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Front wheel bearing seal?

I've just replaced front wheel bearings on my WB. There was a slight amount of play in the bearings on one wheel and while the bearings looked okay when I pulled them out (no discolouration or scoring, pitting etc) I thought it'd be cheap insurance to just replace them. Even with the new bearings, it has exactly the same amount of play... if I tighten the castellated nut to the next opening for the split pin, it just seems too tight, as in the torque applied on the nut increases a fair bit. I'm familiar with trailer bearings and the amount of play is acceptable but is it on a WB?
Anyway, I noticed a LOT of old dried grease on the back of the stub axle, wondering if that's just 34 years of crud or has the inner bearing seal been leaking grease out?
I could not get the bearing seal to seat in the disc hub, tried for ages. Ended up having it just sit there (it is up tight against the hub - not flapping around!). Took it for a drive and no leaking grease yet, but it doesn't look right to me. The seal I replaced was exactly the same design.
Is the soft rubber seal the right one for a WB? Should it have a solid (brass?) outer like the one below, that would tap in?

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neverchanged then in a WB but pretty much all holdens run the same wheel bearing, i have seen the rubber style seals on a lot of them, and if im not mistaken even the VN commodore hubs on my FX have them as well. as for the play adjust them the same as for a trailer, i usually just use the weight of a 12" shifter to tighten the castle nut then go to the next tightest hole for split pin.

*****Late Edit******
try swapping castle nuts from side to side as depending how the tread is cut it can make a difference

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"I've just replaced front wheel bearings on my WB. There was a slight amount of play in the bearings"

That play is desirable.

"on one wheel and while the bearings looked okay when I pulled them out (no discolouration or scoring, pitting etc) I thought it'd be cheap insurance to just replace them."

I would too.

"Even with the new bearings, it has exactly the same amount of play..."

Desirable.

"if I tighten the castellated nut to the next opening for the split pin, it just seems too tight, as in the torque applied on the nut increases a fair bit. I'm familiar with trailer bearings and the amount of play is acceptable but is it on a WB?"

Yes. You tighten the castellated nut lightly, then back the nut off so that it is slightly loose when the split pin is fitted. It allows for thermal expansion. The nut should not be tight.

"Anyway, I noticed a LOT of old dried grease on the back of the stub axle, wondering if that's just 34 years of crud or has the inner bearing seal been leaking grease out?"

That can be a consequence over greasing. Some people fill the hub centre with grease. The excess grease centrifuges all over the brakes which is undesirable.

The proper way to grease the bearings is by rolling them in your hand.

Sometimes you see cars with streak lines on the tyres. That's when the hub has been filled with grease.

""I could not get the bearing seal to seat in the disc hub, tried for ages. Ended up having it just sit there (it is up tight against the hub - not flapping around!). Took it for a drive and no leaking grease yet, but it doesn't look right to me. The seal I replaced was exactly the same design."

Make sure the spindle is clean. A new seal can run in a slightly different location causing excessive drag.

"Is the soft rubber seal the right one for a WB? Should it have a solid (brass?) outer like the one below, that would tap in?"

They often have a screw thread that makes then twist into the hub in the forward direction.

Further info here ...

http://holdenpaedia....

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T

My Shed

Holdenpaedia, they're the brakes Mate.

Thanks T. The dust cap and the hub centre was packed with grease when I took them off. I cleaned them up and did only put a smear of grease in the hub centre, I couldn't see the point of whacking in so much grease where it wasn't needed. I've been meaning to get one of those bearing grease packers but for now it's the old blob of fresh HTB grease on your palm, pressing the bearing on it until grease oozes out all around. The spindle or stub axle actually had corrosion on the centre, the surfaces where the bearings sit were dulled but not scored or otherwise damaged. I have replaced bearings on fairly fresh trailers, so the corrosion was new to me. I sanded the corroded section with 2000 grit wet and dry, cleaned it all up and put on a light smear of grease on the spindle.
The bearing seal didn't have a thead or anything, just a rib around the outer diameter. As I said, I couldn't get the seal to sit in the hub like trailer bearing seals do, but it seems maybe this is how the WB's is supposed to fit.
I won't get to replace the bearings on the other front wheel until tomorrow, but I did check when the front was off the deck yesterday and that wheel has no play. Hmmm...
Anyway, thank-you fx48 and T for replying. Replacing wheel bearings isn't a big deal but I didn't want to think that I'd stuffed up the adjustment or the seal. No fun trying to deal with buggered wheel bearings on the side of the road...

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