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engine balancing is it really necessary?

After buying a "overhauled engine" which I am now getting rebuilt (bloody aircraft engineers, i'll never fly again)the shop whichj is doing block ,crank and pistons , has suggested I get it all balanced, I'm not inclined to get it done to save the $300 they charge for the service, the shop says it would help with longevity of motor, i'm only after a daily drive for a work ute. so is it really necessary?

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IMHO very much so. Even in a daily driver.
As you don't plan on pulling the thing down and rebuilding it again soon. Anything that adds to the life of the motor is a good thing.
Cheers.

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Campbells Shed
Postcode 3123.

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Campbells Shed
Postcode 3147.

If your building a daily driver than this engine will be used "daily" and cover a lot of k's. Therefore financially it makes sense to get it balanced because the extra longevity might turn into many years of extra service saving you thousands. If it was only a sunday driver than maybe not bother.

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Considering the cost of a rebuild what is another $300 if it adds many years to the life of the motor :)

by the way how much is a rebuild costing you? I was considering getting mine done in a couple years.

Shed

WANTED

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New cam , pistons,bearings (all), bore / hone block,new cam bearings, gasket kit, grind / lamish crank, new water pump, new dizzy, new carby, lifters, valves and guides, reseat, new valve springs,new cam chain and timing gear, ring gear, grind fly wheel,acid bath and assemble to short motor by shop.
about $3800 inc parts,
PLUS
clean and service radiator, new master cylinder, new ball joints, new exhaust, new wheel bearings allround, new diff bearings,new universals,new brake pads.
and its all got a bit out of hand,

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yes get it done i had my 308 done around the 90-91 way cost me $350 i spent $3000 on the motor all up and even now the motor can do with a freshening up it still sounds and runs good! pity the body's is stuffed now should sell it or strip it
ht prem sag 4 speed camaro diff elc wins gts dash and front end and lots of rust
cheers

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Scummy,

Email me at hgp1970 AT optusnet dot com dot au

It's important.

thanks.

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oo

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If they only want $300 to balance your engine, I would be very wary.

Shane.

[http://www.hudsonper...|HPEngines]

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thanks for balanacing answers, you are a great bunch, very helpful.
Next Question
when I get it all together, how many revs, and how long to hardface the cam shaft ? and what type of oil,
when I did my bike, the instructions said NOT to use synthetic oil, do the same rules apply for a crow cam ?

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I've always just started the motor and held it at a steady 2000rpm for 20 minutes.
If running dual valve springs. I remove the inners for the break in.
Make sure the cam is coated in assembly lube.
Don't use synthetic oil.
And be sure that the carb has fuel up, the timing is all sweet, etc. So it starts first crack.
Cheers.

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Campbells Shed
Postcode 3123.

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Campbells Shed
Postcode 3147.

It may be a good idea to remove the spark plugs and crank the engine to ensure you have oil pressure. If its a holden v8 then this is critical. These motors are notoriously hard to prime the oil pump. Once you have oil pressure replace the spark plugs and start it and run as campbell suggests. After twenty minutes or so give everything a quick check. I usually change the oil also to a top quality mineral oil. I use Penrite but I'm sure there is a different opinion about what is the best oil. I'm not getting involved in that argument. I usually also pull the sparkplugs and do a quick comparison of them, just ensuring they all look the same. [http://gallery.oldho...|My EH Holden Shed]
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Thanks guys, great reading, thanks for all the info, the old wb will be the roughest looking new ute about.

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I did up a "Running In" new motor page in Holdenpaedia which should answer most of your questions.

Cheers...Dave

"Search more, Post less"

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Cheers...Dave

"Search more, Post less"

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Qute's Shed

Hi OldWBute!

I dunno much about motor rebuilds, but I do think that for $300 they'd be offering a 'static balance' only, not a 'dynamic balance'.
You may be familiar with those terms, but in case they still seem a bit ambiguous, I'll give my limited recollection of the distinction....

Basically, the former (and lesser of the two options) is when a swag of parts are individually balanced by weight before any assembly. That is conrod-to-conrod, piston-to-piston, etc. I'm told that it sure helps with engine smoothness and longevity, but isn't as effective or thorough a job as the latter.
The second option requires some sort of assessement or measurement of the imbalances in certain engine components whilst in operation. Then possibly MORE engine parts are individually machined by weight, balance or whatever. To be honest, I can't even guess how the imbalances are physically determined, but I do know the whole process to be more effective, thus more work, thus more expensive.

I'm sure HPE Shane or other clued-up members can further clarify this bizzo. In fact, I'd like to know any other differences between (and benefits of) these two versions of 'balancing' compared with 'blueprinting'.

Good luck!

HKing of Los Bris-geles.

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'i'm definately shore that guage wont work with my tuff bango diff and Opal sydcrome box,if it goes though my grill,and I put the breaks on I realize its better with the glimer belt & tunned holly and Ederbrock duel feul webber gaurds, wiht etc primmer.'

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