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nulon oil

has anyone tried this stuff

i did a full oil change the other day, made a noticeable difference.

according to prophecy, its supposed to be something like 36% less friction, which makes it more economical and cooler.

i used the high kilometres stuff.

made my day i must say.

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it would be really interesting to see a comparison of fuel consumption between oils.

personally i dont think it matters really.. i dont buy the dirt cheap oil, but the GTX2 i use in the commodore goes alright.. the shell stuff i put in 4000K ago is already filthy dirty .. dont know why i wont use it again tho

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Hi Ash,

IIRC, Shell Helix oil is a high detergent action oil.

It probably cleaned out a lot of the build up inside your motor.

The problem with using it in an old motor is, once the sludge and crap is flushed out, your bearing clearances, etc are much bigger than they were before the oil did its job MAYBE making a rebuild necessary sooner rather than later.

This isn't anywhere near so much of an issue in a motor in good condition.

Cheers...Dave

"Search more, Post less"

>E-mail Me
Qute's Shed

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Cheers...Dave

"Search more, Post less"

>E-mail Me
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i didnt see anything on the bottle about it. i thought only more expensive shell oils would have the cleaner in it.

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my mate had just put some nulon additive in his hq race car. he said the idle came up noticably and he had to lower the idle speed. unless a dyno tune is done on the same day, its hard to confirm actual power increases, but a raise in idle speed sure indicates better efficiency somewhere.

i do like nulons coolant so ill have to try out their oil products sometime.

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Interesting, I am a bit skeptical about Nulon. If this oil proves to be good perhaps I will try it over GTX2 which always comes out of my HZ after 5000ks nice and gold :)

With the Nulon additive, what additive was put in? I was considering an E30/E20 application but decided against it as I heard it could block oil filters and cause more harm than good?

Shed

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A quick squizz at the Nulon site, suggests that their engine oil products don't contain the controversial, oft-misunderstood and over-hyped PTFE additive.

I use their gearbox treatment (PTFE included) in my banjo and Supra box. Instant and significant improvement in noise and shift quality. (Banjo still makes annoying folk/country plinky-plunk noise though. Ha! Sorry.)

In mid-to-late 90's I used Castrol GTX and Nulon E10 oil treatment (PTFE inc) in a very tired red 202. The zorst pipe soon changed from dark grey or black, to light grey, and used a bit less oil. (I didn't test for fuel consumption improvement though.)

I won't use any brand of oil additive (especially with PTFE !!) in my current motor in near new condition.
I only use PM brand oil now. VERY, VERY long life due to better base oil stocks and far less additives.
5000 km filter change as usual though.

HKing of Oils-aint-oils.

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'i'm definately shore that guage wont work with my tuff bango diff and Opal sydcrome box,if it goes though my grill,and I put the breaks on I realize its better with the glimer belt & tunned holly and Ederbrock duel feul webber gaurds, wiht etc primmer.'

You guys got it easy. In the tropics, oils aint oils.
We tried Castrol GTX2 in the stroker in the torana, much to my disagreement. Sure enough, 100 kays later, it was back in the bottle. High HP engine and Darwin heat made the oil as thin as tranny fluid :-P
In that engine, we now use Penrite HPR40.
In my commodore, i use Pentrite HPR30, as i have used for many years now.
I used to run both GTX2 and shell oils, but i had a 253 VH commodore i couldn't keep cool. I did everything, new radiator, new exhaust, the list, you name it. The last thing i did was change to Pentrite HPR30. Problem solved :-)
Where i am, the thicker oils of Pentrite work for me.
If i have to use addatives, i use Nulon when i can.
>Trenton's Email

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Thanks mate for that information. My oil pressure gets very low when engine hot and my engine gets very hot quick in traffic and I am using GTX2. How much is Pentrite HPR30 and is it suitable for LPG?

Shed

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penrite actually make an lpg oil, its what i run in my statesman. a little thicker than most oils, as seems to be penrites trademark, it is 20w60.

they also make a thinner version if required. most real parts shops (not supercrap) will sell penrite.

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The 20W isn't changed from when the car is cold in castrol GTX2 but the 60W is obviously thicker. Will this raise my oil pressure? Also is the oil going to circle alright with such a high weight? I'll give Penrite a try next time. I mean my Kingswood did 400,000ks on GTX2 so it can't be all that bad, perhaps I can do another 600,000 with Penrite :)

Shed

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The wider the range in viscosity ratings, the quicker the oil breaks down because of the different additives used in the oil,,
'W' does not refer to weight, but represents the winter rating of the oil,,,,
Cheers

john
Silence is Non Committal
MY SHED

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Cheers
John
:o)

Dislike me for who I am you may, like me for whom I'm not, you never will...
MY SHED

and bear in mind that even 2 oils with the same ratings can have different oil pressure readings in your engine. this is where the quality comes in.

penrite i have found always shows high pressure even in the lighter grades, which may be what you want sometimes - but not always. example, i never have used penrite in any of my race engines. but in my tow car i do, as i like the extra pressure when i sit on 110km/h towing 4+ tonnes with a 250,000km engine.

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Nulon E30 long term engine treatment is a PTFE (TEFLON) additive. The paticle size(microns)are so small(you will only see them under a microscope) they will not block oil filters or oil passages. These teflon paticles bond themselves to any moving parts in the motor through heating & pressure (normal operating conditions). I have a 1991 V6 Commodore that I bought new and have been running E30 from 60,000 kms, the car has now done 490,000kms and still runs like new, uses no oil between services. I use Nulon "road & track" fully synthetic 15w-50w engine oil.
Conclusion: They do work.

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Hrmz it is great to hear this, you make me want to put in some additives :)

Do you thrash the car? or are you light on the pedal?

Shed

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Hi Shed,

The word "thrash" is a many and varied word, when using it to describe ones driving!

I have a number of years ago (under "controlled" conditions) driven the car at max speed for long distances in extreme heat, with the air-conditioner running. Lets just say that 50% of its initial kms were pretty hard! The balance to now, being more "normal".

In conclusion lets just say, there isn't a "lawn bowling hat" on the back window!

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I have run Nulon E30 for years, in old style engines and now in a 2004 V6 camry, I have never had any of the issues that some state will happen, and I have never had to rebuild an engine due to wear or misfortune. I have bought cars with noisy lifters, after changing the oil and filter taking for a long run the lifter noises do not abate. I then would do another oil and filter change and add E30 the lifter noises disappear and never come back. I swear by it and will always use it.

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I've never used any additives its a wonder any of my cars ever ran.
My current Toyota is coming up to 300k 150k by me never put anything in it, it doesn't use any oil between services. You think some magic additive will stop the boss's Colorado from needing to be topped up between services?

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Get up that ladder grandpa your only 66.

That is a common fault with the Colorado. They don't know why they use oil and can't seem to fix it.

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Who ever lifts the bonnet on a company car when builders thru to salesreps ect drove hqs that were owned and maintained by the company they never needed to do anything apart from take it to the mechanic on service day. Lets say every time I see the boss he pulls the dipstick and goes off his head at me because its low

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Get up that ladder grandpa your only 66.

funny you should say that "hz tonner 308 and Quick 64"
As I work in the gas pipeline industry, we have around 2-300 duel cab 4x4 and the Colorado's seem to be in the workshop more then out on site. One problem there haveing is were out in the NT and the dust is just killing the engine, the guys out there blow the air cleaner, and the snorkel every day but its just chocks them up.The engine use a more oil then diesel so the fitter jokes and tells us. But as he saids it keeps him in a job and laughs,
The company is slowly replacing the Colorado and the Isuzu 4x4. Last year I had one and couldn't wait to get my new V8 Toyota Cruiser, It never uses oil and i tow a mini Grit blasting machine, all day every day, it runs all day as it never gets turned off (for the air con) If i was to do that in Colorado or Isuzu, id have get out and push it, the last project we were up on the Darling Down, SW QLD. Now were in the NT, yea not going to happen.

As i always say
Stay safe all and have a safe day

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"just my 2cents worth"

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trippled75@yahoo.com.au
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Yeah I here you mate, recently we bought a dual cab d max. V8 Landcruiser was out of our budget. Hilux towing capacity was only 3 tonne in auto due to trans cooler too small so they derated towing capacity. Amarock do camshafts at 160k and Ford no go zone. I have a Ranger for work and the gearbox didn't last till first service plus injectors stick open and engine self destruct. And every Nissan I see smokes like a chimney. And Colorado uses oil. So that is why we chose the D Max. But we don't go where you do. At the end of the day, company cars go further with no oil, do longer burnouts and use more fuel no matter what make they are.

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