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VS2 randomly cuts out completely - no power steering, no power brakes at 70kph down the highway!

Everyone under the sun's had a look at this with no result. It's pretty rare (once in a few months or so) and not repeatable - but VERY dangerous.

Must be some electrical fault since the engine completely cuts out - no coughing. Last time it happened, I was doing about 70 kph, constant throttle, flat road, no transmission shift, no change to any driving conditions. And the next second, the engine was dead. Managed to force it over to the side of the road with the minimal braking available. Very scary. And it wouldn't restart for several minutes. Didn't sound like there was even a spark.

Could it be the coils? All three of them dying simultaneously somehow? Computer dying?

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crank angle sensor. had exactly the same thing on my old VS, down the eton range at the time. very hectic. the trick is, tip some water over the sensor to cool it down when this happens. the sensor is located behind the harmonic balancer. costs about 200 bucks to get it changed(by someone who has all the tools and the box to verify the fault), or an hours labour to do it yourself.

Drive it like you stole it!!

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It's all good

for sure its crank angle sensor

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fcmum

i just got a new crank angle sensor in the vn, got the sensor for $51 as i work for holden lol.

cheers tim

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Funny this should pop up; we had the same problem 3 or 4 weeks back with our VN Wagon.
Started off when we turned hard left, it would just cut out without warning, then started doing it even when we were driving straight...
If you pull over and try starting it straight away it just cranks over and over, but sit back, wait 30seconds to a minute, hit the key and away you go!

We took it to our local mechanic who tried slugging us $2,000 to fix it, reckoned the heads needed to come off, recon them and the manifold and we would be right... Yeahhh right!

So we go next door to a National Tune up Company, Diagnosis cost $90.00, told us we would need to remove the inlet Manifold and recon it, then replace our entire exhaust...
Funny that they just happened to work in with our mechanic and put it on our account there... PASS!
But then this National Tune up guy jumps up with our fix, it was the Fuel Pump!
Couldn't take the car as they needed to remove the tank to fit up a new Pump... Ok fair enough...
Next day, $240.00 up front for them and another $335.00 whacked on our mechanics account, seemed to fix it fine, for a couple of days, then it cut out again...

So after no satisfaction with these two coniving mongrels who still insisted we needed to spend 2grand to make the problem go away, off we go to our OLD Mechanic, he never worked on Accounts, so on the account we are normally broke, we stuck with the mechanic who offered us an account, mistake #1...
So, $30 for a Diagnosis, a damned side cheaper than the other National Chain of Tune up artists, then it comes up with I think Codes 42 & 24 on the Diagnosis, problem was there was two and a half pages of suggested fixes, so it was one thing at a time...
He offered to remove and clean out Air Flow Meter and Idle Winder Motor that is inside the AFM and controls the Idle, well for $60.00 THAT made the world of difference to the drivability of the old VN, turned it into a new car!
I loved it, so did the wife till that afternoon when it cut out again...

So I pulled the Coil Pack off of my VS Commodore donor for my Hotrod, plugged it into the VN, fired up beautifully!
Spent the entire next day making a bracket, test mounted it, painted it flat black, mounted it up, plugged it in, went to start it, NO GO!
Spent the entire next day trying to work out what was wrong?
At 8pm I walked inside and the missus suggests I just put the VN Coil Pack back on, so the next day I cleaned it up, re-fitted it, plugged it all back in, hit the bloody key and it fired up straight away!

So we drive it for the next 10 days or so, by this time the Wife is mega cheesed and wants to sell the VN, I loved that VN and in the next 10days or so it never so much as looked like letting us down regardless of what we tried to see if it would stop on us.
A mate lines up the sale of the VN Wagon to a young friend of his for $1300.00.
She took it for a drive, a long drive, then a drive around the estates, then a long drive back home, faultless, she was in love with it so hands over the $1300!
The next day I get a phone call, she is stuck on the side of the bloody road! Arrrgghhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!

By this time my head is spinning, we had spent a small fortune trying to fix this bloody thing, so tell the mate to go out and look at the damned thing before I turn up and burn it, he unplugs the fuel rail or something and tells me that there is no fuel pressure?
Bullshyte I say, so pull out the receipt from our friendly National chain of Tune-up Artists, quote word for word, "Remove Tank, Remove Pump Bolts, Remove Fuel Lines and associated parts so as to remove the Tank from the Car, Remove Fuel Pump, Empty & Clean Fuel Tank, Replace Filters and FIT with NEW Fuel Pump, Refit all associated parts and Test as Necessary"...
HE is adamant it has NO Fuel pressure, so we get into a slinging match, in the end I tell him to stick it all where the sun don't shine and come and get the damned receipt and go front the Wally’s at the Tune-up place!

A half hour or so passes, he rings me back, asks if we had a new Pump fitted, again I say yes and quote the Receipt to him, he then tells me how at his Dad's workshop, his old Man finally talked him into jacking the Wagon up and check the Fuel Pump, he climbs under, looks at the Pump, it has years of gunk, oil etc plastered all over it and the Fuel Tank, the lines and wiring, all he could see that was new was a shiny silver Fuel Filter!
His Father turns the Key, no Fuel Pump Buzz, he brushes against the wiring and the bloody ORIGINAL Fuel Pumps comes to life, looks at the plug, twiddles it and the Pump stops, just touches it again and the Pump fires up again!
HE cut out the PLUG and hard wired it, back taped everything and so far so good, the car has been faultless...

Trust me, the saga was drawn out a lot longer than my whine here, but sometimes it can be the most simple of things that let you down, trust me that I know damned well!
I have told them to go back and shove the receipt fair and square up the coits of those thieving basturds who will NEVER again as long as my ass points towards the ground EVER get another second of our time again, EVER!
We now have a 1998 VT V6 Super Charged Sedan...
I sit and look at that Sedan with great trepidation, I am wary, but *Touch Wood* we will never go down that path again...

We never made it to the Crank Angle sensor, but in all these replies here, I hope there is some food for thought here for you mate ;{D

Good Luck and keep us posted ok? ;{P

Cheers, Pig (OINKS308)

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oinks308

Have you had your mechanic plug into the car and check the fault codes? I'd do that before going and replacing any expensive parts. That's the one advantage of owning a modern car.

BLAT Racing!

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Brute force and ignorance applied scientifically

Thanks for the hints - I'll get Holden to take a look at the crank angle sensor (and the distributor bearing). Where is this "harmonic balancer"? Sounds like some sort of zen ying/yang thing. "Ohmmmm!"

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Harmonic balancer is the round rubber centred thing at the bottom of the engine, the crank angle sensor is just above this to the right behind the pulley. took me and a mate bout 30 minutes to change.

Take the thermo fan off- 4 screws. de-tension the pulley, remove pulley, get a big ****ing bar with a 30 odd mm strong socket(cant remember, prob the biggest you do or dont have). Have someone hop in the car, put in neutral, hard on the brake, turn the balancer bolt till it comes out, then hope you can lever the balancer off. Of not get a puller of a mechanic mate.. sensor is a peice of ****, two bolts, then assemble new sensor the same as the old, note the clearance, bolt it it. reverse process to re install. Dont let the CAS foul on the balancer or you will know about it.

Then have a cup of tea.

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My VN commonhore is giving me the sh**s it runs well then when it warms up it breaks down big time coughing splutering, back firing, and no power some times it cuts out the engine fault light came on for about 4 hours.
Has anyone experienced this or does any one know the cause please.
I have replaced the leads could contanimated fuel cause this and about 1 months ago i replaced the ballancer.
Bruno

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There are a few common causes for this malady Bruno.

Extract your fault codes from the computer and then you'll have a place to start looking.

Cheers...Dave

"Search more, Post less"

>E-mail Me
Qute's Shed

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Cheers...Dave

"Search more, Post less"

>E-mail Me
Qute's Shed

My VS, auto, has been stalling for quite awhile, usually when it gets hot and im goin under 50kph. A friend told me about this paper clip test, where u stick each end of a paper clip in the 5th and 6th terminals of where u plug the tech 1 computer diagnostic thing into the car (directly under the steering wheel) and turn the ignition to the on position, dont crank. Then the engine light will flash in a code. type "VS Commodore fault codes" in google to find the codes.
Mine came up with the Crank Angle Sensor, i told my mech, but he just changed the fuel pump. Its still stalling!! Il take it back and i bet my life its the damn crank angle sensor!!!!

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the problem on my car was a dodgy electrical plug. wriggle them all and then try and start it. you might find one that causing it.

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I've got a similar problem with my vr s2 commy. So far I have replaced the crank angle sensor twice, the dfi module twice, the coil pack, the alternator, and the oil pressure sensor. It just broke down again about 30 minutes ago :(
It wouldn't restart, so I was pushing it accross 2 lanes of traffic :( and turned the key and it fired up.
I managed to make it to work, but my confidence is obviously low for next time :(
I read the post above about the electrical wiring, but it what general area are you 'wriggling' the wires ??
Any other suggestions ?? I might just start replacing random parts next to solve this bloody problem.

Cheers.

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I have a VT Sr2 Acclaim with just over 200k on the clock & had a couple scary incidents with the engine cutting out randomly & dropping power for a split second.Worst two were doing 100km/h on the monash in Melbourne,outside 4th lane and engine starts dropping/misfiring.Second was rounding the big left hand sweeper coming onto onto the Bolte Bridge surrounded by Mack trucks @ night & the bastard engine starts dropping the sparks again.Then coming around the corner of a major intersection & accelerating around a slower car...total engine shut down @ 70km/h....no brakes & no steering!!!

Thing is for most of this year the car has not been starting well.Replaced alternator,plugs,battery...about to do the starter motor @ $300 when told by a workmates to try replacing the coil pack & crank angle sensor as his VT was doing the exact same thing.

Having read the above post about left hand corners...i'm convinced,crank angle sensor.I love my Holden Commie's but seriously it's cost me almost as much money to fix as what it cost to buy!!! Thinking of just flogging it off to some teen join head & buying a brand new VE SS in red with racing stripes...he he ;)

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I just came back to this forum after having lost it for a while.

The crank angle sensor replacement (

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Bruno maybe coil pack, my vs was doing same thing,

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Sometimes my cars engine switches off and my steering and brake goes hard, I have to eait a few min for it to start again. I checked my fluids it's ok but it wouldn't start, my fad is a fitter and Turner and said the reverse switch under the auto gearbox needs adjusting. On park for auto the switch gets triggered if not played properly, that switch can switch off the engine. Getting a mechanic to fix it will stop it. Cleaning the leads at the battery helps with good acceleration. The problem with vs commodores is the codes too. My vs motor lasted for 21 yrs then I got a recon vt motor put in. This is the trouble that some motors need the reverse switch under the auto gear box to be checked

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