Thread leaving the Bellhousing loose which resulted in heavy vibration.

V8 Trimatic Bellhousings are all the same so no problem.

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T

My Shed

Holdenpaedia, they're the brakes Mate.

I've got a 9" in my monaro which had the the axles and drums redrilled for ht wheel studs. The guy the did took the balance weights off the drums. This caused the same vibration your talking about. I put he drum on a wheel balancer just to see and they were 80 grams out. New weights and no virbration.

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Hi All,
HELP! I have a bizarre vibration through what appears to be the drive line of my Origial Ej sedan. It vibrates at almost all speeds until you push the clutch in at which stage it dissapears? If you free rev it with the clutch in or out there is NO vibration? This has only occured since replacing the clutch (with a larger diameter one) due to the original not being available of the shelf. I had the flywheel replaced with a good second hand one and machined as the original couldnt be machined at all due to distortion. I have tried another tailshaft out of a perfectly running car, replaced spigot bush, and had it to two different mechanics at which stage the box has been out again. Could this be related to the fact that the larger clutch is heavier?? If so wouldnt it vibrate on a free rev?
Any help would be appreciated. Wazza.

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"It vibrates at almost all speeds until you push the clutch in at which stage it dissapears?"

Both the Clutch Plate and Input Shaft stop turning when the Clutch is pushed in so the problem is related to the rotation of the Clutch Plate at least.

That makes it sound like the Spigot Bush is the wrong Diameter or there is a fault in the Clutch Pate itself, like the Clutch Plate is not round.

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T

My Shed

Holdenpaedia, they're the brakes Mate.

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