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VS Commodore Cooling issues, Is this normal?

Hi guys,

Ok hears my prob. We have just purchased a Second hand VS commodore wagon. Upon checking the car over it looked clean and tidy with No signs of Mechanical problems.

Tho we have found out that the temp (water) seems to climb if the car is left to idle or sit still for too long. Steer out into the open or put her into A steady state of speed and the Temp drops back to a moderate state!

I can see no signs of fluid loss, All hoses are New. And the Radiator seems clean and leak free. The over flow res also dosen't seem to over fill, So it has me asking is this a Trait that the Later Commodores have?

My only thoughts are the Thermo fan is faulty as I havent heard it operating, Are they thAT silent?

Thanks for your help in advance.

Dan

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Simple thermo fan, pick one up for bout 20 bux and whack it in. Should definitly hear it come on, and im pretty sure if u put the aircon on it should come on straight away. Either way you should hear or see it when it heats up.

Cheers Tom
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Cheers Tom

your wrong its a temperature gauge sender they cost $13

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They have a two stage cooling speed, as above you would hear it with the aircon on, my Stato runs at a quarter when driving, idling in traffic it will rise to about two thirds before the fan kicks in,,,,
Cheers

john
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Cheers
John
:o)

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My VS goooons fan kicks in at 2/3 temp when idling. I put it down to crap engineering.

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Emu

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i put that down to crap knowledge a commodore should run under half if the fan dosent kick in before half your temp sensor located under your thermostat is coroded or faulty replace and should be fine

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Two thirds before you see the fan kick in, Damn! That is hot. I can smell the water at halve.
So I'll check the Fan with AC on tomorrow and get the verdict.

Thanks guys.

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Normal operating temps for just about all cars is between 1/4 and 3/4,, above 3/4 and you are hot, below 1/4 and you are over cooling,,,,
Cheers

john
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Cheers
John
:o)

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if the a/c is on and the fan works then it might be the same a my VS and it was the thermo fan switch sender, mine was cutting in too late, the switch sender is located behind the alternator, replace this and you'll have no problems

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Geez, Two thirds before the Fan kicks in seems like a retarded switch-on point!
So I'll have to get out there with the AC on and see what the verdict is. I definatly haven't heard it as yet. And I do know there pretty load on other models.

Thanks guys.

Dan

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if your vs commodore is going above half in traffic and only cools down if you have clean air.

it will most proberly be your (Low Speed Fan Relay Switch) which you can find in your fuse box just go to a dealer and ask them if they have a low speed fan switch and this should fix the problem.

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Have to agree with the guys above. The fact that its getting hot whilst idling, but cool whilst driving says it all.

When your driving, your still getting the cool air to the Engine and Radiator, whereas you aren't whilst standing still.

Check out the wiring, fuses etc and change the fan if needed.

Snype

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Keep Australia Green, Root a Frog

Simple, why did you buy a commodore?

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this is a holden forum you [Naughty Pottyword]ing waste of space. why wouldnt you buy a commodore?? they are a great car. Flog.

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Have to agree with the guys above, if it not that

One of the biggest problem that commodores have when it come to overheating, is the Water pump. the reason for this is, people usually don't replace them when they replace their hoses or radiator and the fins on the impeller corrode away, due to this there is not the correct water flow to be able to cool it down enough, but once you are on the open road the wind pressure forced through your radiator is enough to cool the water down to the right temperature

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I can't remember if the VS still had the same set up as the VR, if it has, it may just need bleeding.
The VR has a bleed screw at the top of the housing on the engine, where the top radiator hose comes to. If you top up your water or coolant, and don't bleed the air bubbles out, it can do some weird s**t.
If you have the bleed screw, top up you r radiator, If it's been running - be carefull when taking the radiator cap off, and if it has been running, make sure you keep the engine running, while you top up the radiator, that way you don't have a heap of cold water / coolant sitting in one spot on hot engine parts, can cause warping or cracking.
When you have topped up your radiator, re-fit the radiator cap, and while the engine is running, loosen the bleed screw, till you see small bubbles and water, keep repeating this step, till you only have water coming from the bleed screw, and no air bubbles. You will need the engine to reach normal operating temperature, to make sure the thermostat is open.
Make sure your over flow bottle is up to it's max. level, and if it was an air bleed problem, all should be sweet.

Cheers
Bruno

PS. The VR thermo kicks in at just over 1/4 on the temp gauge, so 2/3 does seem pretty high. As the others have mentioned, your fan should come on instantly, with your air con. Try driving with your air con on for a bit, if it doesn't get hot, then it is probably the sender. Make sure the fan comes on with the a/c on, before trying to go for a drive though :-)

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bleeding the radiator that way dont work as you will get an air lock......easier way is to cut bottom of 2lt bottle upend to radiator,while engine is off and cool,fill bottle and open bleed screw until water flows through....

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hey guys got a prob i've got a vs commodore andi got new radiator put in not long ago and i change the thermostat myself today, after i was done i took it for a drive and it took off smooth but when i slowed down and had to pick up speed again it was pretty rough and eventually smoothed out, it wasn't doing this before as it was a very smooth car to drive????

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1.Make sure there's Coolent in radiator! 2.buy new themostat that opens earlyer. 3.buy new thermofan or fans.
Every vs and older has that problem even mine but It only if just in park, because when u drive there's cool air running though to help keep it cool.That's all I can say Hope that answers your question.

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My car fan is not working I have to short out the switch to get it to work, how do I do this.....

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My car fan is not working I have to short out the switch to get it to work, how do I do this.....

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what way does the fan blow forwads to the rad or towards the motor

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Hi all,
I have a VS Commodore and i have a simmilar problem to most of you. When i am driving down low speed main roads (40 to 60kmh) for more than 5 or 10 minutes the thermostat creeps up rather quickly. The thermo fan seems to not kick in untill im sitting on the road side with a car that has over heated to the point that it cant run. I brought the car in april (this occured about 2 to 3 months ago) i asumed that the temp raising at the trafic lights is normal.

If anyone can help me that would be great.
Thanks

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HI all, i have the same problem with overheating after driving, put into park-neutral or just in drive with foot on brake it goes to the red line but once i fut to the floor it cools down, thermostat is brand new waterpump is new coolant system flushed fan working not sure what it could be ill ask into work and see what the boys say but if you noe whats up feel free to post but if not ill get back to yas, vr heating probs arnt much dif to the VN-VP or VS they all round the same components jsut more elecs, will post the causes when i find out ppls l8r.. ps i work at one of the holden dealerships so try to get the specs for cooling systems aswell.

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I have found that my VS will overheat if the radiator cap is on the wrong way around. The writing needs to face you. If I turn the cap around the car overheats very quickly.

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the main problems with the VN-VP-VR-VS with overheating are as follows,
air in cooling system is the main one that comes into workshops,
thermostat not opening,
raidiator or cooling system blocked,
leaking sumwhere wich would come in with #1,
fan not kicking in at idle/inpark-drive,
or the airflow when u drive isnt able to enter the engine bay.
they are the main source of overheating problems with these models,
once u have chacked all these then it gets worse, get back to this
wall when u have tried it all or figured it out.

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Hi There

I read all your posts about the temperature issues on your VS commodores

I have 2 VS Commodores, one is 2 months older than the other one,
One the temp does not go above 1/4 in traffic or when at idel, works great, never had a problem

The other one is another story, pain in the arse actually
Temp gets very hot, while driving runs at about 1/2, stop at the traffic light and you watch it climb to 3/4, and you pray to god that the light goes green before the car blows up, or if you idel or try and find a car park in your local supermarket, boy the temp, climbes,

So i took it to the radiator place, had it flushed the raditor and engine, replace the thermostat, still have the problem, so got told to change the sender sensor under the thermostat cover, so i did, cost me 15.00, bloody thing didnt work, then i decided to take it to a Holden Dealer, wosrt thing i ever did, took it there 2 weeks ago, still havent got the car back, they have no f@#$%^ idea
They told me that the sendor unit was wrong, they sold it to me, then they told me that the water pump needed replacing, so they tried that, then found out nothing wrong with my water pump, so put it back on, then they decided it was the radiotor, even thought I had it professionally flushed, so they decided to replace the radiatior, still have the problem, they they decided that the ECU was faulty, so thats when i thought that this was going to cost an arm and a leg, so I asked them, how much my bill was so far, and I almost died, my bill includeing the new computer but not installing it, was now $3000.00,and after all this, they still have my car and the problem is still there,

The moral of the story.....dont do it, I cant beleive that I took it in to a specialised Holden dealer and they cant work it out, and I have the bill that by the way is now $3500.00 and the same problem i started with and no car, cause I cant get my car back, the worst problem is taht I bought the car new and have complained from day 1 about this matter, and 15 years later, still cant get it fixed, anyone have any bright ideas?

Im at a loss what to do, any ideas would be great

my email address is bmp1967@hotmail.com
I would love to hear if anyone has any ideas whatso ever

Thanks

Lost VS Commodore owner

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Body control unit possibly not telling Ecu when to turn the fan on

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Ok, holdens have been renowned for faulty gauges/Componantry when it comes to cooling. Ive fixed several cars now by installing an led gauge, and an aftermarket sensor that is cut into the top radiator hose.then install a toggle rocker switch and all done. Just means you have to watch your gauge and switch it manually. Run your switch wiring straight off the fan harness through a inline fuse. Costs under $100 and done in 12 hrs

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I just got a 1995 berlina vs v6 ,solved the water problems by , buying a new radiator cap from a dealer . the right pressure rating.
Runs like new , only 170000 kls

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Does your left foot get warm while driving distances? When we sold our VR wagon, the bloke who bought it told us that the control unit was staying slightly open which he fixed himself, but I don't know how?

Maybe it's the same, just an adjustment on the tap cable or switching vent.

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30 years without a right to drive.
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I discovered on my VS Statesman that the heater matrix (radiator) is hot all the time when the motor is run. Hot air should only come out when the heater controls are set to hot. Around the matrix is insulation which deteriorates over time and this is where the hot air is coming from. You will need to remove the centre console to get at it and use a heat resistant silicon or similar to seal it up, mine was only on the drivers side.

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You cannot simply determine that your car is getting hot by saying "it goes up to three quarters". This is a relative measurement and a guide to the driver only. Depending on the sender unit you have two thirds on the guage could be only 80 degrees in reality. The only way to properly measure the temperatures is to place a calibrated temp guage into the system or obtain the data from the ecu which uses a seperate temp sensor. You may simply have a sensitive guage or sender that is leading you to believe the car is getting hot when in reality it is fine. You have owned the car since new with this problem and it's still running? Can't be getting too hot if that's the case.

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i know its 2015 however you are the only one here that came any where close to the solution, the solution is the temperature gauge sender they cost $13 to replace and is a 5 minute job, make sure you get the right sender though as there are different senders for the V6 they may look the same engines but they are not, my proffesion Automotive technician, i work on cars all the time day in day out and i know my diagnostics I KNOW MY [Naughty Pottyword] in other words

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i have a vr commodore and it has just started getting hot while at lighs but when u start going temp goes back down btw it doesnt do this every day some days its fine.air con is never turned off so fan should be on all the time right?as i just checked and the fan stays on for like 2 min then cuts out for 2 min then starts back up again and just keeps starting and stoping is this normal?

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Sounds like it may just be the fan causing you grief. If you have the air-con on all the time, the fan should run constantly.

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Growing old is unavoidable, growing up is optional ;)

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I have the heating problem and it seems the fan has 2 speeds. Under normal driving I can see the fan come on at about 1/4 on the temp. gauge by a sudden drop int the temperature and it cycles up and down around that point. When sitting for extended periods or when working it hard, the temp. gets to about 2/3 then I see it suddenly drop when the fan goes to high speed. It then cycles between about 1/2 and 2/3 as the fan cuts in and out. It doesn't seem to loose any coolant and the difference between these points is supposed to be only a couple of degrees. The owners manual in the glove box says that this is normal and only worry if it gets to the red for more than 30 seconds.
I tried changing the temperature sensor for a newer one but then it would overheat so I put the old one back in. The holden dealer said that there has been several revisions of the sensor to address the problem (unsuccessfully it seems). If yours overheats, maybe try locating an older sensor from a wreckers and fit that.
I will try the bleeding trick and let you know if that works for me. Thanks everyone for sharing.

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my vx car gets to normal temp when i first start it in the morning btw 1/4 and 1/2 then rises all the way to hot then after 10 seconds quickly returns to normal and is ok for rest of the day the fans seem to be working ok and have bleed system

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Hey my vs has the same prob as "vs heating promlem" dude.if i go somewhere quickly it stays on cold. but once it starts heating up it gets hot fast, once it hits hot it stays there for a few seconds and then drops back to half. this is only a recent prob for me. I have flushed the radiator, put a thermostat in (the car will run without one but heater won't work, good way to see if its your thermostat). Replaced the thermo fan and the fuse and its still misbehaving. Always bleed your thermostat screw!! i'm pretty sure its the sender or sensor so i'll drive with that unplugged n let ya's know how i go. But if it's one of those that is faulty it'll send the wrong temp to the ecu and your thermo/s wont kick in when they should. it doesn't hurt to leave the sensor unplugged, your thermo/s should kick in almost straight away when unplugged but your engine light will come on. i'll probably just leave mine unplugged lol i've had enough for a couple days!!

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Just bought the car.. 5 minutes after starting the temp goes up quickly.. But once ur on the highway the temp goes down and when the aircon is on the temp goes down.. Sit at lights and temp will get to 3/4... What can be wrong with it?

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Sounds like your fans (not the aircon one, the other 2)or the relay that powers them or the temp sensor or the wiring to the fans are knackered.

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Cheers...Dave

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Hi,
i've got a slightly different issue with my radiator. I had it running for about 2 hours, not driving, and the radiator did not even heat up. Touched it and it was cold. Tried running the heater and nothing. The temp gauge only moved slightly from the cold positionn once I took it for a drive to heat up. Again still cold. Heater is blowing warm air when on the highest setting, which normally should be hot. When you drive it for some distance, the temp gauge moves to 1/4 (just above the C sign)and no further. The only time it went past half was when it had a crack, which was fixed and now nothing. Radiator has been flushed, new coolant and bleed. Nothing in the overfill bottle either. Can anyone suggest if this could be a thermo issue or the actual radiator is stuffed and needs to be replaced? Any help at all would be great.
Thanks,

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Does it have a working thermostat in it?

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i have a 1999 supercharged holden statesmen, the tempreture keeps rising and the water in the water tank is bubbling , i was wondering if anyone could help with what it is.

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i have a 1999 holden statesmen, and the tempreture keeps rising and the water in the water tank is bubbling, just wondering if anyone had an idea what could be the problem.

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Possible Inlet Manifold Leaking, or Head Gasket(s) leaking.

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T

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Hey all,

I've had my VS about two years now and I've had the same problem since I've had it. It sits at about 1/2 for the first 15 minutes driving around town and then it goes right up to about 3/4, as soon as you're moving again it's back down to just above half. I've spent a lot of time trying to fix it myself and when I was stumped I spent a lot of money trying to get it fixed. Long story short all up I've replaced thermo fan, relays, sensor, sender, I've flushed it several times it's got a new thermostat and radiator cap and I've recently taken it to the electrician. I also thought the thermos weren't kicking in when they should be but they tested it and said they are kicking in at the correct temperature and that the gauge is just wrong. I told them to fix the gauge so they replaced the sender (which I had already done :/ ). It's still not fixed and at the end of the day it's still running just perfect so I'd suggest that any of you with the same problem check the obvious things like bleeding, leaks, thermostat, flush etc and if that doesn't work start saving for another car because at this age it's not worth the money you'll put into it and you probably won't get it fixed lol. If you want the gauge to give you a correct reading pull the thermostat out and unplug the sensor, I run one in winter and pull it out in summer haha. I'd say the gauges must be dodgy in some of them which is a pain in the arse, it might be worth installing an after market gauge but just don't spend a fortune on a 17 year old car because this one is just one of those VS quirks that will forever be a mystery.

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Thanks for your Post.

"the gauge is just wrong."

So often the problem is the Gauge misreading. Once you're sure the problem is the Gauge, you can make it read correctly by adding a Resistor between the Gauge and the Sender.
Do this by confirming the Sender is showing the correct Resistance for the Engine's current Temperature.

Slowly increase the Resistance using a Potentiometer until the Needle is in the correct position ... http://www.jaycar.co...

Replace the potentiometer with a Resistor that matches the final value of the Potentiometer.
Crimp the Resistor into place with red Crimp Lugs, one for each end of the Resistor ... http://www.jaycar.co...

It would be nice to know what fails inside the Gauge.

On Old Holdens a Resistor burns out causing the Gauge to under-read ... http://holdenpaedia....

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T

My Shed

Holdenpaedia, they're the brakes Mate.

Omg, bought a vr commodore. Starts heating up when idling, fan dont turn on till temp at halfway. Have replaced the leaking wAter pump, changed thermostate, to then have a crack in radiator so replaced that to end up with a burst top hose. So replaced hose and took thermostate out. Keep yall posted.. Ill try sum of these tricks above, awesome info by the way...

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As fjwb and T said..

The temperature gauge in your dashboard is only a relative indication of heat.

On the VS at least, there are 2 temperature senders, 1 fairly accurate thermistor for actual temperatures - to kick in the thermo fan at low/high speeds and indicate engine too hot, and 1 ballpark thermistor for telling you things are hot/cold on the dash.

Different cars have different normal operating temperature displayed on the dash, what you think may be hot/cold could be nominal for that model.

In Spring/Summer it is quite normal for a VS to show half way on the temp guage when driving without aircon on in traffic, then get up to 3/4 or more, then come back down when the thermo kicks in around that point, whereas seeing that in a VR would make you more concerned.
When running the aircon, the thermo fan should periodically kick in at the low speed setting and keeps things cooler.

This behaviour is quite different to the VR and earlier Buick V6 based engine commodores, which have a different thermistor for the dash indicator, The thermistor in the VS has different impedance at different temps and is screwed into a different area on the front of the engine.

If you are concerned about how hot the engine is when the dash temp indicator is at a certain point, then you can use a temperature probe/cooking thermometer to make sure what the actual temperature is at that point and at what temperatures the thermo fan is actually running.

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Yep the thermo kicks in when the needle hits about 2mm under half way mark.. Whether the air con is on or not.. Theres nothing wrong with the car if the needle goes up to half way, as long as you hear that fan kick in she's all good..

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(Bubbling sound from overflow)

Hi i have a Vs Calais 97..
A few days ago i drove for at least an hour, parked the car and turned the engine off a couple mins later i heard bubbling sounds coming from the overflow, waited a few mins and opened the lid to the overflow and seen steam on the coolant which is half full.. Then when i checked my coolant in the radiator the next day whilst the engine was cold my coolant was spilling out! Unusual because the coolant usually sits about 2cm down and doesnt try spilling out when i take the cap off.. Meanwhile my car doesn't overheat the temp gauge only reaches half way in peak hour traffic.

Could this be a cracked head or blocked radiator??

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My wife's VR commodore overheated when stationary or in slow traffic but ok at speed above 30Km. It finally boiled over one hot day = NRMA called Serviceman said " YEP same old VR relay problem" swapped horn relay with fan relay = problem fixed.

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Hi,
Like almost everyone else my 94 VS Commodore is overheating in town but doesnt seem to be too much of a problem on the open road.
We have changed the radiator, radiator cap, water pump, thermostat & had the head gasket checked, which appeared to be fine.
Also the fan doesnt kick in until the gauge hits about 3/4. The other weird thing that I saw someone else mention is that when driving (especally long distances) it gets really hot down by my left foot.
Also the aircon is not working, (we assumed its due to be regassed) would this have anything to do with the engine overheating?
Any help you could give would be great. (I apologise if you have to repeat yourselves)
Cobie

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I have a 95 VS, and even in summer here in perth where we had 43 degree days for a week, my temperature needle only ever reached 1mm above the 1/4 mark. Everything is stock, nothing is new.

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I have replaced radiator, thermostat, top and bottom hoses,sender and coolant and even did a full flush... the commy still reads the incorrect reading on the dash... there are no leaks...
before this started the commy temp would rarely get past the third stroke now when driving or idling the gauge increases to 3/4 but i know its not getting hot because the thermo is working propetly and i can leave ny hand on the radiator cap after twenty mins of driving and not really hot... iam,at a loss at what the problem is can someone help me pkzzz...,my email is robert4650@outlook.com
cheers Rob.

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It sounds as though the Gauge Sender has failed or the Sender Wiring has shorted against Ground.

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T

My Shed

Holdenpaedia, they're the brakes Mate.

ive owned 5 vs commodores. I go through them a bit quicker then most people cause I enter them in burnout comps till they don't run no more and there cheap to buy so rather then waste time rebuilding them cause that's more expensive then just sourcing around for another one that's been well looked after. anyways providing that all your cooling system is working how it should, thermo,s, thermostat, no leaks, and all the rest of it that every one mentioned and repeated above, then its just your factory dash temp gauge. ever heard the expression of stretching the truth a bit, well that's all the temp gauge is doing. mine have all done it. we tested it out few times on my mates dyno machine. we purposely disconnected the cars thermo fan then i flogged the car on the dyno then let car idle and turned off dyno fan in front of the car that acts as a wind current the same as if the car was moving along a road at speed. anyways in doin this we got to see how much our un trust worthy factory dash temp gauge stretches the truth. after few miniutes the factory temp gauge was on the red and telling me it was over heating however my friend looking at the dyno dynastic machines reading was getting a figures that proved its temp was only really at 3 quarters 3/4.....VS FACTORY TEMP GAUGES STRETCH THE TRUTH....MY FREIND AND I HAVE REPEATED THIS TEST ON ALL MY 5 VS COMMY,S JUST OUT OF CURIOSITY ...SAME RESULT EACH TIME

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You need to get the first stage fan to kick in, two stages of fan kicking in at low which is at 1/2 and high at 3/4 I think it's your water temp sensor or your fan sensor!

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I think we are all wrong here... I used to have a brand new VS when I was younger. temperature never ever ever moved from a tiny bit above the first line... If it went anywhere near half way mark it was having issues... Now I decided to buy my self another VS commodore and I find it kind of a little too cold when cruising and little too hot while idling... I am sure an aftermarket MANUAL thermo fan switch would fix the getting too hot issue while idling. Not too sure about cause of her cooling down too much while sitting on 80 or 100kms. I am thinking that the thermostat is not operating properly for some reason... Also blocked cooling system... Finding it very annoying that all VS commodores seem to have the same issue... At the end of the day I am sort of happy that at least its not overheating... If someone has a 100% fix for this issue, please let me know... Also I had the SCANTOOL on it while driving it... And when it goes to cold its actually sitting on 87C which is the thermostat opening point I think. When it goes a little above half and kicks the fan in, so 0.5mm above half way on the temp gauge is around 105C...

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The PCM (powertrain control module) will not switch the engine cooling fan on until the water temperature reaches 110 degrees Celsius. If all is running well this temperature will not be reached hence the fan won't come on. Boiling point at 15PSI system pressure is approx 121 degrees Celcius so there's still a reasonable safety margin.

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[http://gallery.oldho...|My EH Holden Shed]

 Email Me

I have a vs wagon and since I've had it the temp once driving around sits at 2/3 once im held up in traffic the temp goes to half the fan kicks in and it drops back down , today after a 20min drive I get home and the radiator is boiling and fluid running down the drive . The overflow was empty so I filled it half way , I took it for a quick drive and the temp went sky high , I pulled over and the overflow was empty again and fluid spewing from underneath , could this be a cracked radiator ?

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Hy Guys

I have a VT Ute replaced thermostat, both coolant sensors, radiator cap, flushed system and added coolant and then found fans dont kick in, fans work ok ive checked relay it works and if you take the cover off and hold tab in fan comes on so it appears no earth feed to relay .

any ideas

Ray NZ

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Temp gauge doing some real wierd things. Going from stone cold to boiling hot and back to stone cold. took the thermostat cover off and the thermostat mech had bent over. Replaced it and all OK

I've also heard that the ecotec engines tended to leak a bit through the headgaskets from the cylinders into the water jacket. They all tend to do it to varying degrees. If too much, will cause overheating.

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just had the cylinder head gaskets replaced and the top end of engine rebuilt . some of the vaccume hoses were missing or damaged. it is the first of the supercharged engines L67 supercharged ecotec . was wondering if anyone had any info on the vaccume routing for this engine please

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I have a vs V8, just recently had a head service, cam and memtc chip, when u turn motor off coolant comes out of overflow. Have fitted new radiator, thermostat, water pump, radiator cap, still doing it ????? Any help would stomped going insane!

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Have they been put on correctly?

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pretty sure they are symmetrical on these…

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May have been the inlet manifold gasket I'm thinking of. Been a while but I'm sure there is a water gallery than can be inadvertently covered up.

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My vs had everything in the cooling system replaced, I mean EVERYTHING. Even did the sensors, the relay, hoses, clamps everything. It still would run too hot when stationary. Put in a thermofan bypass witch so I can switch it on whenever it gets too hot, just run a low watt wire direct from the battery and grounded it. Installed a small switch next to the steering wheel. It fixed that!!! Unfortunately I was still having to run it without a full thermostat ( I cut the guts out of it and left it in gutless) as it would still prevent it from getting cooled. Im sure this is an engineering fault or that its old. Finally I realised that the ecu or central processing unit (the computer) is probably worn out as it is almost 20 yrs old. It wasnt sending the signal to the sensors or relay to switch the fans in the first place. So I found one on ebay, completely refurbished from a sydney or melbourne company (cant remember which) it also had a stage 4 performance chip in it (just a small bonus for me) and under $150 inc postage!!! What an imprivement, I mean the thermo fan kicks in, but not until its at 2/3's which I still am not comfortable with so ive left in the bypass switch for summers. But it still does not like having in a full thermostat, but neither is the guts cut out of it any good for long either. My brother is an old school backyard mechanic from way back and he said to drill a few holes around the outside lip where it sits inside of a new thermostat which i will be doing as the water rushing through it will not cool it properly plus the water pump wears out very quickly!!!

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Thanks for the info.

It sounds like a cooling fan warning light might be a useful monitoring device for this type of problem.

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T

My Shed

Holdenpaedia, they're the brakes Mate.

what a load of garbage - engineering fault my a$$... hundreds of thousands of vs to vy commodores running around with stock cooling systems in perfect operating condition.

if you have to remove or modify the thermostat to achieve proper cooling you have a problem. are you also saying that if you run a thermostat in standard form it will wear out the water pump?? not knocking you for drilling holes in a thermostat as i do this on performance stuff i build (aids in bleeding and gives a ) but its not required on standard cars.

the fans do switch on fairly high, these things run hot on purpose for emissions reasons.

you have a problem with your vs, not every other vs has a problem!!

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When the old skool backyard mechanic from way back can't fix it, of course it has to be an engineering fault, just one that's popped up after close to 20 years of service.

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It does seem water pumps were and issue with the V6 in the Commodore and Buick http://repairpal.com...

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Regards Blue

Hi havn trouble with my aircon fan not kickn in with or without aircon on can anyone tel me how to bypass fan or wher to look for problem would b very much apreciated as its driving me insane.

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would it be just the front dash vent? My stato has a problem with the vent opening. I can drive for 5 kms with no air coming out then all of a sudden beautiful cold air gushes out!!!

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funny here how no one has managed to figure this out well people came close, right temperature gauge sender is the solution, right the symptoms are temperature rises up to 3/4 then as your driving cools down again but car never seems to overheat or seem to have a head gasket problem, IT THE TEMPERATURE GAUGE SENDER azs of 2015 the temperature gauge sender has one wire attached to it right next to the temperature sender, you will need a 13 MM tube socket to remove sender, then a little coolant will come out but with your new sender in hand put the new sender back in straight away, now the temperature sender is well i paid $12.59 at trade because im in the trade, however for most people only cost around $13-14 anyway, but be aware there is a V6 commodore engine that looks the same but there are a few different variations with different temperature senders ie..so you need to match up your engine code to the correct sender otherwise which i found out there is a short sender and a long sender if you put the wrong sender in your car will get hotter, anyway i just changed the sender unit on my car after the temp was going up to 3/4 while idling now all fixed temperature sits under halfway and the thermo fans now kick in properly like they should because if you temperature sender is not working properly it wont be sending the right signal to the fan relay, thus causing the vehicle to appear to overheat, now the bloke i bought my car from said(an old school bloke who hasnt heard of research on the internet tried telling me thats the way commodores are its normal yeah righto, im here to tell you its not and a simple fix, so thats all it is a $13 part and 5 minutes labour

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I notice a roaring noise coming from under the bonnet of my 2003 vy commodore when driving had a look and noticed the small cooling fan wasn't coming on -- any advice?

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I had the same issue with a VX & 5 played around with the relays under the bonnet & all I did was swap a couple of relays around & it fix it! I guess it must have been a bit crap on the conections !

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Cheers Shane

Email me
HOLDEN DOCTOR

I have just had the heater valve tap control(?)replaced in my VG commodore ute, now I hahe a problem getting hot when slow in traffic but cools down when cruising at 100klm, temp gauge runs quarter to just over half, red warning light comes on at a quarter stays on for 2-5 minutes then goes of comes back on again then goes off again about half & stays off ???

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Replaced relay ok atm will see after a week

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Ok after reading every single post and replacing every single possible part/component under the bonnet I've decided the last possible problem must be the computer. Its a 98 V6 series 3 ute, can anyone tell me if its a low computer or whatever they mean and where I can purchase one from cheers, ill post my outcome once I source one thanks.....

mattaldo@live.com.au

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I have the same problem of the fans kicking in to late. The holden mechanics said it was normal for my vs.so was he lying or being truthful? I don't know. All i know is that every other car i have ever driven have always run a hell of a lot cooler than this 95vs commodore.

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your temp sensor is rooted . The sensor that controls the fans not the one for the gauge. If its doing what what the cockhead above said is normal as in rises to 3/4 temp then the fans come on. The last 2 dungers I found that on also got new water pumps radiators a couple of serpentine belt pulleys some hoses and a thermostat.

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Hi all ,had over heating issues with my VX and have always done all my own work on the car,,tried all the obvious things,bleed the air out of it, heat sensor relays,tested fans,replaced cap,in the end got a mobile mech in to go over it .pressure test it etc..still no joy. new radiator..still playing up...considered replacing the pump..when I hear a hissing noise under the bonnet !!?? the little plastic heater switch is leaking possibly had a very fine crack in it for a long while..the replacement of this solved my problems been running fine since.and the only other thing I can suggest is if you have not been running coolant in your vehicle you can sometimes develop a leak on a seal on the back of the motor its a prick of a job to replace or about 2.5K to have a mech do it..a cheap fix can be some radiator stop leak ..your call..hope this helps some one

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My vs gets to half way while I'm stationery for couple minutes and fans kick on and off and engine smells warm and then my revs get stuck high and I almost get the run away engine thing that deisels do even when driving off from stationary and the revs won't drop till it cools again driving any one know how to fix this.drives fine otherwise.

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worth checking that you don't have any air locks in the cooling system - particularly on the V6..has the coolant been changed recently?...Air locks can lead to erratic temperature fluctuations...the ECU may be altering engine speed in an attempt to reduce temperature...after checking air locks and not resolving problem - check/change the thermostat...

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Andrew

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